Dye rotor conversion for emf100

[hmcl281]

Anyone been able to get a dye rotor internals in a dye box mag or the dye rotor attached to a umag adapter and able to reliably use it? I can get it to reliably feed but once it stop it does not reliably start again.

[hmcl281]

I used mine all weekend and it was wicked fun.

Here is the best video to convert your box mag.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=t9hNtSAjhsE

Thank you for the reply. I have no problem with the conversion, just can not get it to work reliably. Read comments online how over time it will start to stop working reliably. My rotor works perfectly when feeding down a feedneck but forcing the balls up a breach it does not work reliably.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Could it be something to do with the tension setting on the Rotor? I have a 3D printed “warp feed” which I think is the U you are talking about. It seems to work well, but I haven’t used it other than shooting in the back yard, so not sure if I’d have the issue.

[hmcl281]

Could it be something to do with the tension setting on the Rotor? I have a 3D printed “warp feed” which I think is the U you are talking about. It seems to work well, but I haven’t used it other than shooting in the back yard, so not sure if I’d have the issue.

I'm using my box mag spring and also tried adding a smaller spring to it. It does not feed reliably with the box mag or the 3D printed warp feed. Once you stop the flow it does not want to continue unless you shake it.

[The Inflicted]

I've had much better luck using Halo-based loaders, especially the first-Gen prophecy, with my warpmag than with my Rotor.

[hmcl281]

I've had much better luck using Halo-based loaders, especially the first-Gen prophecy, with my warpmag than with my Rotor.

I want to try to stick with the rotor since I have a dye box mag. I heard the halo works really well but hate taking them apart to clean. Tried it with the Z2 but does not seem be strong enough.

[Frmrspec]

A couple of fixes, 1.) make sure to remove the “detent” in the box rotor, 2.) max out spring tension (screwing in) and 3.) bend the micro switch so that it takes the full spring tension before it shuts off(gets depressed)..

also I’ve had much better luck modifying the boxmag motor instead of a straight swap of an LTR motor. They look the same but are not (at least weren’t in the past)

[Chuck E Ducky]

Turn the tension all the way up and make sure you use good lithium ion batteries.

All rotors jam when the battery’s die or get weak. Make sure they are fresh name brand quality batteries. I always grab the lithium ion. They are more money but last twice as long and always perform flawlessly for me. It makes a big difference especially when you’re adding extra stress of making it feed in a loop Straight up vs working with gravity.

[hmcl281]

Was thinking about putting the actual box mag motor into my R1 motor box and attaching the stock rechargeable battery to it. Looks like the R1 uses 4.5 V and the rechargeable battery is 7.5 V.