Hobby air brushes: Recommendations

[Deus Machina]

I've heard good things about ProAcryl, but I've only seen the reviews using it with brushes. Let me know how it works thinned down. The Amazon reviews suggest it will work well.

And FWIW, I can't guarantee the Vallejo thinner will work well with anything not Vallejo. There's a good chance it will and it has for the other acrylics I've tried, but test before mixing anything big. Different companies do tend to use the same, or similar enough, materials.
If it doesn't work out, water should get you by.

I do see a specific airbrush cleaner, which is great to have. For the more basic cleaning, water and some pipettes or eyedroppers are a good start. A lot of people just use ammonia-free glass cleaner, which I'll be switching to my when self-mixed airbrush cleaner runs out (which is basically distilled water and alcohol). Stretches out the expensive stuff for when you need a deep clean.

https://www.youtube.com/@barbatosrex9473 has a lot of good tutorials on airbrushing techniques and maintenance.

[the_matrix_guy]

Pro Acryl doesnt make a thinner, but they recommend Vallejo. From what I read on Reddit and YT: they air brush really well. Actually barbatosrex has a video on them which I hadnt seen till now: just skip the first minute or two where hes naming the colors:

https://youtu.be/OhtoADsuvKQ?si=VsMYaMRSkD3BEP8Y

thanks for all the tips. I’ll definitely look into the glass cleaner, I’ve also seen Gun cleaners get recommended, the spray can type…

[spartan985]

I know I'm a bit late to the party, but another vote for the Iwata HP-CS! Also can vouch for Vallejo and pro acryl being great paints, airbrushed or not. Vallejo thinner is all i use unless it's Tamiya, then I use theirs.

[the_matrix_guy]

Thanks for chiming in

[cellophane]

I can't comment on the airbrush side of things, but for paint I like the AK Interactive, Pro Acryl, and most Vallejo. Their Game Air line is great as they don't really need thinning for painting straight out of the bottle. The GW paint is generally OK as well, but the pots they come in are the worst. I need to buy a pot holder at some point... Reaper paints are garbage. Don't buy them. The Mr. Hobby Primer / Surface Finisher are awesome, although a bit more than a Rust-oleum spray can.

For masking you can use tape for lines, or silly putty if you are masking off something complicated. There are also specialized masking putties, but I've never used one.

Brushes- I really like the Princeton Aqua Elite, Raphael Imitation Kolinsky, and Escoda Perla. Decent artist brushes but not breaking the bank. I always recommend shopping at your local art supply place over the intertubes- but I realize cost / convenience is a factor.

And someone mentioned a mixer- totally worth the purchase if you plan on painting a lot. I have the Lab Genius Vortex Mixer, but there are others out there.

If you want some cool tips on vehicle painting / aging / wear & tear- Night Shift makes some amazing pieces & videos: https://www.youtube.com/@NightShiftScaleModels

[Deus Machina]

Good to hear I'm not off base on the thinner. A lot of acrylics use the same chemicals as a medium, so it's worth a try with anything new.
Tamiya uses a different solvent. Alcohol-based, maybe?

Concur on the brushes. Once you find ones you like, make notes and take care of them. It's worth paying $30 for a brush or two if they're perfect and last forever. I have a few good ones, but since my uses are a little abusive, I do like to keep a pile of cheap ones. Like the 30-pack of 0, 00, and 000 off Amazon. I'd ruin the good ones, might as well ruin cheap ones instead.
My favorite cheap brushes came from Michaels, a pack of brown taklon. Not gold (which aren't bad), not white, brown. Love 'em. But they wear out and they're often out of stock.
Again, half the fun of hobbies is experimenting.

I just instantly subscribed to that channel, cellophane. My current projects are 'achievable dream cars of my youth'--things like an Evo and Skyline... that I'm making look like they were passed around and driven the last 25 years before they got imported.

[the_matrix_guy]

Thanks, fellas.

For brushes, I was looking at these as my main set:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CP6ZCDBD/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A298OIU5371ORF&psc=1

But Aliexpress has a lot of brushes with good reviews, with users surprised by the quality/resiliency. And theyr'e dirt cheap:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806816889399.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.31cc38dau TKqhs&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

[the_matrix_guy]

I just instantly subscribed to that channel, cellophane. My current projects are 'achievable dream cars of my youth'--things like an Evo and Skyline... that I'm making look like they were passed around and driven the last 25 years before they got imported.

Thats super cool. I was actually looking at slot cars right now. And this 1984 Audi Quattro Rally car with dirt weathering. I dont think it came like that from factory, someone did that custom:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/387464173997

Are you doing Tamiya model cars or RC

[Deus Machina]

Are you doing Tamiya model cars or RC

Models, of whatever brand catches my eye.
Tamiya? Great, they're cast very well, pieces match up nicely. Implant some scratches here and there, paint a quarter panel a different color or the like, rust in the crevices, etc. Old but repaired.
AMT? Sometimes the casting is garbage. So where a body panel is warped or blobby, that's where I paint rust and mud and add in some wrinkles. The hood doesn't lay flat on one corner? Add a ratchet strap. That Datsun 280Z's been around.

