Audi experts, low pressure (in tank) fuel pump?

[punkncat]

The low pressure fuel pump in my car is failing. The local shop is wanting a grand-ish to swap it out. I have done similar in tank pumps on other vehicles, so that aspect doesn't bother me, however I am having a hard time getting clarity on what will be the proper part and procedure.

2013 A4 Quattro 2.0T CPMA (flex).

I have looked on Rock Auto, ECS Tuning, FCP Euro and everything I can find indicates that the 2013+ vehicles use a different pump assy. The pump that is specifically designated as the "flex" pump is listing for nearly $400 and up (well up). The "OEM" pump is listing for low to mid $100. IDK if it's possible for me to use the lower priced pump in this car.

The other aspect is me being a bit gun shy. I have read a great deal of accounts that seem to indicate that if you disconnect the battery for the car, which one would do to change a fuel pump, that the car may not come up and crank again, possibly in reference to some security protocol? IDK if true or not.
Also, unaware as to whether this fuel pump will need to be hooked to computer program to "learn it in" to the car.

I know it seems silly, but if I hasn't asked before changing the brakes my parking brake would have locked down. I would appreciate some guidance from you seasoned Audi guys.

Thanks

[Jonnydread]

Chuck E Ducky is an Audi guy, he may be able to point you in the right direction.

[VonBraun63]

Flex fuel pumps flow more fuel to compensate for e85 and it’s ethanol content. The sensor attached to the engine reads the ethanol content and adjusts the fuel pressure. (Very basic description)
as far as the battery goes there’s a lot that goes into it from a Audi/vw stand point. Simply the car system reads the battery level and adjusts the charging system to keep it full or shunt voltage. When you replace a battery you have to tell the system what battery is installed (AH/CCA) If it was a quick swap you can get away with it because the capacitors nils the charge but if left to long they drain and the system needs the battery info to start car so it knows what to do.
Second you’ll need a way to prime the pump when the new one goes in.

If you plan on owning the car for awhile buy an OBDelevan scan tool. It will do everything you need.

[punkncat]

^ My understanding is the scanner must be "VAG" type. I got an OBD eleven type scanner and it doesn't connect to the car. I have been suggested a few types to follow up on but can't recall the exact name of them right off.

What I am gleaning from this is, get the more expensive pump marked as "FLEX" and so long as I just disconnect and reconnect the same battery in car it should not pose any issues?

[VonBraun63]

Yes to the battery as long as it’s not disconnected to long as to drain the capacitors all over the car and on the ecu. Obdeleven does have vag capabilities. I use it regularly on Vw and Audi. Last week was on a 2014 Q7 TDI before that was a 2009 jetta and 2004 GLI. Contact them if it’s not connecting. If it’s an older model I know they were Android/apple specific.

[Jordan]

Guys, it's OBD 2, NOT eleven... you're making my head hurt. Unless you're talking about some brand name thing, in which case it still hurts.

[Chuck E Ducky]

I believe it stands for the 11th generation of OBD2 scan tools. The newest ones can do A lot of what the VW / Audi Specific scan tools can do. But not everything for instance Like I can see what codes the car has thrown even if you erase them with my VAG tool. I can recode key fobs, trick Air ride to sit lower, remove stupid features like the hill assist for manual cars. My cars are all coded so I can double click the unlock /lock button and all the windows roll down or close normally you need to insert the key in the lock and hold it in the unlock position. I can do that from Across the parking lot so the car cools off as I walk up to it.

[punkncat]

Thank you VonBraun63

I found an exploded diagram and specific information as to the model pump (the AN) which is the higher priced one. It was advised on the Audi forum to also get a plug for the tank heater as well as a new ring for the gasket seal. Looking at a DIY video indicates that I might need to chance driving her around a bit to get this tank empty as well. Looks like I can make one hell of a mess in the back of the car if I don't.

I like trying to have an idea of what I am getting into before starting to turn wrenches. Hate having to stop midway cause I effed up and have the wrong stuff.

[Chuck E Ducky]

I would not put an aftermarket pump in it. I would use the VIN to insure you're putting the right pump in it. There can be mid year changes, happens more then you would think. Watch some how-to videos YouTube is a great resource. You should be fine disconnecting the battery for a short period of time just don't let it sit long like that. Its not that hard of a job it just sucks and stinks up the shop. Make sure you do it in a well ventilated area away from anything that can make it go boom. I open the shop door and I have a big fan I place far away to keep air moving when I do pump/tank replacements.

[latches109]

Audi pump only… unleessss you plan to go big turbo later on

[VonBraun63]

It’s a vag-com type scan tool. For those who are confused.

[Chuck E Ducky]

Oh that thing is bad ass! Just ordered one.

[VonBraun63]

Yes it’s Bluetooth. As long as your device (phone/laptop) is connected to WiFi the dongle will connect to it Bluetooth. Yes you can code but it has a feature that it quick loads long codes for things you would change on whatever model you are working on. ie S line gauge sweep at start up on non S line cars.

[latches109]

I was never a fan of their credit system, and always requiring internet connection. Foxwell works great for basic stuff and VCDS if you are serious.