Where am I?
Wutz Noo?
Articles & Infosheets
See my stuff
Stuff 4 Sale

Angry 4-way
Smart Parts
Mailing Address: PO Box 3200, Latrobe, PA 15650-5000
Delivery Address: Loyalhanna Business Complex, 100 Station Street, Loyalhanna, PA 15661
Phone: 724-539-2660
Fax: 724-539-2298

Palmers Pursuit Shop
3951 Development Drive #3
Sacramento, CA 95834
(916) 923-9676
E-mail Glenn Palmer

Phone: (707) 571-1077

Bad Boyz Toyz
17913 S. Torrence Avenue
Lansing, IL 60438
Phone: (708) 418-8888
Fax: (708) 418-8890

Ravi's Paintball Place

Paintball Games International Shorts for "Dope": June

LAPCO barrel adapters

Switching paintguns? Can’t find the barrel you want for your ’gun? Paint rolling out the end of your barrel? LAPCO has the solution for you. LAPCO’s barrel adapters allow you to put either an Autococker or Spyder barrel on just about any paintgun you might own. Since just about every barrel in the world is made for these two paintguns you should be well covered. The barrel adapters are made from aluminum with black hardcoat and come with a 0.685" ID. This ensures that you can use them with just about any barrel since most barrels are larger than 0.685". This also ensures that you get a good tight fit at the start of your barrel, sometimes resulting in improved efficiency. These may be too tight for some of the very large paints out there (beware Nelson shooters!), but most paints can negotiate the 1" or so of tight-bore length with little or no difficulty.

You’ll notice that there are Autococker to Autococker adapters as well. These are called barrel sizers and are used if your paint is way too small for your barrel. They come in 0.685" (ideal for most small paints), and 0.683" and 0.680" (only for tiny tournament paints like Evil and Diablo Hellfire). These will prevent paint roll-out and can improve efficiency markedly if you’ve always used a loose-bore barrel.

LAPCO barrel adapters are available in many combinations. You can put Autococker barrels on the Angel, Shocker, Spyder, VM-68, Tippman 98, and soon Indian Creek ’guns (including the new Bushmaster 2000). You can put Spyder barrels on the Titan, Mirage, Combat, Rapter, F1 Illustrator, Stingray, Autococker, Tippman 98, and Indian Creek ’guns (including the new Bushmaster 2000).

A trio of Autococker 3-way replacements

Belsales’ Angry

A little while back, Keith Belsale apparently tired of matching 3-way valve parts for his custom Evolution and Predator Autocockers. To simplify his life, he built his own 3-way which he called the "Angry", presumably to describe the emotions it was predicted to elicit from Budd Orr. If such anger ever did manifest, you’d never guess. The Angry has become stock equipment on ’99 STO Autocockers.

The Angry is a one-piece, short-throw brass valve, not dissimilar from other aftermarket one-piece 3-ways. As an aftermarket part (available from Smart Parts in the US) the Angry does not come with the valve piston. You need to switch it over from your stock valve. I consider this to be a less-than-ideal situation since it can be difficult to find a piston that fits smoothly (I had to try three different ones before I found one that wasn’t too tight). It’s worth the effort, though. Once you get a good fit, the valve works extremely well. When I owned an Evolution, it never leaked, was superbly smooth, and switched over a very short travel length.

KAPP 3-way

KAPP’s 3-way is an aluminum one-piece, short-throw valve not unlike the Angry and hoards of other aftermarket valves on the market. Unlike the Angry, it does include a valve piston that is very nicely fitted. KAPP sent me five valves in five different colors and all were identically smooth and leak-free. That’s one nice thing there. Aftermarket 3-ways are notorious for leaking. I have found KAPP’s valves not to leak at all. As with the Angry, it is also a short-throw valve, which is to say that it switches over a shorter travel distance than the stock valve (you don’t need to pull the trigger as far to switch the valve).

KAPP’s valve has a couple of nice extra features. First, like most KAPP aluminum products, they are available in chrome and a variety of colors. Second, a small screw in the front end of the valve acts as a nice extra safety feature to keep the piston from shooting out the end if it ever comes loose (I know it never happens, but that’s why it’s there). The cool thing is that KAPP will soon be offering a feature that allows you to replace that screw with a small nipple and hose to route the vented gas up to your feeder elbow, giving you a gas-assist feed not unlike what Smart Parts offers on some Shockers.

Palmer’s QuickSwitch

Sometimes I wonder if Glenn Palmer does things differently from everyone else in the world just because he likes to be contrary. Unlike every other aftermarket 3-way valve replacement in the world (all of which are simpler one-piece affairs), the Palmer QuickSwitch doubles both the number of parts and O-rings found in the stock valve. Essentially, Palmer has taken the components for the valve in his Blazer semi-auto and housed them in a brass sleeve which fits the front-block of an Autococker. The result is possibly the single best 4-way valve available for the Autococker today.

