Camper electrical and battery options

[Trbo323]

I've already been talking about this on an RV form but some of the responses are not as helpful as I would really like so I'm asking you guys since I know there's a lot of straight shooters here

So the wife and I purchased a 2011 Coleman E3 pop-up camper last year and are getting it ready for this next camping season. The electrical system could use some work. Currently there are two batteries on it one is a flooded acid and the other is a sealed battery I believe an AGM but I'm not positive. Regardless I know the batteries have not been treated the best and are getting a little older so I'm thinking about just replacing them. Before that happens though I'm going to be installing a cutoff switch and battery charger on the trailer to act as a maintainer.

This is the charger I am heavily leaning towards

https://a.co/d/iOFYOIk

And here is the cutoff switch

https://a.co/d/cK1kyIJ

The charger I am pretty set on the on-off switch my biggest concern is how to mount it and protect it from the elements. It's kind of strange because in all my searching around there are a lot of unoff switches out there but how to mount them is basically a big question mark. So my biggest question I suppose is if I figure out a place to mount that switch will having the leads exposed on the bottom be a concern?

For the batteries I was looking at these guys

https://www.renogy.com/deep-cycle-agm-battery-12-volt-100ah/#op=%7B%22id%22%3A1357%2C%22options%22%3A%5B%7B%22optionId%22%3A%222588%22%2C%22value%22%3A%221654%22%7D%5D%7D

One of the people on the RV form describe them as a "decent" but wouldn't really elaborate on why. I'm pretty novice when it comes to knowing much about RV batteries when I can say that we have been looking in this 400-ish price range to get a pair of batteries so I know stuff like optima is out there and really good but also way out of our price range.

I am pretty set on AGM style batteries though the lack of maintenance is one of the bigger draws because the camper has a nice battery box security setup it's also kind of a pain to get into the less I can open up that box the better

Thoughts? Opinions?

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[Melrosejedi]

Well welcome to the world of camper ownership,and beware as these things are build with the balsa wood we built flying airplanes with. Keep it dry and hope for the best. As for the charger, its a 10 amp which will be working on two batteries, so it’s doable. The disconnect switch is a 200 amp and is a fine choice. When you connect the positive cables on the back , I personally would cover with rubber boots and seal up with silicone.im wondering if you could mount in the battery case with the lever outside the case. Cover the lever with a piece of rubber to keep rain and snow off. The batteries is a tough one as the prices have gone through the roof. Get the best you can on your budget,and keep em charged. This is why rv batteries die,we just forget to charge em. Flooded batteries are my choice as i can monitor water level as compared to sealed. Good luck and hope you build a wealth if memories as my family has done.

[Shane-O]

I would recommend buying a brand name switch. like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Grote-82-2103-Battery-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B00460DIOK?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

You do not need high amperage rating on a camper. Ive seen several no name brands fail, one almost caught fire. There are nicer ones that are used in boats and campers like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Battery-Switch/dp/B000MMDLB6?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

As for batteries. We always used standard deep cycle batteries. Wal-Mart or local rural farm store is where I prefer. usually 80-90 dollars each and they last 4-5 years if kept on a maintainer. Depending on the box you use for batteries, there may be room to mount your on/off in the lid, or in the camper near the fuse box/converter. The Renogy batteries look decent for the price, but I have not heard anything about them. For AGM batteries, Odyssey has been much better than Optima batterys.

And another piece of advice. Look at your tires, find the date code. Replace every 3 years. One blows and they tear up alot of stuff. also, I ran my tires at max psi on tire, they can be a little rougher ride, but will not build up heat as much and give you better odds of avoiding a blow out. AND check the pressures before leaving the house and before leaving the camp ground. They do make a sensor system that has simple valve stem caps that can help alot.

[Levi]

That disconnect switch is a "panel mount" style. It mounts through a hole in a piece of sheet metal. Like this..

