UULE Mag Body Project

[DieManInTheRough]

I notso recently acquired most of a 68 classic. I want to shoot it, but powerfeed? Proprietary barrels and detents? 150 for a threaded toob? Not when printer go brrr.

I started by measuring around the main body of the valve, and then checking the distance from step down on the valve to the tip of the bolt.

I made a cylinder the correct diameter to snug around the valve and then made another to match the bolt diameter, placing it in front of the other and matching the outer diameter. The head spacing for the bolt to rest comfortably took 2 design iterations.

Next came the barrel threading, I pulled an autococker threaded barrel from Thingiverse and made a negative of it and hollowed it out, adding a cylinder around it the same diameter as the one for the rest of the body, this head spacing also took 2 iterations, I was left with some threads showing on the barrel and a large gap between the bolt chamber and the barrel, I remedied the chamber side but did not want to remodel the thread portion so I added a "shroud".

After that, I grabbed a feed neck and grabbed a rough diameter for the threads and put a hole in the top for the breech. Easy peeazy. Totally done!

Then I realized that I had forgotten that I needed detents, so I went back and dropped a cube matching it to the outside diameter as best I could and redrew my hole. I have not added the holes for detents as I have to buy some to measure and test.

I went back to classic body and took measurements for the sear, on/off, and mounting block and added holes for them. I will be getting some heatserts for the front trigger frame screw, but for now mounting it into the PETG has seeming been solid.

I have not tested it, and won't be letting it out into the wild until I've had my fun with it, thought I'd share while I'm poking though. All in all about 2 hrs modeling so far.

PS;WTB complete classic on/off

[DarkApollo]

The only issue I see is the force of the bolt and spring ripping the body apart. That area is usually reenforced with a steel ring on aluminum bodies (my 2k9 micromag was starting to mushroom because that ring was not installed from the get-go)
perhaps cougar20th can shed some light on that since he makes custom bodies out of decidedly not metal things.

I would love to build one of these out of PA-CF..

[cougar20th]

As darkapollo stated I have been severely infected with the carbon bug in the last several years. But all those do have a metal breech in them that holds the barrel, feedneck, detents and spring face. I would not do it any other way for bodies i sell. Just to much possible liability to take a shortcut.

I have worked with many prototype printed parts as well including bodies. For those i have borrowed the spring cup from my shockwave body. And have not shot them alot.

The biggest thing you can do to give a plastic body a chance of surviving past a couple shots is to have a metal washer where the spring pushes. Same as a agd ule body does. As the micromag 2k9? showed even with 7000 series aluminum it is required to not have the body peen over from the abuse the spring inflicts.

As far as feedneck threads and such you chance pulling those out with the weight of the hopper. Detents and barrels are stationary so they shouldn't give you much trouble.

[DieManInTheRough]

Plans for the feedneck will be whatever I can epoxy in the hole, stick feeds, and small hoppers mostly.
I had envisioned some sort of spring cup or washer, and maybe down the road if I get the dimensions where I want them i can get a few done in MJF, to help combat the layer separation.
These are all issues that I was hoping to hear input on. Thank you!

[DarkApollo]

One option for the feedneck is to use a clamp on style like the EMEK/Etha