Dye Rotors

[iamthelazerviking]

A recent post I made received several replies mentioning the Rotor. Now, I know what it is etc but curious what others think. They seem to be very robust and work for ever. Not sure I necessarily need a force feed loader, but if I did would that be the way to go? Any issues with lesser quality paint?
And are there certain versions/generations to avoid? Is the Rotor LT-R still force feed or just have the Rotor name and cheaper shells/different operating system?

[gabe]

As far as models, the LT-R is basically the original Rotor without the color accent pieces so it's a solid piece of gear. Just doesn't have the low paint level alarms or expandable capacity or anything like that. Personally I'd go an LTR or a used first gen Rotor and that would have you pretty well set.

On the other hand the basic Rotor capacity is pretty awful. Like 180 balls or something like that. You literally can't use a Dye locklid pod on one and not over-fill it which is kind of a cruel irony in the Dye gear world. The higher end Rotor has the large and small capacity configuration which takes it up to 220 balls which is really nice if you just need to top off with a pod. I think they also have some of the other gimmicky stuff like dual spring ramps and beepers and stuff like that but I don't use those features personally so it's no big deal to me.

The newer rotors have an updated impeller with an anti-jam bump on it which improves things but I have never had issues with jamming unless the gun is having issues like double feeding or extreme rollback in the breech. I will say that a rotor does not work well at all with older guns, especially power feeds and some elbow/rf guns. It's very much a modern gun/vertical feed hopper. They can be a little rough on the most extremely brittle paint and/or on cold days when paint is most brittle. That being said I've completely backed off the impeller spring tension on mine and it's really easy on paint and still feeds more than plenty fast for 10-12bps. The assurance that you will always have a ball fully fed is really nice even on mech guns. My orracle will easily outshoot a revvy and I have guns that have some blowback but with the force feed it's no problems at all.

[iamthelazerviking]

gabe awesome, thanks for the input!

[Hellion360]

They are phenomenal on reliability. My original rotor I bought in 2009 still works great and the only thing I have had to replace is my lid.
I use them on my pump cockers too. I have a spire 3 and use my rotor more frequently.

Turn down the tension, still feeds 15bps no problem.

I have a rotor 2 as well, no issues but not really a big upgrade from the LTR.

Rotor LTR is often available under $100, super reliable, fast, and durable. As far as I am concerned it is the new Revy.

[MattV]

I used ine for around 5 years, everything felt quite sturdy and never any issues. Simple to tear apart and clean. I used mine on a RF cocker and pyre all the time with no issues whatsoever. I sold mine when I offloaded my gear, but I'll be picking one up again at some point.

[Trbo323]

I've had my rotor since around 2009. I've only done 2 things to it, add a shark fin impeller and replace the board. The board died after around 8 years. It's a known issue but really not that important as the hopper has to be pretty old before the board gives out and it's only like a $30 fix anyway

That said, now I use a spire 3, I like the capacity better and it actually feeds reballs, for you though, I would also consider the spire ir, it's around the same price as the ltr

Rotor cons:

Constant tension on the feed stack, between games or waiting for action this can cause dimples on the paint in the stack.

Capacity, mentioned above
Will NOT feed reballs (at all, I tried)

Rotor pros:
Durability, price, easy to find parts for (you won't need to)

Spire ir cons:
Price, typically a little more than a ltr
I'm not sure I'd say it has proven reliability yet but I haven't heard any bad things yet as it's based off the spire chassis

Spire ir pros:
Capacity, more than a rotor so pods fit better
No ball stack tension to dimple paint
Upgradable, you can put spring ramps in it if you want and I think there are a few other things but I can't remember

I don't think either hopper is a bad choice though.

I have a spire ir and an original rotor, my brother in law uses a spire ir and my father in law uses an original spire

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

[Ecapnation]

My gen one is still going..... They are nearly as over built as the revolution. I keep it around if I need to run paint fast but mostly it's a wall queen

[Dusty Bottoms]

I've had my Rotor LTR for three years now and love it! It's heavier than my other loaders of course, but it's absolutely bulletproof. To contrast what Gabe said, I've used mine with several powerfeed Automags with no problem. Most of my mags have 'euro-feeds', which is an even longer ball stack than a standard powerfeed, and no issues. I have the tension backed off, and most of my mags have Doc's cocker barrel adapters and use a Spyder detent instead of the weak AGD nubbins, but they run great with the Rotor. It's a must if you ever want to crank up your air psi and actually rapidfire with an RT mag.

[glaman5266]

Rotor cons:

Constant tension on the feed stack, between games or waiting for action this can cause dimples on the paint in the stack.