There's other styles of disconnects if you don't have a good way to mount this one. Here's one example:

https://www.amazon.com/Disconnect-Selector-Position-KeyLine-Chargers/dp/B0CBTKFM21

I've got a couple of those Noco chargers and have been pretty happy with them. A very fine choice imo.

*Edit*

Shane-O makes a good point on sticking with namebrand stuff. Beware... crimp connectors, fuses etc... there is a ton of dangerous no name junk on amazon that can cause fires. Louis Rossman tested some of this stuff recently and if I remember correctly it took like 6 amps to blow the "2Amp" fuses. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B90_SNNbcoU

[SignOfZeta]

I would avoid AGM. You’re bound to do something silly and lead acid is much much more durable against freezing, heat, impact, and low state of charge, etc.

Buy both of your batteries of the exact same brand, model, and vintage. They should match. Then make sure your charging system is hooked across both batteries. That is, don’t wire everything to one battery and then run two lines connecting them. The chassis ground should be on one battery and the positive on the other battery. This way the wear is even. You want to drain both at the same time, not one and then the other.

[SignOfZeta]

That disconnect switch is a "panel mount" style. It mounts through a hole in a piece of sheet metal. Like this..

There's other styles of disconnects if you don't have a good way to mount this one. Here's one example:

https://www.amazon.com/Disconnect-Selector-Position-KeyLine-Chargers/dp/B0CBTKFM21

I've got a couple of those Noco chargers and have been pretty happy with them. A very fine choice imo.

*Edit*

Shane-O makes a good point on sticking with namebrand stuff. Beware... crimp connectors, fuses etc... there is a ton of dangerous no name junk on amazon that can cause fires. Louis Rossman tested some of this stuff recently and if I remember correctly it took like 6 amps to blow the "2Amp" fuses. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B90_SNNbcoU

Wow. I just found something I can accidentally step on that will bend a little and then make a whole lot of sparks.

[Trbo323]

First off, thanks for all the replies, there were more replies here in the first hour than the first 4 days on the RV forum. I'll have to take this in pieces

Well welcome to the world of camper ownership,and beware as these things are build with the balsa wood we built flying airplanes with. Keep it dry and hope for the best. As for the charger, its a 10 amp which will be working on two batteries, so it's doable.

I actually talked with noco a bit about the charger. My original plan was their 2x2 charger so 2amps and can hook to two separate batteries. I was thinking that the repair function might need to work separately on the batteries but then realized they would be hooked in parallel anyway. I mainly wanted the charger as a float charger as any bulk charging would be done through the camper inverter. Noco said their chargers don't work like that because leaving a battery on a long term float can lead to over charging so instead their chargers wait until the batteries discharges to something like 12.5v and then applies the full rated charge until the battery is at 12.7 again. Since mine are hooked in parallel there's no need for a charger that can hook to two separate batteries.

switch is a 200 amp and is a fine choice. When you connect the positive cables on the back , I personally would cover with rubber boots and seal up with silicone.im wondering if you could mount in the battery case with the lever outside the case.

Like shoot some silicone into the boot?

Ideal scenario I would put the switch inside but it's pretty tight as is. Unless those batteries I'm looking at are a lot smaller than the ones I have I doubt it will be an option.

Good luck and hope you build a wealth if memories as my family has done.

Oh we have already had some. The wheel falling off on our first trip while doing 75mph was.... Well a memory.

You do not need high amperage rating on a camper. Ive seen several no name brands fail, one almost caught fire. There are nicer ones that are used in boats and campers like this.

I haven't thought about that actually. Ok new plan, if possible I'd like to avoid spending $80 on a switch. I'm a trucker and we typically have battery cut offs on the rigs, ironically they look almost identical to that $80 one. I'm going to check with a few repair shops and see how much I can get one for. I figure if it can handle the battery bank of a big rig (especially when starting) then it can probably handle my camper.

Odyssey has been much better than Optima batterys.

I'll go check out odyssey thanks

Edit: just checked, holy hell those are some expensive batteries. If I'm in that kind of a price range I'm probably converting the trailer to lithium.

