PMI-1 Project

[JonM]

My Secret Santa sent me a nice project gun this year. I put the finishing touches on it this evening and I'm pretty happy with the results.

The seals all needed to be replaced and it was missing a few small parts, but it was nothing I couldn't fix or fabricate myself.

Before:

After:


I replaced the missing feed cap with a 3D printed and sanded part I made.


The rear feed plug was replaced by one of my 3D printed extended feed plugs.


I drilled & tapped the lower tube for an RVA. The bolt was also missing a lug, pin. and rear set screw, which I was able to replace with set screws. I had to tap two holes in the bolt to take the set screws to keep the bolt from separating.


I also ended up replacing the original grips with another set of PMI grips I had with the foil stickers still intact as well as replacing the Philips frame screws with Allen screws. I'm still debating whether to eventually upgrade the grips to the PMI rubbers I like and whether or not I want to invest in a 12-gram fast changer. I also may or may not do wedgits on this one. I guess no gun is ever really done.

[Alexndl]

If you do wedgits, a tutorial with some tips would be nice, I was thinking performing the same mod on mine

[JonM]

I’ve done them on most of my brass markers. I can post up some more detailed instructions for you. In a nutshell, the most important part of doing wedgits is to measure exactly where the middle of the ball will sit. You should also use something like a socket wrench inside the barrel to prevent it from crushing when you start to hammer on it. I’ll do a more detailed tutorial when I get the chance.

[Alexndl]

Yes it was the socket wrench part I was more concern to not crush the barrel, I was thinking using a wood dowel the proper size place inside but was not sure it would be strong enough.
I wanted to ask this question here in a few weeks, when you have the chance I would like if you can post more detail

[Diomedes]

Can I recommend a speed gate on the *front* of the feed tube? Really quick reloads and feeds really well.

My opinion is that to be *really* usable, brass Sheridan need wedgets, a fast CO2 changer, and an RVA. A speed feed of some kind and quick-strip bolt setup are close to essential but not quite, particularly if you have an extended, leashed feed plug, as you do. And "nice to have" are feed tube slots, nice grips, a trigger shoe, and if you go all-out, a dropout slot.

But definitely go for that fast CO2 changer.

[JonM]

Yeah. I've seen your PMI-1 before, The modifications you mentioned certainly make it a more playable marker. Many of them are mods I've also made to other Sheridans in my collection.

Here are a couple examples of the Sheridans I keep in my lineup:





When I initially started this project, my plan was to see how much I could do to it to make it work again as well as upgrade what I could with little to no money invested in it (more of a personal challenge I took on, really). Nearly everything done so far was completed using either parts I already had on hand or fabricated myself. To date, I think my total investment in this project has probably been under $5 in materials. My only real investment so far has been my time in front of a computer, at my printer, and behind a workbench. I'll likely end up hammering in wedgits like I do with my other brass guns. That also meets my personal challenge of not paying for upgrades on this project. As for the quick strip slot, I'm debating that one too. On one hand, they do make stripping the bolt easier. On the other hand, the accidental slip of a cutting wheel can make it look janky. I'll probably forego the drop out slot though. The RVA has already been taken care of. I ended up drilling and tapping the lower tube for a set screw. I also cut down a nail to act as a solid surface for the set screw and mainspring to press against.