Mostly 3D printed SPump

[devilzcall]

Hi there, I'm new here.

I wanted to show my work in progress speedster pump conversion. This place is an absolute goldmine for spump inspiration, thank you so much for that.



First some backdrop on this marker:
It is a Umarex branded Pro-Toyz speedster, and as far as I know a direct spyder clone. I got it for 30€ at a flea market a few years back and it actually got me into paintball. It has been missing a few parts from the start and I replaced the Hammer back cap with a printed piece that is only now showing signs of wear.
Because I have no access to heavier tools than a dremel and also less access (and unwillingness to pay for) common cocker/trilly parts but a passion for 3d Printing and CAD design, this conversion takes a few unique turns.

Here are all the modified/new pieces parted out:



- The pumpgrip is off my own design. With the right reference I would like to make it cocker compatible before I upload the files for this conversion.

- The pump rod is a piece of threaded m5 rod with a brass sleeve to avoid scratching and snagging on things. I'll pick up some stainless rod on my next trip to the hardware store.

- The pump guide consists of 10mm aluminium tube and a 3d printed base. I was not keen on sourcing a trillogy pumpkit to germany and this actually holds the 500-800psi coming from my bottle. If I redo this piece, I'll make the rod 8mm in diameter to accept a linear bearing on the pumpgrip side, but this is quite smooth.


- The bolt has a printed extension attached. Conveniently it already had a screw port on the back that would hold a plastic sleeve to avoid metal on metal contact. Important to note is the print orientation, as you would usually print a round part like this upright; however I opted to cut away part of the cylindrical surface to print it flat for significantly higher tensile strength.


- Lastly the hammer. I spent 2-3 hours grinding away on the hardened steel hammer with my dremel and a stone bit before giving up. This hammer is printed flat in a similar manner to the bolt and uses an m5 screw as a striking surface and weight. It is still very lightweight and woll probably bite my arse when I try to convert to low pressure, but for now It works just fine. I can see the rear portion breaking when you fire it with the bolt not quite forward or the sear surface wearing down over a few dozen trigger pulls, but I guess I'll just print a bunch for my next game day. If it doesn't work out in the long run, I'll send the original and/or my cad modell to a friend that works in a machine shop.


The Entire action is exceptionally smooth, but my pump experience so far has been with (quite heavy) spring powered nerf blasters.
I haven't had a chance to chrony it or shoot actual paint through it, but it holds air and fires quite loudly. I'm concerned the hammer might be too light to get acceptable fps, but we'll see. If i can get my hands on some nice elbow fittings and macroline I can attach my PPS Fatty reg and work on converting this to LPA.

If you have recommendations on where you get your pneumatics within the EU, I'm curious. Other than that, tell me if you think mixing HPA and 3D printing like this is reckless.

[Jonnydread]

I saw this post on r/Paintball this morning, I was wondering if it would pop up over here. Funky build and quite well thought out, you clearly put time into this. My advice is don't be overly concerned with lower your operating pressure, lower pressure does not always mean better performance and some guns are more reliable with higher pressures.

[devilzcall]

Probably, lets see how hot (or not) this one ends up shooting. Since I already have the reg, installing it would give me the option to adjust velocity by pressure instead of spring tension. It'd also go along with eventually sourcing a trilogy LPR and turning this into a spocker/cockster ...I should probably get a real autococker first.

[Jonnydread]

devilzcall I would sweetspot the reg in the general vicinity of desired FPS, then use spring tension adjustment to set the final velocity. In most Sheridan-valve style setups I would advise against using the reg to set velocity as it can cause fluctuations in performance.

[Brianeric26]

Maaaaaan i really wish i had saw this post before i bough my spyder pump i bought one model that dosent have an lpc thinking it could be easier to 3d print a pump rod but no your idea is actually way easier , what material are you using ? Youl you mind sharing or selling the stl file for the hammer ? Im really interested on it for my spump build, though i was wondering to try and make her open bolt to avoid using other stricker/hammer and keep the ball detent function but still really amazing job 💪

[devilzcall]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5278050

[Brianeric26]

Thankss

[devilzcall]

Halfblock mod

This is what I started with yesterday. Before that, I flipped the VASA, which is documented here.


