Icd threaded Dye barrel wont thread

[BrickHaus]

Hey all, Im wondering if this has been seen before.

I just got a NOS ICD threaded dye TI barrel for my puma.

It came in the mail, and I instantly attempted to thread it onto my marker.

i can feel the 4 helix leads kinda skip past eachother, but it wont egnage them.

I dont have my calipers to check, but comparing this barrel to my All American barrel, the dye barrel seems to step back up in diameter between the threads and the breach.

After messing with it for a bit, Im guessing this larger breach is the same od ad the pumas breach.

Im assuming Ill have to take this surface down a bit to make it work, but wanted second opinions.

You guys see anything like this on ICD cats or Dye barrels of other threads before?

If there a different breach diameter from a b2k vs a cat or something that has that difference?

Just manufacturing tolerances stacking up against me?

All in all, the threads look to match, so I believe I can make it work, but figured Id ask.

[BrickHaus]

My next question is this.. Whats the best way to work Titanium? Ive heard its tough. I guess Ill just find out on Monday, but Im curious.


Would an adrasive work, or is it better cut with a carbide?


I have a sharp manual lathe I could carefully chuck it up in. I figure Id just take a few strips of emry cloth and polish that edge down in the lathe on my lunch break. But not sure if Titanium will work or just knock the abrasives off.

I could run a tool down it too, but I if titaniums that hard, I doubt my ability to make a decent finish as we dont have soft jaws, so I dont think I could get a good cut without knicking the sides up, or leaving some spiral groves like shown on my sp barrel in the photo.

[Shaftski]

I have a Taso eliminator that will not thread into a BL millenium body I have. Same barrel threads into any spyder derivative I've tried it on over the years, except this BL body. Which sucks because I really want to use the Taso on that project without hacking it up.

Seen one other case too, it seems to be more an issue with the body threads than the barrel though in both.

[Siress]

Theoretically, you can put some marking fluid (e.g. dykem) on the barrel to identify where the interference contact points are exactly. I've not had success with this method, but I don't normally use that kind of product anyway since I can dimensionally inspect with metrology equipment.

Is it the one on the right that won't engage? The shoulder (w/o o-ring) looks much larger than the one on the left.

[BrickHaus]

The right pitted up one is the OG all american that came on my puma. It threads in rather easily and so does the stock foamie barrel it came with. The all american is actuaply wore a lot and I have an exalt reg grip on the puma body to bond them together.

The left barrel is the brand new titanium barrel I just got. If you look closely at it, it is thicker from breach to shortly before the threads, then it necks down to a diameter, then threads. I was hoping that shpulder was my issue.

[glaman5266]

Did the barrels change slightly at one point? Say, after the Line SI Bushmaster & old Promaster? In a quick Google search I came across Bacci's ICD threaded barrel section on his site. The title & descriptor are interesting.

https://www.baccipaintball.com/parts/barrels/icd.html

[DocsMachine]

My next question is this.. Whats the best way to work Titanium? Ive heard its tough.

-That's exactly it: Titanium is tough, not hard.

In this case that means titanium has better tensile strength than most steels, better fatigue life, better resistance to heat, etc. But unless you wind up with some exotic, heat-treated aerospace alloy, it's not going to be hard.

The main issue you and I would deal with- working a small piece of what's almost certainly a conventional 6AL 4V- is that Ti is 'gummy'. Without a good, sharp tool, sometimes it wants to "smear" rather than cut- kind of like trying to turn pure copper.

For a small, simple project like this, a sharp HSS tool with a moderate nose radius will be fine. Better would be some of the sharp-honed carbide inserts meant for aluminum.

Don't let it scare ya. It's exotic, but not indestructible. I've "Freaked" any number of DYE Ti barrels- it takes a little more care, but nothing particularly special by way of tooling. Point in fact, somewhere around here I have a small baggie of Ti swarf from a time I did like three barrels in a row. I saved the cuttings, and they're fun to throw in campfires. Kind of like magnesium.

Doc.

[OpusX]

Yep Ti can get gummy and swell easily snagging tools. Ask my left thumb about Ti getting snagged in the drill press ;-)

[Ecapnation]

Early icd mechs had a slightly different thread.

[Jordan]

I believe I read somewhere that Pumas use a different thread compared to the later standardized ICD thread.

[un2xs]

Jordon, is it possible that you are thinking of Panthers? Panthers use what you can consider to be slightly modified ProLite barrels.

[BrickHaus]

Well thats not good news. My puma is a really low serial number too so odds are its the early ICD thread spec. The threads themselves LOOK the same, but thats not saying crest diameter is different, or pitch is different enough. Ill need to study this more. Ill grab telescoping bore gages and some thread gages outta my toolbox tomorrow, and see if I can determine if its the threads or just that shoulder that are causing headaches.

[woouulf]

I wonder,Label says PUMA ....Indian Creek Designs ICD Threaded SmartParts All American ,16in 1pc Barrel NEW! | eBay

If you would like to exchange/swap barrels let me know. Id be happy to work with you....

[BrickHaus]

Woouulf, I really appreciate the offer. I may snag up that sp barrel outright, but I already have a .686 sp all american barrel for my puma, so the allure of that barrel is not as strong as this dye ti.

Any chance you know what that all american bores at?

At any rate, Ill consider this before I attempt to mod this barrel.

[Jordan]

Well thats not good news. My puma is a really low serial number too so odds are its the early ICD thread spec. The threads themselves LOOK the same, but thats not saying crest diameter is different, or pitch is different enough. Ill need to study this more. Ill grab telescoping bore gages and some thread gages outta my toolbox tomorrow, and see if I can determine if its the threads or just that shoulder that are causing headaches.

I had a brass barrel made for me years ago by Tymcneer... and while it threaded into his test gun, it would not work on my 'Cat until I adjusted the threads with a file. IIRC, I chased the threads with a triangle file until it would thread in.

It's very possible you're running into a stacked tolerances issue.

I think un2xs could be correct in that it was the Panther that had the different threads.

[woouulf]

So this is the info I have. Lapco made (as in past tense) a specific Puma threaded adaptor at one time. Puma as I knew it had specific Barrels made for them...There was also more than one marker made named Puma. so it all gets a lil confusing... The Black Barrel is a packaged as Puma Barrel and the silver is an ICD TI barrel as the same as the OP purchased..To me the threads look different..

[un2xs]

Wish I knew how to resurrect pre-hack MCB threads. From memory... Feel free to correct any bad information.

- Line SI used either fixed or slip fit barrels. (Bushmaster pump & Promaster... no idea about Advantage.)
- Indian Creek Engineering/ICE used something close to a ProLite barrel with a modified thread profile. (Panther)
-Indian Creek Design/ICD used a proprietary 4 lead thread on all mechs and early (?pre-04?) electronic guns. (Puma, Bobcat, Thundercat, AllyCat, Desert Fox, Bushmaster 2K)
- Indian Creek Design/ICD moved to standard AutoCocker threads about ?2004? (B2K, BKO, FreeStyle, Promaster)

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