Der Cockermaker Part 2: The return of Der Cockermaker

[XEMON]

Hello MCB,

I recently got Der Cockermaker as a "not quite done but working" project gun.
The first part of the build has been documented, so I thought i would carry the torch ...

Rainmaker build thread: POP Contest - Rainmaker's entry

Here is how i received the marker:



There are a few thing i would like to do before considering it "done":
- make it simpler to take the back block off
- replace the board with a Morlok
- Ill find something ...

The board replacement would allow me to accomplish a few things. First i would be able to adjust dwell, which is not currently available on the RM board, then i would be able to add eyes, which the body is drilled for. I would stuff all this inside an electro frame (preferably blue) for good measure ...

Thanks for watching,
X

[XEMON]

- make it simpler to take the back block off

The back block - bolt spacer was affixed to the back block, which meant it had to be taken out to be able to remove the back block.
To correct that, the spacer needed to be fastened to the hammer, so i machined a piece of delrin and press-fit it into the spring groove of the hammer:


Now i can remove/adjust the back block just like on a regular cocker:

[Alexndl]

Happy to see this project will continue to evolve
The first post by Rainmaker was already fun to watch and I think this project is now a MCB fan favorite

[Rainmaker]

Love what you've got going here, XEMON!

She and her sister are definitely in capable hands

[XEMON]

Thanks, I have a good base to start with 👍

[XEMON]

I am flifloping between a blue shocker frame or a chrome race frame (from a member here) ... Also got my eyes on a freeflow but I doubt I'll have the highest bid 😅

[XEMON]

Frame came in, now I need to cut a few things and put the electronic inside 👍

Here it is layed out (not bolted):

[JeeperCreeper]

That shocker frame just looks right on there

[XEMON]

The ano is nearly a perfect match ...
Gonna cut a groove on the he top "race frame style" for the solenoid wires

[JeeperCreeper]

This makes me wanna mess with the Poo CVO. Haven't touched it since I got a real one

[XEMON]

I think I got the electronic layed out.
Morlok on the top and screen bellow the battery on the left.

[XEMON]

Unless i go with a li-po ...

Edit: if i go Li-po i may try to make it clean and use clear panels ...

[XEMON]

Thanks BrickHaus for the goodies.
Der Cockermaker will not be blind anymore and will be cool doing it 😎

[XEMON]

Back to back update ...

Here is the groove in the frame:

And with the wire:

[XEMON]

I think I got the electronic layed out.

well ... went a totally different way ...
got teh bottom half of the electronic ready, Morlok pin de-soldered and new wiring soldered in place. Lipo, screen and board installed.

To do:
- take picture
- find a way to attach trigger microswitch
- figure out eye wiring (if anyone got a pinout laying around ...) and test them
- find a way to attach the eye
- wire solenoid
- Take some more pics
- GO PLAY!!!

[devilzcall]

Here's a thought:

How about a weak-ish spring pushing the bolt forward?

• Keeps the marker neat and compact while degassed
• You could probably turn down the lpr pressure slightly for the same Velocity.

[XEMON]

Not sure how to mount it, it would have to mounted on teh ram shaft to keep teh back block forward.

[devilzcall]

Probably around the delrin spacer, but it would make disassembly a lot more cumbersome

[XEMON]

That wont prevent the back block from flopping around when de-pressurized ... the hammer, back block and bolt are all one solid piece, they all move together.

[Roger7pball]

Hopefully you can get the Morlock to power the 2 solenoids off of the LiPo voltage. I’ve had issues in the past with it bringing up the 3.7 volts to power 2 noids at high rate of fire.

edit - just realized you’re running 1 solenoid. Sorry to litter your thread.

[XEMON]

no problem, good to know for future projects.

[XEMON]

To do:
- take picture

Right side, the battery side:


Left side, the screen and power switch:


Also re-purposed the back switch as the sleep switch (no idea what it does on a shocker):

[XEMON]

To do:
- find a way to attach trigger microswitch

In process, but I got a plan 😅

- figure out eye wiring (if anyone got a pinout laying around ...)

Got somewhere ... This is not an led receiver like I originally thought ... It's an non phototransistor.

Here is a pinout (view is with the lead facing you)


Had to significantly drop the sensitivity of the board to detect anything (my testing with ion eyes didn't need sensitivity adjustment). Then had to drop it some more to account for the ball rolling in the breach a bit ... So started at 65, and dropped it all the way to 5 ... Will see how it works in game.




Next:

- find a way to attach the eye

Anyone know whats the screw threads for the eye cover?

[Jordan]

I think the eye cover bolt is 4-40.