That’s right, four-way valve. Despite Budd Orr’s naming his valve a "3-way", Glenn Palmer prefers to refer to it by the nomenclature used in the pneumatics industry where you count the number of gas-paths; two outlets and two exhausts make four ways.

The QuickSwitch has a number of significant advantages, and one big knock. Though it is a short-throw valve, the nipples on the outside of the valve are spaced at a stock distance apart, so hoses are much easier to get on and off without crowding the hose clamps. The valve’s operation itself is extremely smooth: as smooth as any other valve I’ve ever tried. Usually, smoothness like this comes with the penalty of being more leak-prone. Not true with the QuickSwitch, which very well be the most leak-proof and reliable valve as a result of it’s very different design. Additionally, most 3-ways start to hiss (leak) as you approach the point where they are about to switch. The QuickSwitch, on the other hand, goes from completely sealed to completely switched over an absurdly short distance without even so much as a hint of a leak. The only disadvantage is that it costs 2-3 times as much as other very good aftermarket valves. If you want the absolute shortest possible Autococker trigger pull, this is the valve you want to use. If not, you’ll likely find the cost to be prohibitive.

KAPP Angel Vertical ASAs

Yes, all Angels come with WDP’s own regulator and that’s all well and good for all you losers who are willing to shoot stock equipment. All the fashionable players will be looking to toss out the perfectly good WDP reg and replace it with an aftermarket alternative. Sadly, the Angel’s stock vertical ASA has non-standard threads.

KAPP has your solution. Their standard bottle-thread vertical ASA for the Angel offers a few nice advantages over other competitors in this segment. First, the KAPP vertical is a bit thicker and stronger than other aftermarket verticals. I wouldn’t have thought this was an issue if I hadn’t seen a good friend of mine snap his vertical clean off his Angel when he crashed a bunker. Second, KAPP’s verticals have the tube that leads back to the grip frame already locked in place. Anyone who’s tried installing one him/herself knows what a royal pain it can be to install without leaking. Third, it has a gas tap in front for a gauge. The side may be more traditional, but doesn’t look half as cool as a Micro-Gauge sticking out front. Finally, and as always, KAPP’s Angel verticals are available in all the popular limited Angel colors.

KAPP Autococker Beavertail

Finally! A beavertail that works! As beavertails have become mandatory equipment for Autocockers, it seems that fewer and fewer people know why. The point of a beavertail is to keep the player from shooting hot by pressing the back of the cocking rod. Preventing you from being smacked in the face is an incidental benefit. It seems that most ’tails don’t do the job too well. Even the stock Autococker beavertail allows you more than enough space to get a finger or thumb between the cocking rod and beavertail. KAPP has finally brought to market an offering that is both stylish and functional.

The KAPP beavertail is smoothly curved and stylish to make you look good, cut down to avoid the back-block, cut wide to fit .45 frames, and cut short to keep you from shooting hot. The one I was sent was anodized black, but they’re also available in KAPP’s gorgeous chrome finish.

KAPP stainless steel Autococker parts

Velocity screw

Are you a frivolous spender? If so, this one’s for you. This velocity adjusting screw is exactly the same as the brass screw in the back of ’98 and newer stock Autocockers, except for the fact that it’s made of stainless steel. No, you can’t really see it (it’s hidden by the back-block). No, it doesn’t perform any better than the stock one. But people buy it. Go figure. Only for people who absolutely can’t bear to have anything stock on their ’guns.

Pro-Series Exhaust Valve

This replacement for the stock valve stem and seal drops right into the stock valve guide. Like turbo valve modifications of old, this valve has a narrowed down shaft to allow better flow than the stock valve. It is also milled from stainless steel for greater strength and durability. The valve seal is the same tough composite being used in current stock valves.

KAPP is claiming some pretty impressive reductions in operating pressure and increases in efficiency with this simple, inexpensive upgrade. I’ll report more after I’ve had more of a chance to test it out.

Valve Guide retaining screw

This is a nice one. Anyone who has had their valve guide retaining screw back out knows that it can be an expensive problem as the loose screw can smash up and strip out it’s own threads in the ’gun body. Several companies making custom Autocockers install custom mods to help ensure that the screw can not back out on it’s own. Finally, one of these mods is available to everyone. KAPP’s retaining screw has recess in it’s front face for an O-ring. When screwed down tight against the back of the valve guide, this O-ring provides extra friction to help prevent it from vibrating loose over time.

KAPP custom Autococker vertical ASA

Looking for more of a custom look for your Autococker? KAPP offers this custom-milled replacement for the vertical ASAs on Autocockers (not Minicockers). As with KAPP’s other Autococker offerings, this is available in both chrome and black, and can of course be anodized whatever color you like as it is aluminum. Functionally, this is identical to the stock vertical, so it is a purely cosmetic upgrade. Come on Chris! You’re more creative than that. You could have at least given us a side-tap for a gauge!

