Was wondering if anyone here done a cram and jam for either of these pistol. I would think it would attach to the rail and held by some set screws.
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Cram and jam for Zeus and Ariakon
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I've thought about making one, but I'd honestly try to add the spring pins the standard magazine uses to latch. I have never worked up the motivation further than that.
That being said, I think if you utilized that spring latch mechanism, the cram jam would work on just about any stbb pistol.
Man, you wanna sell an extra magazine? i just got word my g2 survived the freak boring procedure ironically. I bought a mcs firestorm mag for mine, but I'd rather an og magazine.
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Originally posted by Chuck E Ducky View PostWhere is a good source for parts I got a leaky one I would like to rebuild for a friend.
For a cram and jam I would think the easiest way would be to bore out one of the magazines at the back end to accept a tube
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MCB Member
- Apr 2021
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- https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/buy-sell-trade/feedback/129612-fredmnkydad10
Originally posted by BrickHaus View PostI've thought about making one, but I'd honestly try to add the spring pins the standard magazine uses to latch. I have never worked up the motivation further than that.
That being said, I think if you utilized that spring latch mechanism, the cram jam would work on just about any stbb pistol.
Man, you wanna sell an extra magazine? i just got word my g2 survived the freak boring procedure ironically. I bought a mcs firestorm mag for mine, but I'd rather an og magazine.
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I used to have an ariakon direct feed that would have been suitable for a cr and jam mod. Might be able to find something similar
FYI if you are working with an ariakon, the parts will be different then everything else. They made almost everything proprietary so it wouldn’t work with the armotech design to avoid lawsuits. Even the magazine retaining pins springs and clips are different. I had a Zeus and an ACP and the mags are not compatible because the pins are different sizes.
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MCB Member
- Apr 2021
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- https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/buy-sell-trade/feedback/129612-fredmnkydad10
Originally posted by Chuck E Ducky View PostWhere is a good source for parts I got a leaky one I would like to rebuild for a friend.
Now I want to set it up for constant air using on/off and a 9 or 13 tank. Bottom of the grip has two holes that are not threaded and also not same pattern for most rails or on/off. Got to figure something out to do this.
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I got it all sealed up and a new CCI piercing pin in it. But it’s not recocking all the way and just bouncing on the valve. Any ideas what it could be. Dose it need paint in the breach to get the blow back it needs?
It re cocks occasionally if I put a lil pressure on the bolt mech.
Sorry if I hijackEd your thread. I didn’t find much info on these things.
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What do the adjustment knobs do at the back. (it seems to shoot the same all the way in as it dose all the way out)
Think it needs more spring or less. The valve spring was not perfectly straight I’m hoping I don’t have to mess with it. It was difficult to get it all lined up and back together.
not sure if I have spider valve springs. (Lots of CCI / Cocker springs)
It’s sealing up good now. It just won’t recock under its own pressure. It’s close because it sometimes recocks if I really slap at the trigger. Think maybe the sear is hanging up.
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Hey Ducky. I've got a pair of Zeus's I still use.
I'm just gonna be honest with you and say that, sometimes, you're just not gonna be very lucky with them. One of mine runs pretty much no problem. My other one is extremely temperamental, and I'm always chasing down a leak, struggling to get it to cycle, or some other sort of issue. The one I have that works really well is an Armotech branded one, the one I have that isn't as reliable is a Warsensor branded one.
Spyder Valves work, and so do Spyder valve springs. The cupseal it likes with whatever valve you're going to throw in can be a crapshoot. Hammer Spring I use is a cut down Tippmann main spring, can't remember if it's 98c or A5 (I'm leaning towards 98c). It shouldn't need any paint to cycle. The design is, quite frankly, flawed on these things. Or the tolerances are all over the place. Likely both. The main spring is really heavy, and you lose a ton of air out the back each shot, since the bolt is designed to sit flush against the body of the marker, and has no O-ring to seal it up. They're all pretty old at this point, and likely pretty well worn, and loosened up (or they just came out the factory loose), so it could simply be that you're losing too much air for it to properly cycle. You could try experimenting with different valves/springs to resolve the issue. I've thought about cutting a groove into the bolt somewhere to fit an O-ring, but I don't have the tools to do that properly, nor do I know where the best place would be to put one.
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