Freak boring

[Brokeass_baller]

I'm not sure if this belongs here, or in the DIY projects section, but...

I'm piecing together a little basement shop, and I picked up an old tabletop lathe and would like to try Freak boring some old stock barrels.

Question is, are you guys just using reamers? Twist bits? Or is there some other bit that I'm not familiar with that's more common for these mods? Basically, wtf am I supposed to do? Thanks in advance.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Following this as I have horded a bunch of crap barrels and own a lathe even (came with my house). Just have no idea what I need.

[alpha_q_up]

From what Ive seen and asked it seems the best method is boring bar(to break through anodizing on non-raw barrels) a twist drill close to finish size and then a reamer to size, as for size and depth I'm sure you can take measurements off an insert. I think once the tooling is there indicating the barrels in is the biggest factor in properly freak boring. Also you might be able to get away with a twist drill and reamer.

[tjd10684]

I ran a "roughing" reamer and a finish reamer. The roughing reamer was a standard size 23/32 I think. This was the tool that got eaten up the most you could tell when it was getting worn there would be a ring on the end of the reamer where it was plowing through the anodize layer. For finishing I had to get a "special" reamer of 0.745 a standard 0.750 reamer was too loose and after measuring many inserts 745 worked better.

[Siress]

How do you plan to hold the barrel and cutting tool(s)?
Can you slip a barrel through the ID of your chuck and spindle?
How much distance do you have between your chuck jaws and tip of the intended tool holder?
Does your tail stock have more than 5" of travel?

Tip 1) Ignore anything involving a boring bar or unbalanced loads. They'll just ruin the straightness of your final pass.
Tip 2) The more flutes, the better... same rationale.
Tip 3) You'll need to do this >5 (maybe >10) times before it makes financial sense.

Not that you asked, but found a good reference for dimensions - https://inceptionforums.com/showthre...tions-standard

[Brokeass_baller]

I was thinking about clamping some brass around the barrel and just tightening the chuck. What would be proper?

Chuck has to bit holder I have about 2', just eyeballing.

Not sure about tailstock adjustment. I'll find out tonight.

[Brokeass_baller]

We're looking at about 3½" of tailstock stroke. Damn. Don't tell my wife y'all. She doesn't know how to read a ruler.

[Jackson]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YaUXIC3WNjA&list=WL&index=84&t=118s

No commentary or instructions provided, but visually you should be able to figure most of it out.

[scottieb]

How does the insert stay in the barrel? Is it just slip fit? Is there an oring?

[Siress]

I don't recommend the clamping method unless you're using SS inserts or are VERY careful every single time you thread the barrel on. I estimate the clamping force of typical barrel threads, with 1" OD being torque by hand is going to be in the neighborhood of 24,000 lbf.

[tjd10684]

And the Modulus of Elasticity for typical 6061 is 10000 ksi. Your inserts will be fine.

https://asm.matweb.com/search/SpecificMaterial.asp?bassnum=ma6061t6

[Siress]

UTS is correct metric for this, not the elastic modulus. Per your source, the UTS is 45 ksi. What do you estimate the load bearing area is?

[Sdawg]

It just slips in.