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What did you 3D print today?

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  • XEMON
    commented on 's reply
    The heat crumbled the resin ...

    The hard wood inserts are the next step if the printed one don't hold up. But they all use proprietary male threads so I'll have to reverse engineer those to ensure proper fit

  • Brokeass_baller
    commented on 's reply
    I had to Google what Keenserts were. At work, we call them Nutserts. If the resin threads are strong enough, the Nutserts are the best way to go. It's what we use after Helicoils fail, and they're quite robust.

  • BrickHaus
    commented on 's reply
    So from that video he seems to say printed threads are the strongest. In the comments people mention printing threads for keen inserts and threading/ setting them in resin.

  • RAZRBAKK
    commented on 's reply
    The Great Equalizer So the body was made by someone on here a few years back. He did a run of AC threaded Trracer bodies.
    1) The dropout changer is a drop in trracer part. No idea on numbers, but I have seen them before.
    2) The body takes spyder detents right at the bottom of the breech for rollouts. Pretty slick.

  • The Great Equalizer
    commented on 's reply
    I'm assuming a Trracer base.
    1) Did you make the 12g changer?
    2) What are you doing for roll-outs?

  • BrickHaus
    commented on 's reply
    So your insert blew it up? Was that with heat while pressing? Or on a pull test after the fact?

    Tapping seems to work though if nothing else. I wonder if inserts for hard wood would work. They are huge, but you may be able to cut the threads in the resin.

  • XEMON
    commented on 's reply
    It works, but the clear resin tend to bubble and streak causing a rough exterior. I am trying a few different brushes and some other coating to get the same results. Will see how it turns out 😜

  • Brandon
    commented on 's reply
    From what I've heard that if you wash, cure it, then brush it with some of the resin, and cure it again that it'll stay pretty clear but I haven't had the time to test it.

  • XEMON
    commented on 's reply
    I'll have to give them a go and see if I can replicate it, but so far it seam very different from one resin to the next ...

  • XEMON
    replied
    Originally posted by JonM View Post

    Does resin melt well with heat from a soldering iron? I use melt-in brass threaded inserts on my pump handles.
    The black resin takes them ok but the clear ... not well 😅
    Here are my threads test in 8-32:
    Click image for larger version  Name:	PXL_20231019_130152413~2.jpg Views:	3 Size:	554.2 KB ID:	461713

    Leave a comment:


  • RAZRBAKK
    commented on 's reply
    Head to http://squarespace.com/CNCKITCHEN to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code CNCKITCHEN.Heat-Set Inserts can not only impr...

  • JonM
    replied
    Originally posted by XEMON View Post
    Testing out clear PGP handles 😁
    Does resin melt well with heat from a soldering iron? I use melt-in brass threaded inserts on my pump handles.

    Leave a comment:


  • XEMON
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks for the support.
    This resin stays relatively clear, but it does get a frosted exterior after the wash. It need post processing to be transparent. I'm working on some those processes right now. I have 2 solid contenders ...

  • Brandon
    commented on 's reply
    I hope the resin stays clear; I haven't had good luck with getting a clear print after the wash.

  • RAZRBAKK
    commented on 's reply
    I've been waiting to see someone do clear resin pump handles. The market is yours.
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