Umarex T4E HDR50/TR50 paintball revolver velocity adjuster "pre-order".

[Foster]

Excited! Congratulations.

[DirrtyVans]

I’d like one

[LeBoucher]

I'd like one also ! Thx

[Knight4612]

I’m interested in this as well.

[Brokeass_baller]

Put me down for two. PayPal ready and waiting.

[Ghille-Man]

I would like one as well, pay pal is ready as soon as you are 😎.

[Archdogg]

I'll take 2 when they are done.

[DeDMeaT]

I would also be keen for this as well!

[Brokeass_baller]

Not to be pushy or rude or anything, but are there any updates on this?

[William the Third]

I apologize for the delay. Sadly life has got in the way and caused this to progress at a slower rate than I'd hoped for. Hopefully I'll have everything ready to ship out soon.

[Brokeass_baller]

I completely understand. Take your time, life comes first. I was just curious.

[Ushwi Hobak]

I would like one too once available

[CH1]

yes please

[William the Third]

So some of the early testers should have gotten their adjusters. The following is some general disassembly pictures so you can see what it looks like apart.

[William the Third]

O-ring sizes for the adjuster (I included some extra with the adjuster).

Sizes are as follow:
Green: M1.0x7.5, Buna-N, 70 Durometer - (1.00MM CS, 7.50MM ID, 9.50MM OD)
Yellow: M1.5x8.0, Buna-N, 90 Durometer - (1.50MM CS, 8.00MM ID, 11.00MM OD)
Blue: M2.0x3.0, Buna-N, 70 Durometer - (2.00MM CS, 3.00MM ID, 7.00MM OD)

[William the Third]

Eventually I'll do a video on how to install the adjusters, but for now here is a picture and text guide.

The adjuster replaces the part circled in green, the part circled in yellow must be removed to access it. This will work on 7.5 Joule and 11 Joule TR50/HDR50. This does not currently work on the HDP50, but the good news is I'm working on a redesign to fit these other markers from Umarex, and if you're handy, it would be trivial to modify this adjuster to fit.

7.5 Joule


11 Joule


Another look at the part that has to be removed to access the factory restriction (green circle in the first picture). This time circled in green to be extra confusing. To remove it circlip/snap ring pliers work great.


In most cases you won't be able to remove the factory restriction (green circle in the first picture) from the back (it's a light pressed fit), so you'll have to remove the bolt and push it out from the front. It's generally a good idea to remove the brass screw that seals it in and holds the aired-up indicator first. You have to compress the bolt spring to remove the valve assembly, and it's not fun with the aired-up indicator poking into your thumb. I didn't do it in this picture because I like the pain (actually I didn't think of it till it was too late).


The 7.5 joule factory restriction that must be removed.


The 11 joule factory restriction that must be removed.


The factory restriction removed. Make sure that the little o-ring on the 7.5 joule version (can be seen in the first picture) comes out with it. You want it to look just like this with nothing in there.


Reinstall the bolt assembly. In this picture I correctly left the aired-up indicator screw out so when I compressed the bolt spring I didn't add a new hole to my body. The trigger sometime pops out doing this, so it's best to just remove it. The spring is installed in the direction as shown in the picture, but onto the back of the trigger. The sear also sometimes gets in the way installing the bolt, so I like to remove it too.


This is how the sear spring should look when reinstalled.


Reinstall the other metal half of the clamshell so everything is held together. Now install the adjuster. The yellow M1.5x8.0 o-ring may not stay on the lip it sits on, but it's not a big deal. It will self correct when installed. It doesn't seal on the inner and outer diameters, but on the two faces. The large flat side with the small dump chamber fill hole faces down when installed.


Once the adjuster is installed, it's time to install the aired-up indicator screw. To do this you must first remove everything expect the giant brass screw and its outer o-ring. Basically you remove all of the aired-up indicator guts. They are held in with an e-clip. Remove the e-clip, spring, washer, little o-ring, and the aired-up indicator shaft. Now reinstall the brass screw. Tighten it firmly, so as to compress the M1.5x8.0 o-ring. Don't overly tighten it, or the o-ring may pinch out (which is why a 90 duro o-ring must be used)


If your aired-up indicator looks different, without an e-clip, this is how you disassemble it. It just pulls apart with a little force.




No pictures for the rest. Before putting everything back together it's not a bad idea to air it up and test fire it. Also, you'll want to put the two plastic shells together empty and slightly drill out the aired-up indicator hole in the back, so the 2.5mm nut driver you'll use to turn the adjust can fit. How big you drill it out really depends on the size of the nut driver you're going to use. You can find 2.5mm nut drivers in various places, but this is the one I use. It has tools you may not need, but it's only slightly more (sometimes as cheap as ~$12, but typically ~$17) than a plain 2.5mm nut driver.