What did you 3D print today?

[JonM]

I dusted off the printer to make another one of my offset Phantom feed caps now that I got one of Doc's extended dropout valve knobs. My first gen models were all done in PLA before I switched over to using PETG. Still not as clean as the SLS printed ones I have on my Shapeways shop, but it works.

[Lane]

HPA pump bracket to hold the fill tube while not in use

[Brandon]

do you have the file for this ? I was going to attempt to design one but looks like you already did it

[Lane]

Sure, PM me your email and I'll send it over

[Brandon]

Nothing as cool as what you guys are making but I made a pretty clean benchy 3rd print ever

[XEMON]

Congrats 👏 and welcome to the club

[ReconSWS]

Nice Benchy!

[AtomJaay]

Trying out an idea for keeping my stick feed in place using the dovetail on the phantom.

[Rainmaker]

Dang it 🤬

[Alexndl]

That hurt just to watch, would it be strong enough if you cut and acetone glue back in place?
Sold at discount...

[Spider!]

Alexndl Hah, blem.

How does that happen? I've read about it somewhere. Belt tooth slip?

[JonM]

It can happen if the belt slips, if the print bed gets bumped, if there’s a power failure, or if the nozzle gets stuck. Typically it’s a belt issue if the printer is undisturbed.

[Rainmaker]

I'm not sure how many of these particular delrin pump handles are out there, but I had the chance to mess with one, and kinda adapt the dual rod mounting block to it from my PUCKer kit. Had to use different rods, and press in some brass sleeves. Turned out pretty decent.

[Carp]

Your Chadness strikes again!....I like the thumb shelf on that. I've never got to try 1 of those style handles...How does it feel in hand?

[AtomJaay]

Had an ancient and broken quick change, drilling out the old broken lever end out of it didn't go too well right off the bat. Ended up with an easier to use handle but a bit bulky.


The old lever handle was never that easy to use, this one I can pop open with my thumb and slam shut comfortably. I plan on running it "Island Style" facing forward,s so accidental pop-opens are less likely.

[BrickHaus]

Just finished the flexy slug for my wife, havent tried to move the joints yet as she wants to rip the brim off and shes sleeping.

Working on a fidget cube for me niece now.

I really should install my duct upgrade as I could print these a bit better with better cooling.

[BrickHaus]

Woke her up... its not at all flexy... boo. Hahaha

[Spider!]

I usually have to break-in my print in place stuff, flexing them back and forth. Sometimes they just break.

[BrickHaus]

Yeahmy brim went on too wepl and i broke it trying tobreak it apart. Ill make her anotger one with modified settings

[Spider!]

I made this a while back. It's pretty simple but was fun and functional. I drew a fan mount, and made a copy. Moved the copy around, drew an exhaust face, and lofted the pieces together. It had to be supported as it is rather convoluted.

[XEMON]

The first 5 feed block:

[Bulldogr6]

Made someone to watch the thermostat dad life lol

Sent from my E6910 using Tapatalk

[BrickHaus]

Scrapped a print after 3 hours. The corners were already lifting on a 28 hour print.

Trying again with a 6 line brim.

[Spider!]

I printed this months ago. I was using it again today...so nice. It fits on the Husky shelves in the garage. When my shoulders or back get tight, I back up and bull/bear rub right in the spot.

I have three for the different spots. Kind of silly, but it works. I added it to my hook and cap for the same shelves.

[BrickHaus]

Just pulled a rocket mold, but looking for pointers. As I still cant get all of the variables right.

Material: Inland Pla+ ( extruder range 205-225 on the roll)

Was printing at 217, but it wasnt adhering well horizontally, so I manually overrode to 223 to get nice shiny lines.

Bed temp 68 initial layer, 55 after. Printed with a 6 line brim.

Fan turned on layer 6?

All print speeds 20-40 mm/m. Mold took bout 30 hours. Printed as shown, but I removed it to look at it.

Initial layer .2, .2 layers after ( to save time for my slow speeds) 5% infill with 110% flow.

I it seems even burning hot, Im not getting good line adherence. I can blow through this one. ( i have another that looksbetter but I had all flow rates turned up so it over extruded in a few spots. ) this one you can see daylightthrough, and I am hoping the foam doesnt simply grow into those pores. I cqn blow through both surface faces.

I have a hero me printed up and fans set aside, but wondering if a new hot end would help too? Or maybe more settings I can mess with. All I know is,my co workers ender 5 can spit this mold out in 23 hours and it looks pretty nice. So I have a target marker.

Also, bed adherance. I really dont wanna use glue if I dont need to, but the corners of these pull every time i assume its because the layers are printed so slow. Then you start pulling infill lines and running part cooling and... yep! Maybe more brim? Hotter bed? Colder bed?

I still have a lot of learning to do, but I also think I need to tweak on my printer some more to increase the preformance.

[XEMON]

You're right there ...
How many top/bottom layers?

I usually print PLA+ at 245/70

Bump your in-fill to 10 or 15 to get a better support for the top layers. What infill pattern are you using?

[BrickHaus]

7 bottom layers, 6 top, 3 walls this print.

Infill was 5.3% or so, grid pattern. I was fiddling with it to get an X of infill center under both the tail, and head bases as it builds that layer.

I chilled me bed off a bunch hoping to harden the part and stop warping. I saw less warping leaving the bed at 75 lol.

Im gonna have to get a new hot end to print 245 no? It was in the books anyways, but I thought my stock hot end should be kept under 235 to prevent the ptfe tube from offgassing.

[XEMON]

you could lower teh number of bottom layer to 3 or 4, and top to 4 or 5 ...
For sturdy prints, i like to go to 4 layer on the wall, but 3 is more than sufficient.

For infill, i rarely go under 10%, specially if i want a decent roof ... the infill will hold your roof and doesnt cost much plastic.

Bed temp is importent and often underrated, I print nearly everything at 70 (even PLA)

The ender 3 can print up to 260, but realistically, you can go up tp 255 with a stock hot end.

[Spider!]

How's your moisture? I have trouble with PLA picking up moisture and getting messed up. ABS absorbs faster, but seemed more predictable. Even when the filament breaks just sitting around, I can toss it in a dehydrator to fix it.

When I have trouble with mechanical adhesion beds, I try getting rid of bed temperature changes, keeping it steady. 68 to 55 is a pretty big change.

I still keep my glass and glue bed around for stubborn stuff. It can be vicious tough

[BrickHaus]

Moisture could be a factor. Its been try, but my printers in a 12 course basement, so sub grade. Im sure its 45% + humidity.

[Spider!]

45,% sounds good to me. I have to fight for 60%. Filament sucks it up eventually.