Who has machine tools?!?

[netsurferdude2]

I dont know what I've gotten myself into....





I need to remove a wall in my home shop before I bring it home so I am storing it at work.

Graziano SAG-12. In my searching the internet for information, DocsMachine, I saw an old post of yours from 09 about picking up a Graziano. Did you ever get it?

http://www.lathes.co.uk/graziano/

[Biscuits]

I don't have much room as well, this one worked out pretty well because its pretty small.

[XEMON]

That's a great price!
If love to add a mill to my arsenal but don't have enough room ...
Where I live this machine would go for $2K-$3K ...

[Biscuits]

My Select Machine Company little mill. it's no Bridgeport, but it is a pretty decent little machine for hobby work.I got the mill, DRO, set of inch and metric R8 collets, a rotary table, and a bunch of tooling. best 1000$ I've ever spent.

[DocsMachine]

Ha! I've been rebuilding that turret lathe I posted a page or two back, and finally this evening got around to reassembling the "carriage". It has at the front a "nut" for a leadscrew, rather than a much more common rack-and-pinion like most engine lathes.

Anyway, that 'nut' is threaded, of course, for the leadscrew itself, but also on the ends for short threaded tubes that act as guards, to help keep gunk and swarf off the screw. The tubes on my example were of course long gone, so while i was assembling it, I figured I'd make some new ones. I did a little measuring, came up with a root diameter of about 0.840" and a 20 TPI... and those numbers struck me as suspiciously familiar.

Yep, sure 'nuff. They're Autococker threads!



Now keep in mind this machine was made in 1939. That's not a typo- it was made before World War 2.

I was able to run one of my 'Cocker taps in by hand to clean some of the gunk out of the threads- they're exactly the same as 'Cocker threads. I can't screw in an actual barrel, of course, they're not deep enough. But I thought it was pretty cool that by pure happenstance, there was that eighty-some-odd-year-old connection in a machine that I'll be using in part to make more barrels.

If anyone's interested in following the rebuild of the lathe, I have a full thread over on the Tinker's Guild.

Doc.

[DocsMachine]

Half a Bridgeport? I assume you mean you're co-owner with another fellow, and not that you only own, say, the column, ram and knee castings, and are saving up for the rest.

So with that die head... I’ll sort out what I have and send you some better pictures.

-Hit me via email. I don't always have tome to keep on top of all the various boards' PMs and whatnot. And no hurry, I still have a few weeks before the turret is back up and running. (Despite having bought it as more or less ready-to-go-out-of-the-box. [grumble])

Took an old SP1 barrel cut the threads off and gave it cocker threads. Came out really good.

-Noice. Feels good to be able to make stuff like that, doesn't it?

Now, for your next challenge, turn a thread to fit a Shocker or Ion.

Doc.

[ReconSWS]

I own half a bridgeport fullsized milling machine, with digital readout, and some tooling. Haven't used it in 2y My old milling projects need attention, but 3d printing is just too easy and cheap compared to aluminum.

All I have to do is clean the optical scales of the readout to fix the gaps, add new gaskets so no more dust can get in, and I'll be golden to mill again!

[Freerider_79.1]

+1 for little machine shop.

the banjo was pulled away for the pic. It was right up at the chuck for the work.

I do have a die holder for the tail but for that I didn’t have the 5-40 die. A lot my garage time is after the kids go to bed so I try and get by with what I’ve got. I was going to have an opportunity to test the next day and wanted it done.

that also has a side story.... I had ordered an inception pneumatics kit. The first one I received was not useable. And had to go back.

When I installed the 3 way and saw the timing rod was too short.... I wasn’t even a little surprised. This project needed to be put to rest.

So with that die head... I’ll sort out what I have and send you some better pictures. I’m on the fence about getting rid of it but the reality is I don’t know how to use it and may never use it. Might even break it lol. I’m a bit of a hoarder so when you get something useful it’s hard to let go.
I’ll send pics and we can go from there.

with the threads... when I first started trying, I jumped the drive belt to the low range to get 80rpm but it was a real pain. Lathe is against a wall and limited access on the sides.... it’s a lot for 1 job. Been threading at 160rpm now.... little bit fast for me but it’s been going really good. Just need to be really focused. Buddy of mine gave me a few old Mauser barrels to chop and practice on. They were de activated and had been plugged so chop away.

you mentioned cocker threads.... the other day and just for the sake of doing it. Took an old SP1 barrel cut the threads off and gave it cocker threads. Came out really good.

[DocsMachine]

to be honest with you it’s been sitting since I brought it home. It does have a straight shank on it so needs maybe an mt3 arbor with a flange to mount it.

