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    Well, I've been maniacally printing things and learning a ton.

    Recently picked up an A5 that I wanted to put a TASO Raincover on. Unfortunately, the stock Tippmann barrel, and I can only assume many of the aftermarkets are just a bit too girthy to fit into the old rain cover.

    So I made my own.







    I really need to upgrade from PLA so I can actually use these parts.
    Originally posted by Terry A. Davis
    God said 640x480 16 color was a covenant like circumcision.

    Comment


    • Brokeass_baller

      Brokeass_baller

      commented
      Editing a comment
      The way I understand things is there's enough room in front of the bolt with A5 threads that's it's not an issue. But for 98 threads, it'll catch if there isn't a gap.

      Edit: wait, do you mean pull out the front of the barrel? Or get stuck in the bolt o-ring and pull out the back and into the breach?

    • RAZRBAKK

      RAZRBAKK

      commented
      Editing a comment
      Brokeass_baller I believe he means pulling it Into the breech. The barrel is sized to stop the freak moving forward in the barrel.

    • Brokeass_baller

      Brokeass_baller

      commented
      Editing a comment
      Gotcha. That's what I thought, but I thought I should verify. Lol


    BeardedWorks.com (Your Inception Designs and Shocktech Dealer)
    BW Youtube
    BW Ebay

    BW Email
    I buy Automags and Mag Parts also.

    Comment


      Click image for larger version

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      Some pieces I've been printing over the past week.

      Comment


      • Jackson

        Jackson

        commented
        Editing a comment
        Wexford. I've got one more big +6 hour print left and a number of smaller items.

      • Spider!

        Spider!

        commented
        Editing a comment
        Lol, I thought I recognized the parts, just couldn't remember.

      • pghp8ntballer
        pghp8ntballer commented
        Editing a comment
        Cool. I grew up in Shaler but I live in the Plum/lower Burrell area now

      Brass work was done by Jordan from a PMI 1 and a PGP.
      3d printed the pump handle, both bolt and the double cram and jam
      Click image for larger version

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      💀Team Ragnastock💀

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        Got the telescope mostly together. Still a number of items on the list, but together enough to start looking at the sky. Grabbed a really crappy picture of Jupiter and its moons with my phone. It was way clearer by eye. You could see red bands on Jupiter.

        Click image for larger version

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        Comment


        • RAZRBAKK

          RAZRBAKK

          commented
          Editing a comment
          Wow, that is awesome.

        • pghp8ntballer
          pghp8ntballer commented
          Editing a comment
          Awesome! Not including the cost of filament, what was the build cost? Or did you already have the optics and hardware on hand? Is that a standard camera tripod that was modified or is it a universal telescope tripod?

        • Jackson

          Jackson

          commented
          Editing a comment
          I've probably got about about $350-400 into it. You could buy an equivalent telescope for less. I made some changes to the design to the design to increase usability/durability/etc that added cost.

          The tripod is from my childhood shitty 80mm refractor telescope. It's pretty bad actually. There are tight spots in the axes that make moving it difficult. I need to upgrade that.

        Sorting out some print quality issues and also getting some print tolerance testing in.

        My Zrod was looser than ideal so I'm hoping tightening that will solve the bulging layer issue.
        Attached Files
        Originally posted by Terry A. Davis
        God said 640x480 16 color was a covenant like circumcision.

        Comment


          11.5 hours on the printer today.



          I still think I'm going to extend it another inch or so forward. Comfortable, and decent pump stroke at least.
          Originally posted by Terry A. Davis
          God said 640x480 16 color was a covenant like circumcision.

          Comment


          • The Great Equalizer
            The Great Equalizer commented
            Editing a comment
            I'm assuming a Trracer base.
            1) Did you make the 12g changer?
            2) What are you doing for roll-outs?

          • RAZRBAKK

            RAZRBAKK

            commented
            Editing a comment
            The Great Equalizer So the body was made by someone on here a few years back. He did a run of AC threaded Trracer bodies.
            1) The dropout changer is a drop in trracer part. No idea on numbers, but I have seen them before.
            2) The body takes spyder detents right at the bottom of the breech for rollouts. Pretty slick.

          Testing out clear PGP handles 😁
          Attached Files
          Love my brass ... Love my SSR ... Hard choices ...

          XEMON's phantom double sided feed
          Keep your ATS going: Project rATS 2.0
          My Feedback

          Comment


          • XEMON

            XEMON

            commented
            Editing a comment
            Thanks for the support.
            This resin stays relatively clear, but it does get a frosted exterior after the wash. It need post processing to be transparent. I'm working on some those processes right now. I have 2 solid contenders ...

          • Brandon
            Brandon commented
            Editing a comment
            From what I've heard that if you wash, cure it, then brush it with some of the resin, and cure it again that it'll stay pretty clear but I haven't had the time to test it.

          • XEMON

            XEMON

            commented
            Editing a comment
            It works, but the clear resin tend to bubble and streak causing a rough exterior. I am trying a few different brushes and some other coating to get the same results. Will see how it turns out 😜

          Originally posted by XEMON View Post
          Testing out clear PGP handles 😁
          Does resin melt well with heat from a soldering iron? I use melt-in brass threaded inserts on my pump handles.
          My Feedback Thread

          Comment


          • XEMON

            XEMON

            commented
            Editing a comment
            I'll have to give them a go and see if I can replicate it, but so far it seam very different from one resin to the next ...

          • BrickHaus

            BrickHaus

            commented
            Editing a comment
            So from that video he seems to say printed threads are the strongest. In the comments people mention printing threads for keen inserts and threading/ setting them in resin.

