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Making a KP Stock, have some questions

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    Making a KP Stock, have some questions

    So I'm starting a project to restock my KP3 with something unique. Don't want to modify my original stock incase I screw up. So I will be starting with a block of wood. Wondering how do people get the round cut into the wood where the gun tubes sit? Its about the only part I haven't figured out.

    I do have a pretty well stocked woodshop as far as tools and what I don't have here I may have at my mothers house. As I keep two woodshops.

    #2
    I used a 1" DIA router bit. I tossed it on my bridgeport but a router table and fence should be fine.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by netsurferdude2 View Post
      I used a 1" DIA router bit. I tossed it on my bridgeport but a router table and fence should be fine.
      Awesome that is what I was thinking, Routertable cut as far back as I can and then finish by hand. My KP is one of the flat backed so I think the cut cant be run out the back of the stock.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by netsurferdude2 View Post
        I used a 1" DIA router bit. I tossed it on my bridgeport but a router table and fence should be fine.
        Aren't the lower tubes on brass 7/8"? Or was the 1" for "wiggle room" for fitment?
        And God turned to Gabriel and said: “I shall create a land called Canada of outstanding natural beauty, with majestic mountains soaring with eagles, sparkling lakes abundant with bass and trout, forests full of elk and moose, and rivers stocked with salmon. I shall make the land rich in oil so the inhabitants prosper and call them Canadians, and they shall be praised as the friendliest of all people.”

        “But Lord,” asked Gabriel, “Is this not too generous to these Canadians?”

        And God replied, “Just wait and see the neighbors I shall inflict upon them."

        Comment


        • Spider!

          Spider!

          commented
          Editing a comment
          I think you are correct. You could use a 7/8 if you could find one. The 1 inch is a bit expensive to start with.

          Also, the larger bit doubles up on the pump handle, if you make one. It gives you some space there.

        #5
        I honestly use a two flute ball end mill.

        Comment


          #6
          You can also get the stock hardware such as trigger guards and takedown screw and escutcheuon from Numrich/Gun Parts Corp: Gun Parts & Firearm Accessories | Numrich Gun Parts (gunpartscorp.com)

          Stock blanks: Prairie Hunter Uninlet Stock | Boyds Hardwood Gunstocks (boydsgunstocks.com)

          Comment


            #7
            Originally posted by Sniperfan View Post
            You can also get the stock hardware such as trigger guards and takedown screw and escutcheuon from Numrich/Gun Parts Corp: Gun Parts & Firearm Accessories | Numrich Gun Parts (gunpartscorp.com)

            Stock blanks: Prairie Hunter Uninlet Stock | Boyds Hardwood Gunstocks (boydsgunstocks.com)
            Awesome thanks for the link. I'll definitely be looking there

            Comment


              #8
              I used a mill and a 2 flute 1'' diameter end mill when i had a mill.
              I also used a table saw as a guerrilla method - a polish hammer if you will. Finished with a dowel and sandpaper and chisels. A real hack job.

              Comment


                #9
                I like Boyd's, but just fyi the laminate is heavy. Stable and stout, but heavy.
                Feedback

                https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...der-s-feedback

                Comment


                  #10
                  Yeah- I have a Mosin and missed the boat on the cheaper walnut stocks from Boyds. I did catch the Mosin and a 440 rd spam can of ammo for less than $200 otd however. Not really a fan of laminate, but at least it's not plastic.

                  A friend of mine is Reed Sherman who designed the Jart series of R/C sailplanes. The Jart uses the "lost-foam" method of making a fiberglass fuselage. You carve the shape you want out of a sheet of 2" blue foam, cover it in packing tape, fiberglass it, then drill a hole and dribble in some acetone- the foam melts, and you drag the tape and foam goop mess out of a hole- you could use the area in the barrel channel, or under the butt plate. Then you apply a skim of bondo, sand, putty, paint. Fairly inexpensive way to make something this size and shape: Jart - Build Thread - RC Groups

                  Here's a video of Reed flying the first Jart at a spot in Nor Cal: JART — The Original - YouTube

                  Yes- he's just that good.

                  Comment


                    #11
                    Originally posted by Sniperfan View Post
                    Yeah- I have a Mosin and missed the boat on the cheaper walnut stocks from Boyds. I did catch the Mosin and a 440 rd spam can of ammo for less than $200 otd however. Not really a fan of laminate, but at least it's not plastic.

                    A friend of mine is Reed Sherman who designed the Jart series of R/C sailplanes. The Jart uses the "lost-foam" method of making a fiberglass fuselage. You carve the shape you want out of a sheet of 2" blue foam, cover it in packing tape, fiberglass it, then drill a hole and dribble in some acetone- the foam melts, and you drag the tape and foam goop mess out of a hole- you could use the area in the barrel channel, or under the butt plate. Then you apply a skim of bondo, sand, putty, paint. Fairly inexpensive way to make something this size and shape: Jart - Build Thread - RC Groups

                    Here's a video of Reed flying the first Jart at a spot in Nor Cal: JART — The Original - YouTube

                    Yes- he's just that good.
                    I have thought of that and a variation may be another project in the future. My big concern is expense the way I want to do it and it creates do drum.

                    Comment


                      #12
                      for inletting, I just draw the width lines & make 3 passes with a 7/8" half round in a router, then clean it up with a sandpaper wrapped scrap of brass.

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