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Mask Dyeing

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    Mask Dyeing

    I wanted to try dyeing a mask, and my Profiler seemed like a great test subject.
    • Mask with light-colored rubber and/or plastic (I used a Profiler “Shark”).
    • Synthetic fabric dye (Rit Dye More, iDye Poly Synthetic, or equivalent). Buy online or at a craft store like Michael’s or Joanne’s Fabrics.
    • Sacrificial pot, long salad tongs, cookie sheet, and cookie drying rack from 2nd hand store (DON’T use them for food ever again)
    • long rubber gloves
    Rit dye is non toxic and can be used indoors - it smelled some but wasn’t bad when used indoors. It also requires less heat than iDye, which is why I used it. Didn’t want to melt anything.
    iDye suggests outdoor use due to the fumes. Their formula requires a rolling boil, but their video shows plastic sunglasses, wigs, and wiffle balls being dyed without problems.
    Process I followed:
    1. Clean the mask thoroughly and remove all bands, elastic, clips, lenses, visors, etc. If you wish to dye those pieces, they should be separate loose pieces on the dye pot. If the foam is removable, take it out. Mine had the glue separate, so I’ll have to glue it back in. YMMV.
      1. Note: I tied a shoelace in a loop through the harder plastic to use as a hanging device to suspend it in the liquid. This wasn’t necessary in the end.
    2. Get the water to near boiling (~200F/94C) then add the dye. For darker shades, add two bottles. I just used one. Add a tablespoon of dish soap. Stir thoroughly.
    3. While wearing the long gloves, slowly sink the mask under the water. I used the salad tongs to make sure the whole mask was submerged at all times to get an even coat. Once the mask foam separated, the mask stayed down on its own due to reduced buoyancy. Even though it rested on the bottom of the pot, nothing melted or became malformed - the heat on the electric coil stove stayed at 7-7.5.
    4. Keep the temperature just below boiling and occasionally stir the liquid so the dye particles don’t settle at the bottom. Ensure the whole mask is always submerged.
    5. I left mine in for about 90 minutes. The longer it’s in the pot, the darker the end result.
    6. I took a picture at 15 min into the process and again after rinsing it off at 90 min. I expected it to be the darkest when wet, but it actually darkened as it dried. I’m happy with the end result - should be a great mask for woodsball play.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	image_44284.jpg Views:	7 Size:	3.89 MB ID:	352506

    Before dyeing:
    Click image for larger version  Name:	image_44285.jpg Views:	5 Size:	3.19 MB ID:	352507
    Click image for larger version  Name:	image_44286.jpg Views:	7 Size:	3.26 MB ID:	352508

    15 min in the dye:
    Click image for larger version  Name:	image_44287.jpg Views:	5 Size:	3.48 MB ID:	352509

    After 90 min in the dye and final rinse:
    Click image for larger version  Name:	image_44289.jpg Views:	5 Size:	3.43 MB ID:	352511
    Click image for larger version  Name:	image_44288.jpg Views:	5 Size:	3.00 MB ID:	352510

    After completely drying, a few hours later:
    Click image for larger version  Name:	image_44290.jpg Views:	5 Size:	3.12 MB ID:	352512 Click image for larger version  Name:	image_44291.jpg Views:	4 Size:	3.45 MB ID:	352513
    Last edited by lhamilton1807; 12-29-2022, 12:31 PM. Reason: Added extra info about dyes.
    Originally posted by Chuck E Ducky:
    “You don’t need a safety keep your booger hook on the bang switch.​“

    #2
    Thanks for sharing man! I have a Profiler kicking around that I don't use anymore, I should try this.
    💀 PK x Ragnastock 💀

    Comment


    #3
    This turned out really nice, thanks for the information and write-up!

    Comment


      #4
      Here are a few that I have done. Tiger was orange frames covered in high temp Tiger stripe vinyl then dyed black. Same method.

      Comment


      • lhamilton1807
        lhamilton1807 commented
        Editing a comment
        They look great! Which dye brand did you use?

      • Chuck E Ducky

        Chuck E Ducky

        commented
        Editing a comment
        Rit Synthetic

      #5
      FYI - rinse and squeeze out your foam until the water is clear. I didn’t do a good enough job and the next time I played (and got the foam all sweaty) I had green smudges around my eyes 🥸
      Originally posted by Chuck E Ducky:
      “You don’t need a safety keep your booger hook on the bang switch.​“

      Comment


        #6
        I remove it and glue it back on with super glue. I’m not messing around and screwing up my OG sandanas.

        Comment


        • Siress

          Siress

          commented
          Editing a comment
          I had better luck with rubber cement myself.

        • Chuck E Ducky

          Chuck E Ducky

          commented
          Editing a comment
          I have always just used super glue the jell kind to fix mask foam and when I do it don’t ever come off again. So that’s my go to. I just make sure the lens is out so I don’t mess anything up. I do this with all my flex mask’s because because the new way they install the foam looks goofy and hangs over the frame. I aline the top edge and bottom edge let the foam squeeze together in the middle and glue it in place. The foam fits and looks much nicer. But a lot of people use rubber cement I’m pretty sure that’s what JT uses.

        • lhamilton1807
          lhamilton1807 commented
          Editing a comment
          I use fabric glue. Specifically Gorilla Glue brand, but I assume most fabric flues will work fine. Comes in a big enough tube to be easy to apply and is thick enough that it won’t soak into the foam. Apply to top 1/2 of the lens surround area, spread it thin w a Q-tip, apply the foam, the. Repeat w the bottom. This keeps it from drying before the foam is pressed on.
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