For instance, you can really get the point across with a couple 'bent' radiator fins and duct tape.

[Deus Machina]

Once I get any of the three past the 'almost done'. Serious, just a few steps left, but it's the whole '10% work for 90% result' deal. :P
Brushes look like a good place to start. I have a similar set of just the extra fine ones, which have been working okay but feel a little stiff. Different color bristles, though, so maybe a different material.

I worked at Michaels for... way too long. My advice is always to get a basic set, learn which ones you use most and what you like and don't like about them, and then get really nice ones just to cover that. A bunch of mismatched great brushes are a lot better than a set of 'meh' ones.
Or if you're like me and your techniques are abusive, find a bulk pack of the ones you use a lot of. Save the good ones for the nice minis and models.

[JeeperCreeper]

You can grab sets from the Jungle website that
are cheap enough that you wont feel bad if you ruin them. They also have decent variety packs. Just make sure the brushes are compatible with the paint you are using.

[the_matrix_guy]

I noticed for weathering effects, a lot of the builders use the fluffy brushes (not sure the technical name) by wiping off etc. also a lot of the abuse comes from wiping the excess paint I would imagine. So there isnt a well established brand of brushes everyone swear by?

[JeeperCreeper]

Oh this tickles my 'tism. I got really into models in '20

Excuse the dust. I'll have to clean the Supra and show off the blue metallic paint. That ones a Tamiya kit.

The Chevy is a replica of an 86 K2500 I owned. I stole the cowl from a Camaro hood. Added wires and such.

The coup isnt finished, but it had a 2JZ GTE, and I cut the doors out and made hinges.

The grey primer Ford has a blown Hemi engine, and lowered.

The white Ford is lifted and 302 EFI swapped.

The Corvette is box stock, but I did focus heavily on the red paint. Again, I'll have to clean it.

I also bought a really nice Jeep Rubicon, but just like my full size Jeep, its not finished. Its a Meng kit, I highly recommend them, even though they are more expensive.

Oh what were we talking about? Oh I use a Badger Patriot airbrush, with paint thinned to a milk like consistency. I've also used rattle cans if I want a specific color that I cant find in a little Testors bottle.

[JeeperCreeper]

Oh and get plenty of thinner, and a cleaning kit for your airbrush. Taking care of that is #1 to getting consistent paint flow.

[the_matrix_guy]

Oh this tickles my 'tism. I got really into models in '20

Excuse the dust. I'll have to clean the Supra and show off the blue metallic paint. That ones a Tamiya kit.

The Chevy is a replica of an 86 K2500 I owned. I stole the cowl from a Camaro hood. Added wires and such.

The coup isnt finished, but it had a 2JZ GTE, and I cut the doors out and made hinges.

The grey primer Ford has a blown Hemi engine, and lowered.

The white Ford is lifted and 302 EFI swapped.

The Corvette is box stock, but I did focus heavily on the red paint. Again, I'll have to clean it.

I also bought a really nice Jeep Rubicon, but just like my full size Jeep, its not finished. Its a Meng kit, I highly recommend them, even though they are more expensive.

Oh what were we talking about? Oh I use a Badger Patriot airbrush, with paint thinned to a milk like consistency. I've also used rattle cans if I want a specific color that I cant find in a little Testors bottle.

Those are rad. Very nice work. You could leave the dust on the Chevy k2500. It looks like weathering.

very cool. I had a 2jzgte swapped into an 05 Is300
in my early to mid twenties. That car was pushing 800-+ whp.

Thanks for the tips. Yeah, I ordered my first air brush. Mostly for slot car racing scenery building and some Battletech stuff that shooter311 printed out for me a while ago and I never got around to building. But after seeing all of the model builders on YT, I feel like this is only the beginning.

and I still need brushes, glue, sandpaper, a side cutter … haven’t gotten a chance to look into it today, but I came up with those brushes I linked a few posts ago (yesterday)

[JeeperCreeper]

I forgot how much detail I put into this. Alot of hand painting with super fine tip brushes. But the body paint was Testors enamel thinned down, then wet sanded and polished.

[JeeperCreeper]

Certain details can be weathered. I did a black wash to look like engine grime. It was watered down acrylic flat black. For the rust, I applied spots of brown, then hit it with a cotton swab to smear it. It helps if you deform the plastic, too, makes it more convincing. Some of these have gone through hell ever since my daughter was tall enough to climb up and get to these.

[the_matrix_guy]

Those are lovely.

They don’t look damaged. Or did you have to go back and fix them?

[SignOfZeta]

I haven’t checked this thread in a while so I’ll say a few more things.

Matrix Guy needs to do more work and less shopping and talking. You have more than enough opinions from others by this point. You need to start painting and develop your own opinions.