And another piece of advice. Look at your tires, find the date code. Replace every 3 years. One blows and they tear up alot of stuff. also, I ran my tires at max psi on tire, they can be a little rougher ride, but will not build up heat as much and give you better odds of avoiding a blow out. AND check the pressures before leaving the house and before leaving the camp ground. They do make a sensor system that has simple valve stem caps that can help alot.

Yeah I'll check the dates again to be sure but if I remember right it had brand new tires when we bought it last year.

That disconnect switch is a "panel mount" style. It mounts through a hole in a piece of sheet metal. Like this..

Yeah, I have some stainless steel sheet I can use if I must, it's pretty thick though and a huge pita to cut and work with. Wondering if there's a bracket out there I can buy though. Would save me about 6 Dremel cut off wheels and an hours work

There's other styles of disconnects if you don't have a good way to mount this one. Here's one example:

https://www.amazon.com/Disconnect-Se.../dp/B0CBTKFM21

The problem I've found with this style is those holes are not for mounting but just holding the bottom plate on. I'm not sure how these are mounted because there certainly doesn't seem to be a way that's described

I would avoid AGM. You're bound to do something silly and lead acid is much much more durable against freezing, heat, impact, and low state of charge, etc.

I'll stick with the AGM. I'm in the Pacific Northwest so freezing and heat are pretty much non factors, if they are taking impacts I probably have larger problems and charging should be taken care of with the noco

Buy both of your batteries of the exact same brand, model, and vintage. They should match. Then make sure your charging system is hooked across both batteries. That is, don't wire everything to one battery and then run two lines connecting them. The chassis ground should be on one battery and the positive on the other battery. This way the wear is even. You want to drain both at the same time, not one and then the other.

Yeah they are already hooked up in parallel. It's just that the current batteries are old, one is flooded, the other is sealed (I believe AGM but not positive) and both have been advised so I'd like a fresh start anyway.

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[Shane-O]

The first switch I linked is $37. The second one mounts and conceals the battery wires nicer. Grote is one of the brands Big Rigs use, there is another we sold alot of, but I cannot remember for the life of me. Most Big Rig switches are 200-300 amp rating based on how much draw and charging they get. The 180 amp one is still overkill, you can go less in your camper.

Caution on the tires, you can buy new ones and they are already 6mos to 18 months old. Its a real hassle getting good trailer tires these days.

[Trbo323]

The first switch I linked is $37. The second one mounts and conceals the battery wires nicer. Grote is one of the brands Big Rigs use, there is another we sold alot of, but I cannot remember for the life of me. Most Big Rig switches are 200-300 amp rating based on how much draw and charging they get. The 180 amp one is still overkill, you can go less in your camper.

Yeah my idea there is a lot of the big rig equipment is actually cheaper than you would think so I want to check and see if that's the case or not

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[Tarsun2]

im not a camper but, i do have a boat with 2 batteries.
this is the disconnect switch that is almost always used.

https://www.amazon.com/SEACHOICE-11501-Battery-Selector-Switch/dp/B000XBEUIO/ref=asc_df_B000XBEUIO/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312177424933&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1368373023002200070&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004282&hvtargid=pla-574196786052&mcid=96ae2eeaedf63d5d8aa1c0ed73ab533b&ref=&adgrpid=64958377347&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0PW5t6SKhAMVLkdHAR1NqQfpEAQYAyABEgISqPD_BwE&th=1

the reason for isolating both batteries is because one battery is used for starting the boat. when youre underway its switched to both batteries so both are charging. when youre anchored and using electronics, you switch to the other battery.
this way both batteries are charging and you dont have to worry about draining your starting battery.

while this is not the case here, it might be useful for maintenance and other things. the holes in the cover are for mounting the while thing (a concern you mentioned). its also nice because the terminals are covered (once mounted), no one will step on this, and there is plenty on non-conducting plastic around the terminals.


the charger youre looking at is a full on "charger". if you simply want to maintain a charge while in storage, why not get a float charger or trickle charger, maybe a battery tender...?

if youre keeping the batteries separate, you might want to look into a balance charger.