Capacity, mentioned above
Will NOT feed reballs (at all, I tried)

Rotor pros:
Durability, price, easy to find parts for (you won't need to)

Spire ir cons:
Price, typically a little more than a ltr
I'm not sure I'd say it has proven reliability yet but I haven't heard any bad things yet as it's based off the spire chassis

Spire ir pros:
Capacity, more than a rotor so pods fit better
No ball stack tension to dimple paint
Upgradable, you can put spring ramps in it if you want and I think there are a few other things but I can't remember

I don't think either hopper is a bad choice though.

Just want to point out that the LTR comes with a spring ramp, whereas the IR does not. The IR is definitely a good hopper, but it's not the same/better bang for your buck if you're paying more for a hopper that has fewer features.
The fact the CTRL loader doesn't have them at it's price tag irks me. Virtue in general irks me sometimes.

But yeah, either the LTR or IR will perform very well. As for the LTR, the only thing I don't like about it is the weight distribution. It's backheavy & it definitely feels better on certain markers more than others. A feedneck that is more forward would help distribute the hopper weight a bit better. Anything with the feedneck more over the trigger frame & you'll be fighting the combined weight of the loader & air tank. Unless you don't have noodle arms like me, of course.

[Dusty Bottoms]

Yay for Team No-noodle Arms!

[glaman5266]

Hah, yeah. I used to play all day scenarios with a loaded A-5... Had more than my fill of that.

It’s even worse when you toss a Rotor on a super light marker. So top-heavy. Need a heavier marker to balance it out, which compounds the problem, lol.

[Tinybear]

I picked an LTR up when I bought the crossover. I don’t foresee replacing it at all. It’s a solId loader, good batt life looks great feeds the 15bps cap with ease, and is very easy to clean. but it’s large and a tad heavy.

Knowing now If I was shopping again I’d probly opt for a Pinokio/HK speed loader (had one I sold with my last Automag build). Just preferred the simplicity weight size and the fact that it ran 9 volts like my gun AND my revys. One battery type in my gear bag.

[Olsson]

I can't recommend the Rotor enough. I have 6-7 of them, and use them for all my guns that need high ROF - including guns with elbows/powerfeed. I would agree with the previous statement, in that the Rotor is pretty much the new Revvy. I still prefer the Revvy for lower ROF guns though.
As long as black is the preferred color, I would consider the LTR to be an upgrade, since all that is missing is the translucent side panels, which can crack after 10 years anyway. Oh, and a simpler on/off-button, but hey.

What I feel hasn't been stressed enough already are the following points;

The brittle lid.
The incredibly long battery life
The convenience of disassembly/assembly

The major gripe with the Rotor is the lid - it WILL break. I have replaced the lids on my Rotors more than once for all of them. It doesn't matter how gentle or careful you are, it is a simple matter of being worn from useage. As for the rest of the Rotor, it is pretty much indestructible.

The battery life for the Rotor is absolutely incredible. My Rotors see heavy use, and the batteries still lasts more than two seasons usually. Ironically this means that they usually runs out on the field - since I have gotten used to them to never need replacing...

Finally assembly/disassembly. It really is as superbly easy as was promoted in commercials. This is very, very nice on the field - actually it is so easy, that it can be done during a game, if need be.


On a side note - the inability to feed reballs has been mentioned. That is actually not clear cut. Oddly enough it seems to vary from Rotor to Rotor, with some flatly refusing, while others feed reballs like there was no tomorrow.

[BrickHaus]

Gotta watch out for them trees though, rotors dont make good mulchers. I recall coming off of the field SO pissed that my rotor wasnt working and I found this. Couldnt help but laugh, and snap the pic.

[2cBillB]

That is absolutely hilarious. I can just picture it.

[Chuck E Ducky]

I purchased a rotor at a psp event when they were first released. I still use it today it has processed more paint threw it then any other piece of gear I own. Around 2014 the button led went bad and I replaced the board $25 ( it still worked you just couldn’t tell it was on) I put new battery Velcro straps on it a few years ago. If and when I need a new it will be another one just like it or a LTR. It works all the time it let me down one time in all these years turns out my 3 year old turned it on before I put my gear away after practice before an event and I didn’t change the battery’s. Lithium ions batteries last 3/4 of a season shooting 2 cases a weekend. I get my balls busted about my “old hopper” but it just keeps working so why replace a perfectly good working piece of equipment. I know just by weight when it needs a pod I use 140s like every other tournament player because we buy them by the case in bulk at events when we need them and never have over capacity issues. The dam thing Rocks! I despise dye products because of their wishy-washy Quality and terrible customer service, but they can make hoppers and barrels that’s for sure.

[Tarsun2]

i have a 1st gen (?) with the velcroe battery straps, and shark shark fin impeller. it also has the anti-jam lever on the bottom. (maybe a second gen..? idk. got it used and its been a tank. my only gripe is that to adjust the stack pressure you have to either take it apart or drill a small hole in the back of the hopper.