Making the Qloader actually work

[_Boris_]

may be a dumb question, any reason why Qloader can't be motorized? It was designed when LiPos did not really exist, not as common, today you can get very high capacity, high current LiPos easy. A lot of motors are much more powerful, thanks to all the amps you can draw from LiPos.

How reliable is the spring winding? If it's hooked up to eyes directly, it should not be any different than most motorized hoppers and you don't have to deal with pre-winds, unwinds. ... you can probably make the pods slightly smaller too (but that would be a really big ball of wax to open)

[Levi]

Not a dumb question at all. The springs have been pretty reliable, but there’s no reason you can’t eliminate them and create a motorized socket. I’ve seriously considered this myself. You could eliminate some issues by going electronically controlled. The ball stack compression that UvHalo pointed out could be eliminated by backing off the force when idle. Lots of stuff you could do once you go this route. Just a matter of how much effort you wanted to put in.

[thedqlegend]

If anyone is interested in buying any qloader I have a warehouse full of inventory. Please feel free to email me at EDITED@gmail.com with a subject line of qloader.

[Levi]

If anyone is interested in buying any qloader I have a warehouse full of inventory. Please feel free to email me at EDITED@gmail.com with a subject line of qloader.

Very curious.. what is the backstory on how you ended up with a warehouse full of Qloader stuff? Could be an interesting story & I'd love to hear it!

[Carp]

[thedqlegend]

Very curious.. what is the backstory on how you ended up with a warehouse full of Qloader stuff? Could be an interesting story & I'd love to hear it!

Hey Levi saw your email replied as well as sent you some pictures

[thedqlegend]

Hey carp i understand it sounds sus and if you reach out I’ll gladly tell you the same thing I emailed levi

[motherboard]

Note the Single trigger, and home made steel butt stock mount to replace the cheap plastic junk that broke. The bottom half of the SP8 made of aluminum but the top half of the military looking eye candy is just plastic and suffers from some of the same things the Qloader does.

Hey SUS, those Custom Mounting Sockets you're showing look different than the ones I have, are they made of a different type of plastic? the entire thing should have been made of polycarbonate like the outside of the Qpods.

[Havok]

Levi dude i saw you at supergame 58 with this whip, i got my qloader and did some crazy stuff.

[Levi]

Havok Hey man! Yeah, I rocked this all three days. How'd you set yours up?

[Havok]

Havok Hey man! Yeah, I rocked this all three days. How'd you set yours up?

Levi so i just shoved the hose in the magwell and there is enough friction to hold it. my buddy is making a more solid system, i have posted a video on instagram look for Austad_Aviation i cranked it to 25 bps for the gigglies.

[L I T O]

how should you index paint from breach to the spring in the socket? I'll be runnimg mine in an Ion and not sure how much length of tubing I should use. I imagine it would be force fed witht he qloader so a whole paintball will be in the breach. I don't want a situation where half a ball is up there amd when I fire it becomes a blender. Mayne after I take out the loader the paint will drop and nothing is in the chamber. I am still testing with paint before finalizing. Picture added for visualization.

In case this is not public knowledge, the custom socket bracket can mount directly to an M-Lok accessory rail with two or.three m-lok screws and nuts. If you have a picatinny rail, you can get a picatinny to m-lok accessory rail and attach the bracket to it.

[Chemical-x.....ahain]

My interpretation is that the length shouldn’t be stretched, nor should it be bent in a way that makes feeding difficult. It doesn’t look like you have O-rings in place on your tube, and under loaded tension this could cause it to pop off. I think your angles are fine, as the system can handle 90-degree bends if they’re not too abrupt. At this point, you should put enough paint in the line to fill it to capacity, ensuring a round is in the breech—this is the proper procedure for prepping for the day. Starting with an empty feedline and then charging the system will cause paint to shoot directly into the breech at full speed, likely breaking a round. Once you have paint in the line, see if you can insert and remove a pod without breaking any paint. If you do break paint, the line either needs to be lengthened or shortened, depending on what works best for your scenario. FWIW Lowes sells blue plastic 3/4" electrical conduit that can be thermo formed and stays in place under load. But you really do need those Orings on your feed tube. FWIW im not the resident expert on the Q but im happy to share from my remembered experience.

[Levi]

^^Good advice from Chemical-x.....ahain

If you run into feeding issues, you can try lessening the bend angle of the feed hose. If you still have feeding stoppages then you might consider re-shaping the internal radius of that 90° elbow. Post #6 in this thread shows how I did it with mine.

For setting the length of the feed tube, you want the edge of the ball right at the shear line between the pod and socket.
Fill your feed tube with balls and put light pressure on the last ball in the stack. It should sit about even with the inside wall of the socket. About like so...

[L I T O]

Levi Paint seems to feed well, and I hope I don't have to do the expoxy fix on the elow. I will know when I get to the live fire stage of my project. Ball is at the sheer line as it stands (see image). Tubing can be adjust a few milimeters, so I have some wiggle room.

Chemical-x.....ahain Thanks for the tips. I don't have the o-rings in place as I am in the test fitting stage of the custom socket to M249 body. As it sits, the hose is primed with 7 balls. The angle seems good and feeding seems fine though manual manipulation with a full pod. I just need a ring or two longer hose when it goes in permanently.

The other image is the bracket to m-lok accessory rail on my real steel muggle staff. So proof of concept that it will work. That is going on my ATS marker.

Thanks guys!