Garage decision Lift or No

[Seajay]

Need some superior highly experienced decision making opinions.

I have a 2 post 9k lb lift, but I had to move it from my backyard shop. The shop was part of a old farm massive shed, which I transformed now into horse stalls and grooming rooms. (I'm not sad at all, no really (I'm very sad))

My garage is pretty decent though and I had planned to move it there. My issue is I think my garage ceiling is only 10 ft. It's also insulated and drywalled.
I really only plan on using the lift for cars, my zero turn, and probably a 30 HP tractor at some point. I don't think it could do my larger 1500/3500 vehicles even with unlimited ceiling height.

Do I try and make it work in my garage? Do I sell it, get a couple nice floor jacks and stands?
I was super excited to have a lift, but it isn't doing much good laying on my floor in pieces at the moment.

[NONOBLITUS]

From a car and sheet rock guy I would vault the ceiling to accommodate. Take down the drywall and insulation over the lift and reframe higher to the rafters. Laying on your back sucks in the garage.

[JeeperCreeper]

As another car and sheetrock guy, I agree 100%

[punkncat]

The two aspects I would be considering are in relation to the width of the garage. If you install this, are you still going to have room to park other vehicles in the area?
In the case that you install it are you still going to have storage or space to move on the wall side of the lift?

If the answer to both of those is yes, I would follow nono's advice in regard to the ceiling.

[Seajay]

Yes there is plenty of side space, it is a separate garage from the house, enough to have workspace around where the lift would sit. Not sure on overall dimension off hand but I could fit 4 cars in there, and it has a single large garage door.

That's 2 to keeping the lift!

Alright, so I'll go find someone to tell me how much roof modification will be.

[punkncat]

I have come to a point where kneeling down or laying down to do work on a vehicle is commonly more a deterrent for doing so than the work itself. I have a friend with a shop that on occasion I can go there and use the shop lift if they are slow. That has been super rare since all the shortages and folks working to keep older cars going longer.
One of my friends father lives somewhat close to me and has a very nice lift, garage, welder, and other tools I don't have. I have been working on buttering him up for occasional use.

[Lt. head-shot]

I was in a similar position, but the depth and poor quality of the concrete pour in the garage killed that plan. It would not be stable enough in my case. Just something to check in on.

10 foot is doable depending on the cars you are dealing with. I'm currently using QuickJacks to work on an old Porsche. That could go way higher on a lift. My Jeep... not so much.

[Seajay]

Well I'm assuming the concrete in the garage is appropriate, I can try to measure from the outside for depth, as it is gravel driveway. I'm guessing it is the normal 6 in. depth, which is fine for cars. Not so much trucks or heavier vehicles, which 8 would be better. The slab looks very good, even has drains in it.

I think I've got a plan. Check the slab is suitable, install the lift, work on raising the ceiling. That order so I can at least use it, getting under my zero turn is a real PIA.

[WORR13]

good idea, check the concrete thickness first (big safety issue). i would try to do all possible to keep that lift

[Tarsun2]

i almost bought a lift. wish i did....
i used to work in a garage and going from a lift to laying on youre back under jack stands is worse than youd imagine.

[Grendel]

Having a lift is always better then not having a lift. This is true even if you only need it occasionally. If you already own it (not making payments) then install it and make is usable.

[JeeperCreeper]

I have looked into this before, and you will definitely need to have your slab checked out. Lifts have some very specific requirements for the floor

https://www.automotiveliftexperts.com/concrete-floor-requirements/

[Grendel]

Even if you slab is insufficient it is an easy thing to cut out the sections needed and pour new footers to safely attach the lift.

[JeeperCreeper]

Definitely could patch in what's needed. He just needs to be aware how much might go into this endeavor

[Seajay]

I have looked into this before, and you will definitely need to have your slab checked out. Lifts have some very specific requirements for the floor

https://www.automotiveliftexperts.co...-requirements/

Yes definitely! Have to do it right, or they can be very dangerous. I found it interesting that site said a 4 inch pour is fine for 10k lb and under, I was under the impression 6 inch was the minimum.

Hardest part will be drilling the concrete, I did a bunch of that last year with the wood beams for the stalls, that is hard work.

[JeeperCreeper]

Well concrete comes in different mixtures, plus the configuration of the rebar is important. It's not just a simple measurement

[Mr. Hick]

If you can swing the loot, you are always better off building another bay that is laid out for the lift and tool boxes than converting a building that wasn't designed for it.

[Jordan]

Having a hoist is always better than not having a hoist, unless it's situated poorly... jamming a hoist into a tight cramped space makes working on anything a chore.

[jwatts]

I have a lift in my garage and absolutely love it. However when I had my house built, I knew I was putting in a lift. Minimum height requirement is 12’ (that is the absolute minimum for a twin post full size lift) and I barely squeezed it in there. Also, 6” concrete is needed for the floor. No more working on the floor or at my shop. I can work on my cars when I want and stop when I want.

[Seajay]

Welp, a general over view of the garage I don't think it is going to work. There are a couple of drains running through the floor, and the foundation has definitely settled less than perfectly so there are cracks running across that would cause me concern. The floor is also slightly angled in two different directions to use the floor drains.

Not sure what I'm going to do now. I could potentially pour a pad somewhere else on the far side of my property, but there are number of projects in front of that. I'm thinking I might just sell it and get a nice floor jack. If and when the opportunity presents itself for a lift that would be part of a larger shop project

[JeeperCreeper]

Sad. Personally I'm looking into a 2 bay steel building for myself. Seems like the quickest way to get the structure up. I'll have 1 bay for the lift and the other for whatever so essentially room for the car and 2 Jeeps in the winter.