This turned out way better than it should have, given that I was working with a dremel, half of a metal saw and a set of glorified nail files from aliexpress.

I started by creating a 3d printed guide piece since I already had most of a digital twin of this marker in my CAD software. This made it super easy to align the vertical cut and was basically useless for the horizontal cut. Also the radius on the inner corner was a dumb Idea.


I had to get into the sides with my dremel and eventually took off the guide after scribing an outline. Only once I broke through both sides with the dremel I could properly use the saw for the horizontal cut.


Yeah, no, that looks like shit. I dremeled it down as good as I could and then used my tiny files to get the surface uniform. The printed guide was actually really nice for filing, or if i had a proper sized metal file it would have been at least.

Once all the dust was cleaned up and the jig was removed It actually looks quite nice.

Now onto the sled. That was another really easy Exercise, given all the measurements I had already made. So off to the printer it goes. 45 minutes later:


I am so happy with that. The sled is deliberately not flush with the bolt to mimic my design of the velocity adjuster.

And since I could also use my pumpgrip as reference in CAD, the pump rod aligns perfectly. Here is the finished Marker:



Whats Next?

• I want a nicer barrel for this. I have a lapco adapter for AC barrels but it gets caught on the pumpgrip and I don't like the thought of paint getting shot from a wide bore into the control bore.
• It desperately needs a nicer frame. I want to try my hands at printing something resembling a single trigger dye ultralight frame. What kind of nicer single trigger frames or mods are out there for spyders?
• I'd like to get rid of the spyder style endcap and replace it with an autococker IVG style thread and cap, but that's probably happening way down the line.
• Clamping feedneck. Thought about ordering another bike seat clamp, but there's some reasonably cheap spyder feednecks on german ebay.

[Spider!]

I particularly like the guide block/jig. Nice work all around though!

[devilzcall]

Thank you! I really need a nice metal file.

[Rainmaker]

I think the grip frame would look really cool with this style of finger/hand-guard...

[devilzcall]

That's cool! what marker is that from?

[XEMON]

It's from a rainmaker

[The Great Equalizer]

You can also find this grip frame on much cheaper Brass Eagle Raptors (the old metal ones, not the plastic "Blade" that they rebranded "raptor" for a short period of time.)

[devilzcall]

Next Chapter: Custom plastic grip frame



I designed this frame with some inspiration from the ccm 86° grips but did want a slight backwards angle on them. The left design is 95° the Z-grips are 60°. No idea if those are actually usable, would probably need to angle the asa or just remove in favor of normal mounting screws.

The grips are also used to clamp a simple remote line on/off in place, similar to the previous one-piece design.

Here's the 95° frame, printed with all the internals in place:



I messed up the trigger-sear spacing slightly, so the sear doesn't reset independent from the trigger. That is perfectly fine for my purposes, but will be fixed before i make the files available.

[zinger565]

That looks awesome. Any fitment/tolerance issues with the trigger pins?

I've got a very old Spyder Xtra that I use as a back-up and this has me intrigued. It's already "half-blocked" and has a reg, also has the lpc threads. It may be a perfect candidate for something like this 😁

[devilzcall]

I just whacked them real hard xD
The pins are 3mm, the holes are sized 3.2mm which should work on most machines and if not, you can drill them out.

[Numbskull]

Didn't realise this was posted here too! I remember seeing it on reddit and damn it's clean!

I really like your use of CAD and 3D printing here, not just in the parts you've designed for the function like the hammer and the sled, but that cutting jig too. I have one I am doing something similar with in terms of "half-blocking", and I am baffled at how easy and clean your idea made the cutting process. I'm very excited to see what you do next

[Sad King Billy]

people aren't even going to believe this was a spyder by the time you're done.

what material are you using for the grip frame?

[devilzcall]

It's just PLA, but that's plenty strong

[80F100]

Great build 👏
possible future spyder clone pumps 😏
Interesting..

[Raven911]

Any chance we can get access to the 3d files for this? I have a box of spyder parts and bodies and I bet could get a couple going with this.

[devilzcall]

Parts are on thingverse, linked below

[Brokeass_baller]

This is absolutely fantastic. You're doing great work.

[devilzcall]

Printable files for the pumpgrip and extended bolt: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5278050
Files for the Halfblock: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5419761