Update.
I finally got my hands on these markers.
They work! (mostly)
The Stingray is missing the top frame pin. It is, basically, a Stingray. The pins were all stuck in place, but I eventually got them out to inspect the internals. Pretty good, although the bolt needs cleaning.
The Avon GT2000 worked fine, just had lose screws. I figure it was set pretty low since I got 60ish ball on a 12g... It's actually a pretty sweet STBB,
The Bushmaster is missing a screw, and has the wrong cup-seal. It "works" but the cup seal is for a larger dia power tube. I guess Mr. Bacci will be hearing from me. At one point, while I was troubleshooting, the main spring hammer and power tube all flew across the garage into the boxes where my Dad keeps old bolts and nuts and nails and stuff.
► VERY smooth pump stroke. Once I get it ironed out, it'll be a really nice marker.
They all needed lube (the Sting Ray didn't start cycling for about 5 shots, but once the lube dispersed it began cycling like a normal Stingray).
Pictures soon. Off to find more 12g's.
Update.
The Bushmaster has stopped working.... The sear keeps slipping off the bolt.
I'll fix it, just not today.
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Not a bad buy...
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Originally posted by Rolling Thunder 67 View Postyou are correct about the double trouble trigger for the PMI / VM. As for the air assisted hopper familiar with them,but never seen one on a VM. i believe they were an APP product and are still available if you wanted to go old school.
http://www.allenpaintball.com/retailframeset.html
That "Turbo Loader" looks like a development of those old VM hoppers. I did play against a couple of VM guys near Grand Rapids, MI who had the pneumatic-agitation hoppers. I had my 1st Desert Fox and they were curious about it, so we traded markers at the range for a bit. It worked, and the VM was fun - I remember the bolt/hammer was so heavy it gave the marker pseudo-recoil. Took a few shots to get used to that.
I may try to get a turbo-loader for the Avalon (it seems appropriate to have an "electronic" semi with a pneumatically agitated hopper). I am guessing the installation is the same as on the Spyder.
I may have to grab a couple of the TAC-50's as well...
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you are correct about the double trouble trigger for the PMI / VM. As for the air assisted hopper familiar with them,but never seen one on a VM. i believe they were an APP product and are still available if you wanted to go old school.
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STBB's are actually nice little markers. More compact than the in-line blow-backs.
I remember the PMI-III/VM-68. It was a beast and a gas hog (some had TWO tanks), and it was glorious. I remember that some had an air line going from the bolt (I think it was the top tube) to the hopper to keep the balls agitated and feeding smoothly. And wasn't there a 2-way trigger? ... Double-Trouble trigger?
It looks as though the grip frame is from a Zap ZXS-1000E.Last edited by Ironnerd; 05-20-2021, 07:47 PM.
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Spent some time trouble shoot STBB for a pawn shop so have gotten to know them pretty well.
and when they didn't flip quickly,they usually end end on my possession. Given they weren't held in high regard by most players or a entry level marker,usually only takes 1 or 2 games of being out gunned by someone that has a tricked out marker before they dump there Spyder. Ran into this back in the day with a VM -68, against the pump players,was called a holder,as it would shoot a whooping 9 bps. And it happens to be the heaviest STBB ever made..
Got 2 of those too!!
all I can say is run what you bringand have a good time.
STBB are the same as the acronym KISS.
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Thanks for the Pic. What you have there is a frame off a ZXS,another Spyder clone from NPS, if i remember correctly.
I have 2 of these also,1 board is like yours and the other has the jumper to let you go full auto.
This frame will definitely mount to the GT. Glad to see that your grips are not the crappy acrylic ones. They have a tendency to crack around the screw holes when people get a little torque happy with a screw driver, there also a bugger to replace as they are not a common shape or screw pattern. Bonus is this frame doesn't require a 9.6 V battery to run,healthy brand name will keep you in the game.
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Originally posted by Rolling Thunder 67 View PostAny chance you got a Pic. of the frame and the Board,pending what you have you might be able to go full auto, 10 BPS "if" it has a 2 pin set up with auto silk screened on it, it would require a jumper from a computer. you might be able to build a sleeper and keep up with the big boys.
Drop a pic if you like,glad to have helped.
RT 67
20210519_214127[1] by Iron Nerd, on Flickr
The frame has no name on it. It's just a black plastic frame with a pretty simple board. Wish I knew what kind it was so I could maybe program it. Right now it has two modes; Semi-auto and off.
And ye olde Spyder (pretty bad pic... sorry)
20210519_214059[1] by Iron Nerd, on Flickr
Last edited by Ironnerd; 05-19-2021, 10:06 PM.
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Any chance you got a Pic. of the frame and the Board,pending what you have you might be able to go full auto, 10 BPS "if" it has a 2 pin set up with auto silk screened on it, it would require a jumper from a computer. you might be able to build a sleeper and keep up with the big boys.
Drop a pic if you like,glad to have helped.
RT 67
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Originally posted by Rolling Thunder 67 View PostHello ironnerd:
any of the concave( round base) Spyder frames will fit,you may need to stack a couple washers in the rear hole as the GT has a deeper profile and if you use either the screws from the GT or Spyder without washers the screw will bottom out before the frame is tight to the body.
The GT frame will not mount to Spyder as it uses a slightly different style sear on the front,which requires a longer milled slot,which Spyder usually don't have.
Have fun tinkering.
I have a spare electronic grip frame. I think I'll try it out on the GT. It is a bone-simple device - the trigger hits a µ switch that actives a solenoid to trip the sear. Since it can only do normal semi (no ramping, full-auto, or busts) so it should be mostly compatible... and it looks th have the same hole pattern as the bottom line.
We'll see in a coupe of weeks, I guess.
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Hello ironnerd:
any of the concave( round base) Spyder frames will fit,you may need to stack a couple washers in the rear hole as the GT has a deeper profile and if you use either the screws from the GT or Spyder without washers the screw will bottom out before the frame is tight to the body.
The GT frame will not mount to Spyder as it uses a slightly different style sear on the front,which requires a longer milled slot,which Spyder usually don't have.
Have fun tinkering.
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Rolling Thunder 67 , just an odd question, but will the GT2000 accept a Spyder trigger frame? I'm asking for a friend...
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I sold a Stingray once... Never again! I miss that clunky plastic beast.
BUT... If you have a Stingray in another color, I may trade marker bodies with you.
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Nice score! I still dream of owning every color Stingray they made. From what I gathered though, the colored ones have a more brittle plastic and are better suited to collect then actually use. I too would like a stab at it if you ever sell!
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