What did you 3D print today?

[RAZRBAKK]

I've been experimenting with some ghost ring alternatives. Really enjoying this translucent filament.





It's difficult to get a good shot of the sight picture, but I opted for fiber optic filament instead of the usual post.

If anyone is interested in trying one of these, I am working through cleaning up the print a bit and have a ton of this filament, so I'd be happy to throw a few of these together at cost to see what people think. Can and will do black/CF-black.

[XEMON]

CNC Kitchen did some great test on that RAZRBAKK posted the link above 👍

[BrickHaus]

Fired up my printers after months of not even considering their existence. Couldn't get either to print a link. I'll have to mess with them some and see if it's something simple.

So, the best thing I did with my printers all night was this cold pull.

[JonM]

I wonder if it would be effective to design a part with a pocket for the insert, print it, then set the insert using epoxy resin or UV resin.

[RAZRBAKK]

Carp I agree, I want to like the grey but this is much nicer. I'm sanding it down as I don't love the gloss. Eventually I'm going to remake all the parts in CF PETG so that will have a nice matte to it.

[Carp]

This looks much nicer than the grey.

[RAZRBAKK]

I feel like I'm getting into reconslide territory with this one. Print quality is massively improved on the black PETG vs grey. Just gotta clean up the stringing a bit.

[RAZRBAKK]

Slow day at work, so I've mostly been printing in between tasks.




I'm starting to think the grey filament is just being problematic.
These were printed a day apart, same settings, both post lead screw change, both dried in the filament dryer for 12 hours or more.
One line near the top is somewhat consistent with each other, but the black filament has gone down MUCH better than the grey.

Still fighting elephants foot. I have my bed cranked because I can't seem to get proper adhesion below 75 degrees, even on the PEI bed.
I'm going to fire up some transparent filament this week.

Lots to tune, but the prints are definitely improving over here.

15 hour full-length pump handle in black coming up tomorrow.

[RAZRBAKK]

I swear I'll post something else soon, just been working through some revisions. I like the size of this one more for sure. Aesthetically I would still like to extend it closer to the barrel but I haven't found the height limit on my Ender 3 yet. Every part is more robust on each revision. I think I'm going to increase my infill and try to knock out as much pump wobble as I can. Probably 1-2 more runs at this guy before I'm happy with it.







You can see my layer issue remains but it's improved a bit. I just replaced the lead screw and Z-axis nut, and i have a WobbleX on the way.

I noticed my extruder is skipping a fair amout since switching to PETG. I guess that is the next thing to address. Not expecting perfection, just the best I can get out of a bed slinger.

I'm going to try sanding this one a bit.

[XEMON]

The heat crumbled the resin ...

The hard wood inserts are the next step if the printed one don't hold up. But they all use proprietary male threads so I'll have to reverse engineer those to ensure proper fit

[Brokeass_baller]

I had to Google what Keenserts were. At work, we call them Nutserts. If the resin threads are strong enough, the Nutserts are the best way to go. It's what we use after Helicoils fail, and they're quite robust.

[BrickHaus]

So from that video he seems to say printed threads are the strongest. In the comments people mention printing threads for keen inserts and threading/ setting them in resin.

[RAZRBAKK]

The Great Equalizer So the body was made by someone on here a few years back. He did a run of AC threaded Trracer bodies.
1) The dropout changer is a drop in trracer part. No idea on numbers, but I have seen them before.
2) The body takes spyder detents right at the bottom of the breech for rollouts. Pretty slick.

[The Great Equalizer]

I'm assuming a Trracer base.
1) Did you make the 12g changer?
2) What are you doing for roll-outs?

[BrickHaus]

So your insert blew it up? Was that with heat while pressing? Or on a pull test after the fact?

Tapping seems to work though if nothing else. I wonder if inserts for hard wood would work. They are huge, but you may be able to cut the threads in the resin.