Fked up the loop holders the 2 are broken or failed to print because of how I printed it buy so far I can hold like 120 and if I jungle clip them that will be 240
Attached Files
-
-
Barrel sizers for ats markers . These ones I made so each ring 688,687,686,685 all the way to like 670.
this way every ball is sized . I believe this acient paintball archo tech to be far superior than freak inserts. I have both freak incerted ats barrel and the stock one, inhve run test, and they show thatcth stock ats barrel with the rubber multi sizer is FAR more consistent than any 5inch freak I could put in.
I want to make these out of rubber or a simular material the original ones are, any one know any type of good material maybe silicone? I would need to cast them with a mold maybe I could 3d print the mold .not sure how to cast rubber lol but I printed with super soft tpuComment
-
What is the best way to send stl files?
This is just my first version and tested it today with great success it's even better than the stock rubber sizer more consistent fps only 10 -or+ fps , they are much smaller for today's small paint.
I might improve on the designs by adding more rings/ribs with different thickness, widths and heights, but so far I'm really impressed with the my first print,
I'll definitely be playing with this sizer next sunday -
I appreciate an insert thats ribbed for my pleasure.
-
-
Four baffles, and unfortunately rinse clean only.
But it does work.
The green is a second revision, the pink was failed but I figured it'd be a good way to show the inner workings. I'll be adding at least an extra baffle and reducing the diameter. I played around and went with 2 walls and a 10% gyros infill i wanted to allow some sound absorption. Into the device itself. I also tried to emulated an air skive however I'm sure the skives arent at the right degree. I did feel as though the traditional precision could be forgiven due to the bluntness of the ball and it's slower speed in comparison to the real deal.
Also enclosed is the current printing, essentially a cross reference and then use the rotate feature.
Final pic is the drawing I posted.
10% gyroid, wall thickness of 2.
I can push it a little more than that, if this one is functional im going to print thick for the next and see if theres a beneficial db- difference between the two.Last edited by Chemical-x.....ahain; 10-11-2024, 03:51 AM.Comment
-
Comment
-
sometimes its okay to toss old designs or to simply try a different approach, its one of the things I really like about design and printing, I am free to try different approaches and test for my own use.Attached FilesComment
-
-
I know a user already provided their file for an 86 grip to print, but I’ll be machining one for myself and I use 3d print to confirm things before I commit them to metal.. it took printing one for me to realize how they were able to shift the grip forward while keeping all the dimensions the same.
also I previous models had the grips slightly off. Not a big deal on a 3d print.. but unacceptable when it comes to metal so I took the time to really dial in fit and mostly position. There’s a little extra meat I can take off the back but you get the gist.Comment
-
I printed the muffler for Empire/Stella barrels sometime in the spring and it finally failed on me. It was really just the choice of material since it was that weird hybrid PLA sleeve with PETG core. But since it failed, I resliced it for my OG Photon and reprinted it in ABS-like. It feels super solid and will probably last much longer than than my FDM version just knocking around in my gear tub. LOL
Comment
Comment