There are a number of other modifications for the Autococker:
- .45 Grip-Frame
.45 compatible grip frames for the Autococker are made by several companies now. The '45 frames are slightly fatter and at a different angle from the stock WGP frames. Many people feel that this improves their grip and aim. Additionally, the '45 frames are machined to slightly tighter tolerances than the stock frame and have holes for a trigger-stop and set-screw already drilled and tapped. Because of this, less work is required for a trigger-job and triggers tend to come out smoother. For a while, the best .45 frame was made by P&P. It has a second trigger guide screw at the back that does the same thing as bending up the back of the trigger (see the Trigger-Job section). Every frame manufacturer has ripped off that design, so pretty much any frame will do these days.
It is important to note that there are now two different types of frames for the Autococker: pre-1998, and post-1998. In 1998, WGP changed their trigger plates and frames to thicken the trigger plate below the ramp that activates the sear. The result is that new trigger plates do not fit in pre-98 frames and vice versa. Make absolutely sure to specify what year Autococker you have before purchasing an aftermarket Autococker trigger frame.
One other unfortunate effect is that in the post-98 frames there is no longer room for the traditional trigger stop screw. Some companies (ANS and Bullseye come immediately to mind) have gone in the other direction, placing a stop-screw in front of the trigger in the top of the grip frame to stop out forward movement of the trigger rather than back. This works, but is not as convenient as you have to remove the trigger frame entirely to adjust it and it does not come as stock equipment on most trigger frames.
As a side-note, both RAGE Sports and P&P Paintball sell both pre- and post-98 trigger plates and .45 frames so it is easy to get old-style components if you want an old-style trigger stop.
- Ball detente/Ball jock
This is some thing (bent wire, spring-loaded ball bearing, etc.) that juts into the breech from the side and prevents double feeds. There are many different styles, and they all work equally effectively. I highly recommend this modification on any Autococker. It is essential to reduce chopped balls. My personal favorite is the wire-nubbin type detente as it offers a blow-back relief in addition to being extremely reliable. The Cooper-T ball-bearing type detente has a tendency to jam up after a period of time, but is easily replaced. The Pro-Team (spring loaded swing arm - found on the Gun F/X Autococker) is also effective but somewhat expensive compared to other options.
The Cooper-T ball-bearing style detent has now become standard stock equipment on virtually all Autocockers. Consequently, you have to look long and hard to find a 'cocker with any other kind of detent. The only exceptions are a very few top-end, very expensive custom Autocockers that are still available with wire-nubbin (Evolution and Bad Boyz Toyz Autocockers) and Pro-Team (Gun F/X Micrococker) detent.
This accessory now standard on all Autocockers is required for tournament play. It's a part that bolts onto the back of the 'gun and prevents you from pressing the back of the cocking rod when firing, thus preventing you from shooting hot.
- Custom Grips
While the Minicocker's stock molded grips are decent, the stock WGP grips that come on the Autococker are pretty rotten. There are many companies making custom grips that fit the WGP frame which improve comfort and grip. Smart Parts grips are probably the most popular since they can be had in a variety of colors to match the rest of your gear. Hogue has also become the de-facto standard on .45 frames and are also very comfortable, though perhaps not as stylish as the Smart Parts wood grips.
- Cut block and rod
The block at the back of the gun is cut and bored out to lower its weight, and the rod is cut accordingly to allow the gun to still function. The effect of this is to reduce the total mass that the ram has to move, increasing the speed and efficiency of the system. These are now stock equipment on Autocockers. You can get even smaller blocks, but I am not convinced that they really accomplish much more than to make your 'gun look different.
- Cut shroud
On older Autocockers, the shroud did not come back over the vertical gas connector (this has been corrected in '97 and newer 'cockers). Cutting it back on the bottom to slide back around the vertical adapter and cutting a hole in the front allows the finger screw adjuster for a Rock regulator to come through, allowing adjustment without removing the shroud.
- Nelson Hammer/Spring kit (stock since 1999)
Many people considered this an essential upgrade for the Autococker. Now it's stock equipment on all Autocockers since 1999. This kit replaces the valve spring, hammer, and main spring with lighter equivalents. The result of using these is a lower required operating pressure for the gun, slightly increased efficiency, and better shot-to-shot velocity consistency. It's installation should always be accompanied by the drilling of an external sear adjustment hole (this hole has been on the stock 'gun since the '98 Autococker). There are many different companies making these now, and they're all pretty much the same. A few do make ones that can be adjusted without removing the cocking rod. The best, IMHO, is the Rex kit from Belsales/Smart Parts.
- Shocktech Cocking Rods
You´d think the Autocockers cocking rod was just about right the way it is. ItÕs a knob with a rod, what´s the big deal, right? Wrong. Anyone who shoots an Autococker knows the frustrations that the cocking rod can cause. If it backs out your ´gun can stop cocking correctly. If you screw it in too tight to keep it from vibrating loose you need pliers or vice-grips to get it back out to adjust velocity. If the knob isn´t on tight, using that wrench just might unscrew the knob rather than the whole rod. Enter Shocktech with the first truly perfect cocking rod for the Autococker. The Shocktech rod comes with the rod, a knob, and a bumper (don´t laugh - most don´t include a proper bumper). The magic is all in the knob. The knob has a hole drilled and tapped in the side for a locking screw. Loosen this screw to shorten or lengthen the rod, then tighten it down to lock the knob in place on the rod. To make things even better, the back of the knob has an allen screw fixed in place. The allen screw takes the same size allen wrench that you use to adjust the Autococker´s velocity. When you want to adjust your velocity just stick the wrench into the back of the rod and use that to unscrew it - no more pliers needed. When you´re done adjusting the velocity, use the same wrench to tighten the rod back down so it wonÕt back out. The fashion-conscious will be happy to hear that the Shocktech cocking rod comes in a variety of colors to match your paintgun. It´s an inexpensive, genuine improvement over the stock part.
- Twist-lock system
This is an addition to the cut block mentioned above wherein a knob is put through the block that, with a twist, releases the bolt. This eliminates the pin entirely. In Bad Boyz Toyz twist-lock systems, a notch is also cut into the top of the block and a small screw is put into the top of the bolt that fits the notch when the bolt is inserted, making it impossible to put in upside-down. As a whole, this system is much faster and simpler than stock. This system is so simple and brilliant that W'Orr games should be ashamed that they didn't think of it first and incorporate it into the stock gun. Bad Boyz Toyz used to be the only place offering this for a long while, but DYE now offers it on an aftermarket block as well.
- Valve Chamber Expander
The Mitey Max air reservoir from AKA Performance Paintball was the first one of these made for the Autococker. Since then, other companies (ANS, Taso, Shocktech, etc.) have copied the idea and begun offering their own. It's an empty chamber that screws in place of your front block screw and enlarges the volume of ready, regulated air for your valve to draw from. They only appear to provide good results with high-flow, low pressure valves like the Tornado. For most people it's a total waste of money. If you really must have one, don't waste your money; buy the cheapest one out there. They're all the same. The only one that offers any advantage is the Shocktech chamber which has a couple neat innovations that others don't.