I had something up on the old forum about this, but not many details or pictures... I've since sold the marker that I did the conversion on, but another member on here asked me to try my hand at another one for him, and I remembered to take pictures this time. 
So....
I start with the body clamped in the vise - threading a SS screw into the body mounting nut helps with removal once the bond has been broken.
β
It's either brazed or silver-soldered on - regardless of the attachment method, you'll need MAPP gas at minimum to get it hot enough. I'm lucky enough to have access to an oxy-acetylene torch with a brazing tip at work, and a boss that doesn't care if I use it when I'm not busy, so that's what I use.
β
Get it just hot enough to break the bonding and remove the nut... once it's off I use a bit more heat to keep everything hot and scrape off what's left of the solder.
β
After the nut's off, I temporarily install the body into an old rail and mark out the required holes, then drill them. I got ahead of myself and drilled the on-off hole, barrel detent hole, and body mount hole all at the same time, which was a mistake... I was off a bit and needed to adjust their locations with a die grinder. What I should have done was locate and drill the body mount hole first, so I could lock the body into the rail and then use those pre-existing holes to locate and drill as needed.
β
Once the body mount hole is drilled, you'll need to file a flat into the body for the mounting nut to sit flush against. I haven't found dimensions to be crucial, just make sure it's flat and centered on the body in order for the nut to sit properly. I forgot to take a picture of that, but once you have the nut off you'll see what's needed - just copy that in the new hole location.
Once I had the holes drilled and the nut fitted, I secured the nut in place and brazed it on. Silver solder would also likely work, and possibly conventional solder... the main objective is to obtain a strong bond between the nut and body, JB Weld won't cut it here. Remember, the bolt spring is pushing on the body every time you fire the gun, and there's likely a hopper full of paint hanging off the top - there's just a bit of stress on it.
β
Once it's attached, clean up any extra braze or solder - you'll need a smooth surface for it to fit back into the body rail. I also ran a 10-32 tap through the nut to make sure the threads were nice and clean, in case there was any crud on the threads from heating and brazing.
β
Then, mount the body back into the rail and verify it's at least mostly vertical. I ended up having to adjust the nut a bit on mine, but got it as perfect as the old MK.1 eyeball can get it.
β
Once I was happy with it, I ran it through the bead blaster to give as close to a factory appearance as I could get it, and voila.... one vertical feed body. The feed neck needs to remain that long for the project this body is destined for, but it's very simple to cut it down and install a Lapco universal clamping feedneck, which is what I did on my original build.
β
The "correct" way to do this would be to remove the feedneck, patch the old hole, re-locate the spot and drill the body for a vertical feedtube, and solder or braze the feedneck back on. Unfortunately I don't have access to a TIG welder or mill, which is what I feel I would need to do it that way. This way is much easier for somebody with a drill and some technical ability to create a cheap vertical feed body. I also can't take complete credit for the idea - I saw it on Facebook a couple of years ago with a vague description of what needed to be done and figured out the rest.
There is one downside and that is that the original sear slot and holes are just barely visible from the side of the gun. I found with the body painted black they are almost invisible and no one would notice unless it was pointed out to them... but if that's a concern, don't do this conversion.
So....
I start with the body clamped in the vise - threading a SS screw into the body mounting nut helps with removal once the bond has been broken.
βIt's either brazed or silver-soldered on - regardless of the attachment method, you'll need MAPP gas at minimum to get it hot enough. I'm lucky enough to have access to an oxy-acetylene torch with a brazing tip at work, and a boss that doesn't care if I use it when I'm not busy, so that's what I use.
βGet it just hot enough to break the bonding and remove the nut... once it's off I use a bit more heat to keep everything hot and scrape off what's left of the solder.
βAfter the nut's off, I temporarily install the body into an old rail and mark out the required holes, then drill them. I got ahead of myself and drilled the on-off hole, barrel detent hole, and body mount hole all at the same time, which was a mistake... I was off a bit and needed to adjust their locations with a die grinder. What I should have done was locate and drill the body mount hole first, so I could lock the body into the rail and then use those pre-existing holes to locate and drill as needed.
βOnce the body mount hole is drilled, you'll need to file a flat into the body for the mounting nut to sit flush against. I haven't found dimensions to be crucial, just make sure it's flat and centered on the body in order for the nut to sit properly. I forgot to take a picture of that, but once you have the nut off you'll see what's needed - just copy that in the new hole location.
Once I had the holes drilled and the nut fitted, I secured the nut in place and brazed it on. Silver solder would also likely work, and possibly conventional solder... the main objective is to obtain a strong bond between the nut and body, JB Weld won't cut it here. Remember, the bolt spring is pushing on the body every time you fire the gun, and there's likely a hopper full of paint hanging off the top - there's just a bit of stress on it.
βOnce it's attached, clean up any extra braze or solder - you'll need a smooth surface for it to fit back into the body rail. I also ran a 10-32 tap through the nut to make sure the threads were nice and clean, in case there was any crud on the threads from heating and brazing.
βThen, mount the body back into the rail and verify it's at least mostly vertical. I ended up having to adjust the nut a bit on mine, but got it as perfect as the old MK.1 eyeball can get it.
βOnce I was happy with it, I ran it through the bead blaster to give as close to a factory appearance as I could get it, and voila.... one vertical feed body. The feed neck needs to remain that long for the project this body is destined for, but it's very simple to cut it down and install a Lapco universal clamping feedneck, which is what I did on my original build.
βThe "correct" way to do this would be to remove the feedneck, patch the old hole, re-locate the spot and drill the body for a vertical feedtube, and solder or braze the feedneck back on. Unfortunately I don't have access to a TIG welder or mill, which is what I feel I would need to do it that way. This way is much easier for somebody with a drill and some technical ability to create a cheap vertical feed body. I also can't take complete credit for the idea - I saw it on Facebook a couple of years ago with a vague description of what needed to be done and figured out the rest.
There is one downside and that is that the original sear slot and holes are just barely visible from the side of the gun. I found with the body painted black they are almost invisible and no one would notice unless it was pointed out to them... but if that's a concern, don't do this conversion.
,and i guess it would be expensive to send it to someone to do it for me
Comment