The only consumables I experience is cleaners,as I hand wash in dawn first to achieve a water break test. Scotch Brite pads for polishing along with polishing compounds for a shiny surface on polisher,and distilled water is used for spraying off parts . The acid bath and dyes are good for awhile. Titanium wire is reusable after use as it’s not anodized. After initial investment it’s not bad. I believe kmdpb would agree.
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A video I made to show how I do splash & Acid wash Anodizing
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Okay wait I have another question
I've always been told tippmann's can't be anodized because of the cast bodies. I was told they melt in the process but after watching the video I realized the only electricity is in acid which is to clear off the original finish. So if one was sandblasted instead to get to bare metal could you then anodize those?
Or is there something specific about the acid that that part of the process has to happen?
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From the few tippmans I’ve seen , I would guess the aluminum is low quality. Anodizing is best done on good grade aluminum such as 6061,when it’s not better grade it has content of other material.I’m not sure what is in tippmans but if it’s low grade it might not make it through the cleaning which is lye attacking the material, desmutting ,again material attacking,and the acid bath for annodizing.hope that helps
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Originally posted by Trbo323 View PostSuper chill watch thanks for doing that
I've question, what kind of consumables are used each time? Like can you use the acid again or do you need a fresh batch for each marker?
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Originally posted by Trbo323 View PostOkay wait I have another question
I've always been told tippmann's can't be anodized because of the cast bodies. I was told they melt in the process but after watching the video I realized the only electricity is in acid which is to clear off the original finish. So if one was sandblasted instead to get to bare metal could you then anodize those?
Or is there something specific about the acid that that part of the process has to happen?
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Originally posted by KMDPB View Post
I've never tried to do a tippmann but I have anodized other castings. As the alloy gets further away from pure aluminum the worst it will take dye. Castings are usually done with an alloy high in silicon like A356. Upwards of 10% silicone which helps the metal flow through the mold. In my experience anodizing castings works fine but the colors when dying will be much more muted and less vibrant. I've also annod some of my own castings that I poured in 6061 and they came out great so it all boils down to the metal used and not the process in which they were made. I have no idea what tippmanns are made of, hell it might not even be aluminum. The most common metal used in die casting is Zamak
I just find it strange that I've always heard that it can't be done and usually it was something around the aluminum melting. I had always assumed the electricity was used to get the dye onto the metal
Also, what's the difference in the process between a matte finish and polished?
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Originally posted by Trbo323 View Post
What's the story with zamak?
I just find it strange that I've always heard that it can't be done and usually it was something around the aluminum melting. I had always assumed the electricity was used to get the dye onto the metal
Also, what's the difference in the process between a matte finish and polished?
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My guess would be that you can anodize a tippmann but it's just not going to look great but idk I'll have to try it sometime.
So matte and polished is how you finish the surface before ano. Matte is dont by bead blasting the part and gloss is done by polishing the part.Gas, Grass or Brass, no one rides for free...
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Originally posted by KMDPB View Post
Zamak is an alloy made from zinc- aluminum- magnesium- and copper. Super strong stuff, low melting temp, and flows like water.
My guess would be that you can anodize a tippmann but it's just not going to look great but idk I'll have to try it sometime.
So matte and polished is how you finish the surface before ano. Matte is dont by bead blasting the part and gloss is done by polishing the part.
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Really great video! I don't think I've seen another that explains a DIY splash job anywhere near this well. I also didn't realize how "simp and cheaple" a setup could be so this looks like a fun project. 😉
How long does did this one take from start to finish? Is there a particular part you'd recommend for a beginner to practice on if tolerances aren't a concern? I was thinking about whether it's worth getting some small 6061 plates but picking up a few junk guns might be cheaper.
I have a vague memory of seeing M98s anodized in solid, lighter colors (from PTP?) back in the day but I'm guessing they were just powder coated....
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Velcor will save us...
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It's nothing related to those photos but please excuse me while I go change my pants
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Velcor will save us...
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First photo looks like it was taken in the early 2000s
Very cool
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