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Who can make a delrin AKA viking hammer?

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    Who can make a delrin AKA viking hammer?

    I am looking to get a delrin aka viking valve made to use with the Lazarus valve. Any one can make one?

    #2
    Got any pictures?

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      #3
      Pretty sure Angry Paintball has made one before. Assuming he has it should be easy for him to make another. He likely saved the specs.
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        #4
        If someone had the dimensions i am sure a few of us could make one pretty quickly.
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          #5
          while just about anyone can make a delrin hammer, I wouldn't recommend having it made to stock specs because the ram shaft is set into the hammer giving it a fairly thin wall condition in some parts. This is the same reason that the AKA robtown valves went with their own designs. It would be best to have a custom Ram shaft and hammer made. I bought a bunch of .250 hardened, ground and polished rod that I had intended to make a run of shafts/hammers for use with the Lazarus valves... I just haven't had any spare time.

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            #6
            Originally posted by Frmrspec View Post
            while just about anyone can make a delrin hammer, I wouldn't recommend having it made to stock specs because the ram shaft is set into the hammer giving it a fairly thin wall condition in some parts. This is the same reason that the AKA robtown valves went with their own designs. It would be best to have a custom Ram shaft and hammer made. I bought a bunch of .250 hardened, ground and polished rod that I had intended to make a run of shafts/hammers for use with the Lazarus valves... I just haven't had any spare time.
            Could you elaborate a little bit more? Why do you assume custom ram?

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              #7
              Because I made some and had multiple failures at the same point. I’ll take pictures later

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                #8
                I made one that I'm still testing. The first one was a direct copy did break.
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                  #9
                  The first picture is how much of the stock shaft protrudes even when in the rear most position, the second picture shows the shoulder within the hammer that the shaft seats against when fully screwed together.. you have two design options to make, you can run the rearward bumper exactly like stock, but it puts a ton of pressure on the hammer and will quickly break the hammer, or you can rig up some kind of rearward bumper inside the ram… this can be tricky depending on how you do it.
                  Attached Files

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                    #10
                    Here is the hammer and Ram shaft of the destructive customs Robtown valve, these are most like 7000 series aluminum but notice how the shaft seats against the face of the hammer, not within it. I had luck with hammers that seat against the face BUT had a much longer threaded section inside the ram shaft (more surface area to absorb the load of absorbing the rearward travel)..
                    Attached Files

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                      #11
                      A steel ram shaft and composite hammer is a nice balance point for me.. aluminum shaft and composite hammer (annd cut down bolt) ended up being too light and needed a higher LPR. I prefer slightly heavier ram assembly and lower LPR. Plus the hardened, ground polished rod I used made it buttery smooth

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Frmrspec View Post
                        The first picture is how much of the stock shaft protrudes even when in the rear most position, the second picture shows the shoulder within the hammer that the shaft seats against when fully screwed together.. you have two design options to make, you can run the rearward bumper exactly like stock, but it puts a ton of pressure on the hammer and will quickly break the hammer, or you can rig up some kind of rearward bumper inside the ram… this can be tricky depending on how you do it.
                        could you just make the hammer shorter so the ram stops it’s travel internally instead of on the skirt of the hammer?

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Side-Swipe View Post

                          could you just make the hammer shorter so the ram stops it’s travel internally instead of on the skirt of the hammer?
                          two problems, a shorter hammer means the back ledge that supports the bolt pin would be thinner and more likely to break. Also means the ram would be stopped by slamming into the ram housing... thats why I talked about the internal bumper.

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