-While I have seen people put Morse shanks on them and use them in the tailstock of a conventional lathe, that's really iffy and a good way to potentially break something. The die head works by being manually fed into the work- that is, you keep moderate pressure on it as it "screws" itself forward- until it hits a stop. After which, the head continues 'screwing" itself forward a bit more, and that action pulls the head out a bit, which trips the opening mechanism.

You can see it in my video- the head "floats" a bit on the mounting, and then pops forward to release. You can set up a carriage stop for the carriage, or a similar stop for the tailstock, but really, compared to single-pointing, it starts getting pretty fiddly.

The straight shank is designed to fit in a turret lathe or screw machine:



I wasn't joking, by the way. I'd like to buy it for my new turret, if you're of a mind to sell. The only die heads I have right now are that same little Geometric, and an antique Jones & Lamson that according to the internet, is the only one of this model that exists anywhere. I can't find parts, chasers, documentation or even mentions of it.

If that thing's got a 3/4", 1", or 1-1/4" shank, it'd be ideal for my machine.

I pretty much forced myself to retry single point... my first experiences were on my mini and it was a nightmare. Completely different ball game with this machine.

-Yeah, the Asian-import mini-lathes are generally terrible at threading. In part it's because even the absolute slowest speed is often too fast- not in a "surface speed" way, but in a simple human reaction time way.

I cut a banjo bolt the other day which was a good little project with threads.

-Looks great! In your first pic of it, it looks like you left the stock sticking a bit far out. You want to "choke up" on the stock and not leave too much sticking out. That improves rigidity and surface finish, and is less likely to chatter.

Also needed a longer timing rod and didn’t have a 5-40 die (have set for die head). That was a real pain and had to rig up a follower to get it but did get it.

-I hate trying to single-point anything smaller than 10-32, and even that can be a pain. Especially in stainless.

For the smaller threads, the classic trick is a die holder. Something that fits in the tailstock and holds a conventional threading die, which you usually turn by hand. The lathe just serves to held everything straight.

Little Machine Shop and a couple other sources have ready-made ones, and there's plenty of plans online for other versions. Clickspring has a video on making one, and I think that vid has a link to plans.

Doc.

[Freerider_79.1]

Thanks. I found my die head in the link and you get a like and subscribe.
to be honest with you it’s been sitting since I brought it home. It does have a straight shank on it so needs maybe an mt3 arbor with a flange to mount it.... 🤔 or something. Mostly curious because it has about a dozen sets of dies for common threads.
I pretty much forced myself to retry single point... my first experiences were on my mini and it was a nightmare. Completely different ball game with this machine. But I’ve also been keeping it pretty basic.... some unc, mostly unf and unef. It feels pretty good when you cut a screw by the chart and it works...
I cut a banjo bolt the other day which was a good little project with threads. Also needed a longer timing rod and didn’t have a 5-40 die (have set for die head). That was a real pain and had to rig up a follower to get it but did get it.

[DocsMachine]

With that tool post... of course the supplied t nut didn’t fit so one of my first lathe projects was mill a new nut.

-That's standard. There are so many different sizes of t-slot on various compounds, that nobody supplies a finished nut. That's virtually always a "cut to fit" proposition.

there’s a picture of the threading tool.... if someone can point me in the direction of some information on this that would be great.

-That is what's known as a "die head", it works like a threading die, but "pops" open when you're done. Here's a video I did almost a decade ago, when I was running a batch of custom halfblock 'Cocker pump arms. That's a teeny little 5/16" Geometric head, yours is I think a Coventry. Yeah, here's a PDF on Coventry heads that ought to help you out.

Looks like somebody's got the front cover on backwards, on yours.

Now, that said, die heads are really not meant for standard engine lathe use. They're intended to use on screw machines and turret lathes. People certainly have used them on conventional lathes, but they can be fiddly, and swapping chasers- if you even have the right thread- is time consuming.

And I don't just say that because I have a turret lathe (see previous posts of mine ) and want to buy it off of you. Really, for engine lathe use, I strongly recommend learning proper single-point threading. You don't have to worry about having the right chaser on hand, you don't have to keep changing chasers, it's easier to 'fit' a loose thread, etc. etc. (Plus I don't think that head's big enough to, say, thread a 'Cocker barrel. )

And on the chucks, I've done the same thing. I use 'soft' jaws a LOT, and so I bought a second 3-jaw for my regular lathe. That way, switching from a regular chuck to soft jaws is as easy as swapping the whole thing, rather than pulling bolts. AND... the jaws stay true. You don't have to re-turn them every time you swap, which of course makes them last longer.

Doc.

