Adding a ball detent

[Euphie]

So I am on a mission to make the ultimate Shocker, I already got a morlock board, and an Angel 4 frame since I don’t really like the smart parts frame all that much, but there is something missing: a ball detent.

I have rarely had double feeds on Right feed shockers but it can be a problem with a force feed hopper and I want to try and see if I can shoot faster than a Revvie will allow. This means I should probably add eyes and a ball detent.

the question then becomes how? Is there like an old school guide for adding a wire detent? I like the idea of a wire one because if it isn’t perfectly located I can change where the bend in the wire is but once that hole is tapped for like angel detents I don’t see how I could fix it if I get it off.

is this something I can just bang out with a dremel or am I going to need someone with a mill and do I really need to do it on the left side or can a wire detent be put in the top to keep the side looking cleaner?

also how much would someone with the proper equipment change to do eyes, plus detent, and metal eye covers? It might make more sense not to diy.

[Jordan]

I think DocsMachine is the guy to talk to... he modded a lot of Shockers back in the day.

[DocsMachine]

You called?

A few Shockers back in the day got retrofitted with first-gen Angel detents. Locating these is easy, using the same dimensions as on a 'Cocker or LED. They need the use of a mill, though, due to the angled sides and the need to counterbore.

As far as ROF goes, trust me when I say it takes some solid effort and careful tuning to hit 12 BPS, and heroic effort to knock on the door of 13.

The two issues are the long and restrictive passages from the bolt solenoid to the bolt itself- not just the ports through the body, but those on the bolt itself. And making those any bigger starts reducing bolt O-ring life. The other is the massive low-pressure dump chamber. That produces a comparatively long dwell time for the shot.

So between the relatively long fire/refill cycle for the dump chamber, and the comparatively slow bolt cycle time, the factory-board limit of 11.2 BPS is very close to the max you're going to get.

I did a TON of work to one of my own Shoeboxes back in the day, with the literally very first production Glacier board. The board itself was unlimited- I could have set it to 25 BPS if I wanted. But in stock configuration, 12/sec was sometimes iffy, and 13/sec was right out. With a few mods, you can make 12 a touch more reliable, but as soon as the battery starts to get weak, you start getting mis-cycles and pinched balls. (And nobody likes pinched balls. )

Doc.

[Euphie]

I should just buy a second one so I can send this one off then to get detents and eyes done properly. And still play with one in the meantime.The best I can manage is a dremel over a cross slide vice which has no rigidity and no precision so anything beyond cutting a slot with rough dimensions is just beyond my capabilities.

I really do love this clunky old things I wanna at least be able to get consistent NXL ramping without pinches or gaps if I can.

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