[Trbo323]

the charger youre looking at is a full on "charger". if you simply want to maintain a charge while in storage, why not get a float charger or trickle charger, maybe a battery tender...?

You must have missed this part

I actually talked with noco a bit about the charger. My original plan was their 2x2 charger so 2amps and can hook to two separate batteries. I was thinking that the repair function might need to work separately on the batteries but then realized they would be hooked in parallel anyway. I mainly wanted the charger as a float charger as any bulk charging would be done through the camper inverter. Noco said their chargers don't work like that because leaving a battery on a long term float can lead to over charging so instead their chargers wait until the batteries discharges to something like 12.5v and then applies the full rated charge until the battery is at 12.7 again. Since mine are hooked in parallel there's no need for a charger that can hook to two separate batteries.

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[SignOfZeta]

im not a camper but, i do have a boat with 2 batteries.
this is the disconnect switch that is almost always used.

https://www.amazon.com/SEACHOICE-11501-Battery-Selector-Switch/dp/B000XBEUIO/ref=asc_df_B000XBEUIO/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312177424933&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1368373023002200070&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004282&hvtargid=pla-574196786052&mcid=96ae2eeaedf63d5d8aa1c0ed73ab533b&ref=&adgrpid=64958377347&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0PW5t6SKhAMVLkdHAR1NqQfpEAQYAyABEgISqPD_BwE&th=1

the reason for isolating both batteries is because one battery is used for starting the boat. when youre underway its switched to both batteries so both are charging. when youre anchored and using electronics, you switch to the other battery.
this way both batteries are charging and you dont have to worry about draining your starting battery.

while this is not the case here, it might be useful for maintenance and other things. the holes in the cover are for mounting the while thing (a concern you mentioned). its also nice because the terminals are covered (once mounted), no one will step on this, and there is plenty on non-conducting plastic around the terminals.


the charger youre looking at is a full on "charger". if you simply want to maintain a charge while in storage, why not get a float charger or trickle charger, maybe a battery tender...?

if youre keeping the batteries separate, you might want to look into a balance charger.

That seems unnecessarily complex. If you only need 12V, just hook them together. Start with both, run from both, charge both, as one.

If you treat them separately you’ll simply end up needing to replace them more often. They should effectively be the same battery, made on the same day, experiencing the same charges and discharges.

[Trbo323]

That seems unnecessarily complex. If you only need 12V, just hook them together. Start with both, run from both, charge both, as one.

If you treat them separately you'll simply end up needing to replace them more often. They should effectively be the same battery, made on the same day, experiencing the same charges and discharges.

I'm not a boat guy but that way he has it makes sense to me. If you find a nice Sandy cove to hang out in and you want to listen to some music you run off of a single battery and that way if you accidentally drain it you can still start the boat. It's not like you can just wave and get a jump start after all.

Probably not the healthiest thing for the life of the batteries but I for one would take that and not getting stranded

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[SignOfZeta]

Yeah, I guess if your planning on draining it flat you’d need a spare battery but…that’s not much of a plan, also you never get the real benefits from having two batteries in the first place. It may as well just be a one battery system and add as many spares as you need.

And if draining it flat is the plan then AGM is an absolute no no. They hate that.

[Trbo323]

Yeah, I guess if your planning on draining it flat you'd need a spare battery but…that's not much of a plan, also you never get the real benefits from having two batteries in the first place. It may as well just be a one battery system and add as many spares as you need.

And if draining it flat is the plan then AGM is an absolute no no. They hate that.

Well, it's not what you plan for that bites you in the ass and in this situation of the boat, the benefit is not getting stranded somewhere. You're not looking to power a bunch of accessories for days on end like a camper

For the camper yeah there's no real reason for a selector like that. If it was an option those renogy people make a single battery that's 200AH instead of the two separate 100AH ones I'm looking at. The problem is doing that would also require me to replace the entire battery box and security setup I already have.

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