[Freerider_79.1]

Thanks doc...

the previous owner warned me about the gap.... and he had removed it once. Said the bottom of the gap section needed to be resurfaced then shimmed. He strongly recommended not to do it ever again.

The wedge style tool post was one of my first purchases, with 6 holders, a knurler and blade holder. I came across a company called “accusize”. Definitely not going to see their stuff in a production shop but decent quality for home. Plus they ship from Toronto which is a huge plus for me.
With that tool post... of course the supplied t nut didn’t fit so one of my first lathe projects was mill a new nut.

the porta band is awesome. I really like how tight the blade runs and would never go that tight on a manual adjustable saw. It rips through everything. And yeah on/off foot switch is a must.
I googled portaband stand and got so many different ideas... mine hangs from the grab handle location and also gets support under the trigger handle so it’s really locked in. I milled a block that bolts in place of the top grab... can post a picture if anyone is interested...

one of my most used tools is one that I made... its bolts to the backside of the spindle and indexes the chuck. Made from an old worm drive gear box.... can post that too

there’s a picture of the threading tool.... if someone can point me in the direction of some information on this that would be great. And another 8-10 sets of dies not pictured.

D1-3 camlock 👍

[russc]

I just made an adapter plate for my Taig and got the Consew motor running. The pulley sits a little high on the input shaft because I used 1/2" Al plate, so I might have to tweak things, but right now it works like a charm. Big improvement for sure.

[DocsMachine]

she’s a single owner 1984 14x40 2hp single phase, made in taiwan. Pretty much like new.

-Nice. Taiwanese-made stuff, especially these "consumer grade" machines, are generally built better than mainland-China stuff. Looks like a nice setup- probably a D1-3 spindle, almost certainly big enough you can stuff a 5C closer in there. If you use that kind of thing.

Do yourself two favors: One, never, never, never remove the gap from the gap bed if you can possibly help it. Taiwanese will be better about that, but there have been plenty of stories about Chinese-made machines where the gap was fitted with shims- sometimes body putty or newspapers- and if you ever take it out, you're basically never able to get it back in square and true.

And two, grab an Aloris-style dovetail quickchange tool post. You can get decent import sets, like Phase II or Shars, for a couple hundred, and if you shop around, you can find additional toolholders for maybe $20 each. CDCO usually has 'em on sale, in the AXA size sometimes down as low as $10 each, but I've heard it's sometimes a crapshoot. Occasionally you get the back-alley rejects- though when I ordered half a dozen, they were all just fine.

The bandsaw... my old saw crapped out and the Milwaukee’s were on sale. Hands down the best bang for your buck bandsaw under $500 and a stand made from scrap.

-I wound up with a 'spare' Portaband a few years back, and I've been meaning to set something like that up. Ideally, what I'd love is to have it clamped more or less permanently to the corner of a workbench, and with a "foot pedal" switch. Walk up, step on the pedal, cut your part, step off. Quick and easy.

Doc.

[Freerider_79.1]

Excuse the picture angles...
I had the little 7x14 mini for about 5 years but some of my projects started to grow and exceed what it was capable of. I was only planning on going a little bigger when this new machine pretty much just came to me. I responded to a wtb ad for a mini and the guy knew about this unlisted machine that was way too big for his shop so I got the number. It was a 5 hour drive just to go see it so I ended up buying based off pictures for $1200 Canadian with tools and a pile of materials.
But it was in a basement of a house with a 3500lb milling machine sitting next to it. My buddy bought the mill.
The guy was moving into an assisted living situation and everything had to go. Kinda sad to take the guys stuff knowing what it’s worth to buy new. he said the job he retired from was with the medical department at the local university modifying tools. I have no reason not to believe that and if you saw his shop you probably wouldn’t question it either.
she’s a single owner 1984 14x40 2hp single phase, made in taiwan. Pretty much like new. I can’t even remember everything it came with.... 4 jaw, soft 3 jaw, regular 3 jaw, rotary table. Box of various size cutters hss and indexable, with about 200 inserts. I believe it’s call a symmetrical threading tool? And a box of dies to go with it. Taps, dies, hand tools, measuring tools.... on and on. Not even going to mention all the materials... but probably well over $1200. Few hundred lbs of aluminum stock, ti, brass, bronze....
My garage floor has a pretty wicked slope so I welded up a new stand for it with screw jacks built it to the legs. Option 2 was pouring a level pad and I don’t plan on being at this location long enough for that.
As far as machining I’m self taught with the help of youtube... but I can tell you this... single point threading is so satisfying 😁 I work as a boilermaker/ welder for a day job.
The bandsaw... my old saw crapped out and the Milwaukee’s were on sale. Hands down the best bang for your buck bandsaw under $500 and a stand made from scrap.