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    #16
    This: "the 4 corners and center are all within 2 thou." Is great.
    the first layer height can be set to whatever you need (and adjusted) in the slicer.

    For the nozzle install: it HAS to be tightened hot!
    I've had nozzle that leaked and had ok results with sanding the back to mate it to the heat break.

    Also, I love silicone sock for the hot end, it prevents a lot of stuff from sticking and help with heat loss ...

    Love my brass ... Love my SSR ... Hard choices ...

    XEMON's phantom double sided feed
    Keep your ATS going: Project rATS 2.0
    My Feedback

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      #17
      Update! Its not perfect, but I got it printing well enough to move forward.

      Benchy looked great except lumps on my over hangs showing I likely need to tone my wall flows down a bit, but for making a mold that should be fine.

      Seeing a smidge of curling on the mold after 14 hours. But Iam hoping thats it. Ill keep messing with bed and cooling temps.


      I mqy print off a new cooling duct and extrusion housing to help with my print quality.
      Attached Files
      https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...khaus-feedback

      Comment


        #18
        Looking good 👍
        troubleshoot is frustrating at times, but you always learn something that helps move forward.
        After having some heat creep problem, I went ahead and printed a "hero me" (I think) with the biggest fans I could find ...
        also added a silicone sock to the hot end and upgraded to a titanium heat break.
        It made a world of difference in the control of the hot end.

        Click image for larger version

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        Love my brass ... Love my SSR ... Hard choices ...

        XEMON's phantom double sided feed
        Keep your ATS going: Project rATS 2.0
        My Feedback

        Comment


        • BrickHaus

          BrickHaus

          commented
          Editing a comment
          Can I ask what fans ypu have on here? Look like 5015 models, but what brand?

          I ask because I have been eyeballing the petsfang duct models.

          Im torn on the blockhead vs the bullseye.

          Bullseye looks cooler, and utilized the stock 4010 fan ( mines bad anyways so Id have to buy a new one)

          Block head requires a 5015 fan upgrade, and is more compact, and in a youtube video, seems to move more air.

          I was in the proceas of looking at amazon for new fans now, and the options, and reviews are staggering.

          Im also going to get a new hot end fan for grins, Id love a noctua but not worth the buck board addition imo. so Im open for ideas on options on that too. If noctua had a 24v fan, they would already be purchased.

        #19
        https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...khaus-feedback

        Comment


          #20
          Originally posted by BrickHaus
          Can I ask what fans ypu have on here? Look like 5015 models, but what brand?
          I ask because I have been eyeballing the petsfang duct models.
          I went for the Hero Me Gen5
          The dual part cooling fan and room in front of the cold end fan was a must for me.
          I had issue with un-even part cooling, but mot importantly, i had pretty bad heat creep after 20-30 minutes print in the summer.

          So, i went with 2 5015 part cooling fans and I upgraded to a 4020 cold end fan; also replaced the stainless heat break with a titanium one.


          Originally posted by BrickHaus
          Im torn on the blockhead vs the bullseye.
          Bullseye looks cooler, and utilized the stock 4010 fan ( mines bad anyways so Id have to buy a new one)
          Block head requires a 5015 fan upgrade, and is more compact, and in a youtube video, seems to move more air.
          The stock fan is just about useless ... if you're replacing it, i would definitely go for the 5015, you can always turn it down if its too much ...


          Originally posted by BrickHaus
          I was in the proceas of looking at amazon for new fans now, and the options, and reviews are staggering.
          Im also going to get a new hot end fan for grins, Id love a noctua but not worth the buck board addition imo. so Im open for ideas on options on that too. If noctua had a 24v fan, they would already be purchased.
          I went the cheap stuff, it is working great for me ...


          I also added a breakout board for all teh wiring to the hot end, this allows me to replace components without having to re-wire all the way to the board.
          I dont understand why no one does it ... it makes working on the hot end so much easier ...
          Love my brass ... Love my SSR ... Hard choices ...

          XEMON's phantom double sided feed
          Keep your ATS going: Project rATS 2.0
          My Feedback

          Comment


            #21
            XEMON you convinced me to go withthe hero me gen 5 after seeing the duap fan duct option.

            Ordered parts yesterday, and am currently printing off parts for the hero me.

            Ive been struggling to get my natural pla to print, but I think having clear duct is too cool not to try.


            It doesnt wanna adhere to the bed on the 2 skinny legs so im trying a brim for the first time.

            Im also printing it hot trying to get it as clear as possible. (237)


            The fan base, I printed with supports because I was worried about the supports that span the fan opening. Needless to say 3.5% infill on supporting material is too much. I ended up making it ugly to get my supports off. Im gonna use it regardless, but I may have to reprint one once my nicer duct is made.

            Im gonna get an rgb cold end fan, for laughs. Kinda hope the clear duct carries fan light to my print like fiber optic. If it does I think the rgb will be worth the 2 bucks. Im typically not a lighting guy, but I'm having fun with this.

            Thanks again for your help guys! lmk if I can help anyone else!
            https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...khaus-feedback

            Comment


            • XEMON

              XEMON

              commented
              Editing a comment
              you got the idea, print like crap (mine did) then reprint once you got the printer tuned (I still need to do this ... :P )
              Really cool idea to go clear and add an LED in there.

            #22
            I would STRONGLY recommend you upgrade the bed springs for around 10 bucks, or go with a solid mounted bed. The stock springs on the Ender 3 (all versions) are AWFUL and require releveling after almost every print.

            Oh, and if printing PETG.. I cannot help but recommend Vision Miner Nano polymer glue. It's incredible. Extremely expensive at 50 for a 100ml bottle, but it really is that good for bed adhesion. You can also buy 10ml samples for about 10bucks delivered. (I really wish their was a cheaper alternative that worked as well as this stuff, but I haven't found it yet. Layeneer bed weld sucks for example).

            Comment


            • BrickHaus

              BrickHaus

              commented
              Editing a comment
              For the bed springs. I upgraded those already. I had one spring that wasnt even compressed when I got to a good nozzel height. I honestly think it waa a factor in this printer being a return. New springs made it possible to get a print off.

              For the PETG, I havent tried yet, but figure I will get into it as it seems a superior finished product. Ill check the stuff out, I am tempted to use glue on my bed for pla as it legit breaks free at 61*. Ive been struggling with that still.

              I am trying to ptint a duct in natural pla. Yesterday
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