Brass Modification Questions

[TarntKarntington]

I'm looking to do some modifications on brass (PMI-I/P68) but my experience working with metal doesn't go beyond drilling holes in stainless.

1. What are people using to strip paint? The paint on these is mostly faded already. I have mineral spirits on hand, will that work well enough?
2. I want to cut a 12ie dropout and view port/spring slot on the feed tube. Can I expect to be able to do all my cutting with a Dremel? Any jigs or techniques that would be helpful?
3. I'm also interested in nickel plating, I have the tools and YouTube makes it look pretty accessible. Have people had much luck doing this in the workshop or is it better left to professionals?

Thanks in advance!

[Jordan]

I used a Dremel to do my 12gram dropout and it worked pretty good. Biggest tip I can give you is to take your time and cut it undersized, then use files to bring it to the proper dimensions.

I haven't tackled the springfeed slot I want to do on my KP yet, I'm not confident I can keep the slot straight enough yet. Still trying to figure out if I can make a fixture to help me.

[TarntKarntington]

Thanks for the tip! I was thinking I could maybe 3D print or route some plywood for a template, either to guide the cutter directly or drill holes along the length of the tube and remove material between the holes with a cutter afterward. I've never used a Dremel so wasn't sure whether there were guide bearings available for cutting bits that could be used with a guide.

[BrickHaus]

Ive read others' post that they used the carbide cut off wheel on their dremel to help keep the spring feed slot straight. Ive never attempted one myself. But i assume a masking tape line and careful hand will get one good enough.

I don't think a 3d printed fixture would work as it would just deform with the friction heat of your dremel.

[TarntKarntington]

Good point on the heat, I think that rules out 3D printed. Probably just overthinking it, once I have some experience with the Dremel it should be easy enough provided I take my time.

[netsurferdude2]

Drilling/cutting the top tube is very tough without the right machines. I have tried it twice in the past and your eye can really pick up on changes in the pattern if you don't do it correctly. If you can manage a template, that seems like the best way to do it. Also as Jordan said, do as much as you can with a file.

[JeepDVLZ45]

I use Citri-strip to clean my Sheridans. Soak them
for a few hours and then use a nylon cup brush in my drill to 90% of it off.



As for any drilling. I always sand a small flat area on the tube first then scratch it in so the bit doesn’t wander on me, but I don’t have a press. I also wrap a rod in tape and sandpaper, then chalk it in my drill so I can sand the burs you end up internally. (Just wrap the rod with enough masking tape so it slides in the tube without resistance, then the sandpaper around that will give it just enough thickness so you get decent pressure on those burs to sand them out.

Slots and such I do with a Dremel, but I also sand a flat area along the tube and then drill either end and a few spots along the way, mark a tape line and play connect the dots. Then I take a small jewelry file to clean it up a bit, and then sand the inside the same way I mentioned above

JeeperCreeper may chime in, he’s done a lot of brass work as of late. I bet he’s got some great tips for you.

[Impactfour]

I'm gonna hop in here if you guys don't mind, as I'm trying to cut slots out off the top tube of a pgp.

I'd read online that using flat headed drill bits works best with brass. Are people going out and buying these, or is it alright if I grab some old bits and grind the tips down?

[JeeperCreeper]

I just use regular drill bits, but I use a punch to mark the holes and keep the drill bit from wandering