          • Brokeass_baller

            Brokeass_baller

            commented
            Editing a comment
            I had to Google what Keenserts were. At work, we call them Nutserts. If the resin threads are strong enough, the Nutserts are the best way to go. It's what we use after Helicoils fail, and they're quite robust.

          Originally posted by JonM View Post

          Does resin melt well with heat from a soldering iron? I use melt-in brass threaded inserts on my pump handles.
          The black resin takes them ok but the clear ... not well 😅
          Here are my threads test in 8-32:
          Click image for larger version  Name:	PXL_20231019_130152413~2.jpg Views:	3 Size:	554.2 KB ID:	461713
          Love my brass ... Love my SSR ... Hard choices ...

          XEMON's phantom double sided feed
          Keep your ATS going: Project rATS 2.0
          My Feedback

          Comment


          • XEMON

            XEMON

            commented
            Editing a comment
            The heat crumbled the resin ...

            The hard wood inserts are the next step if the printed one don't hold up. But they all use proprietary male threads so I'll have to reverse engineer those to ensure proper fit

          • JonM

            JonM

            commented
            Editing a comment
            I wonder if it would be effective to design a part with a pocket for the insert, print it, then set the insert using epoxy resin or UV resin.

          • XEMON

            XEMON

            commented
            Editing a comment
            CNC Kitchen did some great test on that RAZRBAKK posted the link above 👍

          I swear I'll post something else soon, just been working through some revisions. I like the size of this one more for sure. Aesthetically I would still like to extend it closer to the barrel but I haven't found the height limit on my Ender 3 yet. Every part is more robust on each revision. I think I'm going to increase my infill and try to knock out as much pump wobble as I can. Probably 1-2 more runs at this guy before I'm happy with it.







          You can see my layer issue remains but it's improved a bit. I just replaced the lead screw and Z-axis nut, and i have a WobbleX on the way.

          I noticed my extruder is skipping a fair amout since switching to PETG. I guess that is the next thing to address. Not expecting perfection, just the best I can get out of a bed slinger.

          I'm going to try sanding this one a bit.
          Originally posted by Terry A. Davis
          God said 640x480 16 color was a covenant like circumcision.

          Comment


          • The Great Equalizer
            The Great Equalizer commented
            Editing a comment
            Thanks for the answer to my previous questions. I have set of Staunchy barrel adapters for a Trracer, but I haven't gotten around to getting a pump arm to fit an AC barrel yet. Are you going to be selling these?

          • RAZRBAKK

            RAZRBAKK

            commented
            Editing a comment
            The Great Equalizer I'm not sure just yet. The sizing of this AC threaded body is a little odd. The threaded section is like 1.1" OD and I couldn't find pump handles to fit, necessitating a custom one.

            Also this one isn't designed around the stock trracer feedneck. I'm not against a redesigned version for stock trracers, but I need to pick up a body to get proper measurements.

            Let me iron out my current issues and we can talk.

          Slow day at work, so I've mostly been printing in between tasks.




          I'm starting to think the grey filament is just being problematic.
          These were printed a day apart, same settings, both post lead screw change, both dried in the filament dryer for 12 hours or more.
          One line near the top is somewhat consistent with each other, but the black filament has gone down MUCH better than the grey.

          Still fighting elephants foot. I have my bed cranked because I can't seem to get proper adhesion below 75 degrees, even on the PEI bed.
          I'm going to fire up some transparent filament this week.

          Lots to tune, but the prints are definitely improving over here.

          15 hour full-length pump handle in black coming up tomorrow.
          Originally posted by Terry A. Davis
          God said 640x480 16 color was a covenant like circumcision.

          Comment




            I feel like I'm getting into reconslide territory with this one. Print quality is massively improved on the black PETG vs grey. Just gotta clean up the stringing a bit.
            Originally posted by Terry A. Davis
            God said 640x480 16 color was a covenant like circumcision.

            Comment


            • Carp

              Carp

              commented
              Editing a comment
              This looks much nicer than the grey.

            • RAZRBAKK

              RAZRBAKK

              commented
              Editing a comment
              Carp I agree, I want to like the grey but this is much nicer. I'm sanding it down as I don't love the gloss. Eventually I'm going to remake all the parts in CF PETG so that will have a nice matte to it.

            Fired up my printers after months of not even considering their existence. Couldn't get either to print a link. I'll have to mess with them some and see if it's something simple.

            So, the best thing I did with my printers all night was this cold pull.
            https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...khaus-feedback

            Comment


              I've been experimenting with some ghost ring alternatives. Really enjoying this translucent filament.





              It's difficult to get a good shot of the sight picture, but I opted for fiber optic filament instead of the usual post.

              If anyone is interested in trying one of these, I am working through cleaning up the print a bit and have a ton of this filament, so I'd be happy to throw a few of these together at cost to see what people think. Can and will do black/CF-black.
              Originally posted by Terry A. Davis
              God said 640x480 16 color was a covenant like circumcision.

              Comment


              • BrickHaus

                BrickHaus

                commented
                Editing a comment
                Does it mount on a dovetail? If it does I'd take one. Got a few shooters I'd maybe use it on.

              • RAZRBAKK

                RAZRBAKK

                commented
                Editing a comment
                BrickHaus I'm honestly not sure. I looked into it when I was trying to get accurate dimensions. Maybe I'll print a dovetail and test it out.

              • BrickHaus

                BrickHaus

                commented
                Editing a comment
                It looks like a dovetail. But not sure if a cci feed tube is a dovetail.

                But yeah I'd buy one if so. I have a few brass based guns with rails.
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