KAPP swivel elbows

These nifty pieces are 90 degree elbows for gas lines that can swivel around freely while still gassed-up. For anyone who frequently has to connect and disconnect lines (Pro-Connects, anyone?) these can be a life-saver. Made from aluminum, they are available in a variety of colors, similar to KAPP’s 3-ways. Frankly, I’d feel more comfortable if these were made from stainless steel. The swiveling section isn’t the thickest piece in the world for aluminum conducting high pressure air. Still, I’ve been using one of these for a few months now with no leaks or problems whatsoever.

KAPP Angel Fury bolt

It had to happen. The Angel bolts are coming. KAPP’s bolt isn’t the first, but it is the first to find it’s way into my hands. This bolt features aluminum construction with a black hard-coat and a stainless steel insert in the front for a diffuser face to reduce the impact of the blast on the paintball.

The first thing I found upon installing this bolt is that you can reduce your operating pressure. I was all ready to start investigating the matter when Chris at KAPP coughed up the solution. There isn’t anything special about the channel or face design of this bolt. The lower operating pressure is a result of the bolt’s greater weight (aluminum as opposed to the stock bolt’s delrin). The greater weight causes the hammer (which is coupled to the bolt) to have greater inertia when it hits the valve, opening it further to allow more air through. It’s similar to increasing the LPR pressure but without increasing the gas consumption.

My Angel cycled every bit as fast and shot every bit as well with this bolt as with the stock bolt, but with a lower operating pressure. The aluminum construction is likely to drive several people into a panic since WDP has publicized the results of their own early attempts with aluminum bolts, resulting in them fusing with the ’gun body. Apparently, this was only after ridiculous rates of fire carried out continuously for several minutes straight — nothing you’re ever going to encounter in the real world. KAPP has sold a lot of these bolts and no one has reported any problems with them yet.

If you’d like to lower your operating pressure without having to twiddle with any of your Angel’s settings, this is one nice bolt that will do the job nicely.

KAPP Automag Forgrip Extender

Apparently, some people don’t like the position of the stock Automag’s vertical ASA. I guess that some people would prefer it set much further forward. I have no idea who any of these people are, nor have I ever met one of them. But for whoever they are, wherever they are, KAPP has the solution for you. This extender bolts to the front of the rail where your vertical ASA or forgrip normally attaches and essentially just extends the rail further forward underneath the barrel. A hole drilled in its end allows you to reattach your vertical or grip 2.5" forward of the stock position.

It’s a well-made part, fits well, and is available in all of KAPP’s cool colors. If you just don’t feel like your ’mag is long enough, this will probably stretch it out to where you want it.

Shocktech Spyder spring set

Trying to tune your customized Spyder to perfection? Not getting all the best performance you were hoping for from your low pressure setup? You problem may be the spring weight. To help you tune your ’gun to perfection, Shocktech has released a set of 4 springs in different weights for the Spyder. They’re color coded for easy identification and should allow you to fine tune how hard your hammer hits if your stock velocity adjuster just doesn’t do the job.

Shocktech 2-piece Autococker low pressure chamber

Much like the absurd low pressure chambers on Angels, low P chambers on Autocockers are an extremely popular upgrade. Unlike the part on the Angel, these actually do something for the Autococker. They don’t do much on stock Autocockers, but ultra low pressure Autocockers and Minicockers can see some benefit. Paintguns that are set up to run at low pressure require a larger volume of gas to flow through the valve to get sufficient velocity. Low pressure chambers provide an extra large volume of regulated air in-line with, and ready to go charging through the valve when the ’gun is fired. This means that less (or no) extra air will have to be drawn from your air system for each shot, allowing lower pressure operation and better velocity consistency.

Shocktech’s chamber is, functionally speaking, no different from that made by any other company. It’s a big empty chamber that replaces your front-block screw. What is different is that it is a 2-piece unit, unscrewing in half near the base to make installation easier. With other chambers, you sometimes have to take the nipple off your Rock regulator to get it to fit with the low P chamber in place. With the Shocktech unit, you can install the front block with just the back half of the chamber, then install your regulator with no problem, finishing up by screwing the body of the chamber onto the base. Both the chamber base and body are cut for easy installation and removal with allen-wrenches. This two-piece design is a real step forward and should make it much easier for the average player to install and use this low pressure chamber.

Shocktech Beavertail

I first saw this sweet beavertail on Danny Love’s Autococker at the last Pittsburgh NPPL. At the time it was the only one he’d made. I jokingly asked him when he was going to make one for me. He said: Hey, we’re making them for everybody! After this long wait, they finally are available to everyone.

This beavertail is made of an aluminum base and ring joined by a stainless steel rod. The base is drilled to be attached to the Autococker body in the standard way. Since it doesn’t have the tabs that usually flank the grip frame, it can be used on any Autococker with either a stock or .45 frame. A small set screw through the base is used to lock it in place and prevent it from twisting after the main screw is used to fix it to the body. As they are made of aluminum, both the base and ring can be anodized to match your ’gun. This is definitely the coolest, most unique looking beavertail available.

All material at this site is © Ravi Chopra, 1999