There is NO WAY you will be able to exist only with pre-thinned paints. Model Air is supposed to be that but it always requires thinner making me wonder WTF it has that name for. The only pre-thinned paints I know of that are truly that are Testors Metalizer and those are just metallic colors. Alclad is the same way. There are some race car model paints you can buy from some companies…mostly it isn’t done and all these are oil based.

Mixing is one thing. You never have to mix colors if you can buy what you want. However you will be thinning every time you spray.

Airbrushing is WORK. It’s a huge pile of equipment YOU need to master YOURSELF and the only way to do that is with EXPERIENCE. You will be dealing with setting pressures, thinning ratios, the noise, the smell, interruptions from family etc while trying not to ruin the work or the equipment. Its not easy. I've been into modeling since I was a kid but I intentionally gave up on AB for about 15-20 years and moved to only rattle cans and brushes because that was more practical at the time. Airbrushing can be a huge hassle. Its worth it when its worth it but not when its not. Now I have a nice permanent setup with a booth and stuff and everything is good.

You will break parts, waste paint, "ruin" models, etc. You need to do all that to be good. Its mandatory, unfortunately. You need to screw up everything, fix it, and then be someone who never worries about screwing up anything again because you've conquered everything at least once after screwing it up first. Fear nothing because you can fix anything. That is the happy model maker. There is no other version of the animal.

I use Vallejo, Mig whatever only for realistic weathered stuff. As paint to create realistic military things, old engines, windmills, rusted out tractors etc it’s great but it has serious drawbacks. It hates to stick to anything and it fades, even indoors. If I were making something for a museum I wouldn’t even consider Valejo. It’s one step up from kids finger paint in too many ways. After a decade under the heavy lights my T Rex model or whatever would be bleached of half it’s color.

Acrylics…kinda suck. They don’t flow as well. They dry too quick. They aren’t as durable physically and they fade. Their main attraction, that cleanup is easy because it only requires water…even that is only half true. While you can clean up acrylic with water it never *really* cleans up like the way enamels and lacquerers clean up. When you put Tamiya airbrush cleaner through your brush to clean out the lacquer you just sprayed…it’s gone! Oil based stuff cleans up waaaaay better with thinner than water based stuff cleans up with water. It also never dries on the tip, ever.

The idea that you’re going to use masking tape to make lines on the road…seems crazy. Do people do that? For hundreds of track pieces? Are you sure? All the slot cars like this I’ve had came with lines on the track parts already. Is this still not the case? Is the goal to sand them all off and put new ones on? If so, why? And why not just use tape itself to make the lines? Or stencils? I don’t understand this part. Lastly, most race tracks don't have a lot of lines on them anyway. I wouldn’t worry about the lines so much.

[the_matrix_guy]

I haven’t checked this thread in a while so I’ll say a few more things.

Matrix Guy needs to do more work and less shopping and talking. You have more than enough opinions from others by this point. You need to start painting and develop your own opinions.

The stuff I am getting is basic. The brushes are basic. If I am asking for input regarding the brushes is only to make a better buying decision. Obviously, the most important thing is to start doing it myself. I haven’t even received the racetrack or any supplies, so calm your tits.

Yes, I understand I need thinner and mix in a 1:1 ratio or a little less for metallic. Hence why I ordered thinner and thinner medium for the flow. And yes, racetracks have painted lines and painted designs. Some more than others. And yes, racetrack model builders do use masking tape. I also want to use the masking tape to do the rumble strips.

And yes, obviously everything is a process and you gotta be willing to try things. You sound mad for some reason and I’m not sure why — but feel free to take a breath and ignore this thread if it makes you feel stressed for some reason.

But every real life racetrack has stripes and rumble strips etc but some have actual painted stripes between the track. Some more than others. Some have no grass — and all painted turf / or cement. Some a combination of the two.

….and modelers use masking tape to replicate them to varying degrees. I plan to do both natural terrain and some painted stripe patterns in addition to the lane stripes, rumble strips,

[cellophane]

Thanks, fellas.
For brushes, I was looking at these as my main set:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CP6ZCDBD/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A298OIU5371ORF&psc=1

You really do get what you pay for with brushes. There is a reason those brushes are a dollar each. For applying scenery textures (mud / dirt / etc) they are fine, but for actual work on anything I wouldn't go near them.

Based on the picture you posted most of the work on the track could be done with basic hobby acrylics that you can pick up just about anywhere - although I don't know how they will work with an airbrush. Could also be done with rattle cans, but bottles will cost less. Golden also makes good paint that won't break your budget - it is in the same general price range (per oz) as Valejo, Army Painter, GW, etc.

I would also recommend setting up some test pieces. I have a few pieces of cardboard that I primed on my desk and a few models that I messed up / don't like for testing colors & techniques on. I've also tried to make some textured bits out of oven-bake clay, but so far they haven't quite worked out.