Wood finishing: Rosewood

[BrickHaus]

Morning MCB, ive been searching other woodworking forums. And the answers are so varied, I figured Id ask here as there are a lot of expierenced wood workers in this group.

I picked up these unfinished rosewood .45 wraps for my mac-1 build. Figured they would make beaufiful grips for a brass with a little work.

Than as always, I started to research "the best way to finish rosewood" and went into a tail spin of answers via various forums. Then I changed my search to "finishing rosewood grips" and got a pleothra of different opinions.


Now Im not really sure what to do. So Im asking the great brains of MCB, how would you suggest finishing these babies?


First, not that Id want to, but it sounds like staining isnt an option thanks to the naturally occuring oils. Though I wouldnt mind something to accent the reds a little more.


Im figuring I'll wanna fill the crack just to strengthen them up a bit. I was hoping to get away with a clear epoxy in there to make it catch light but im open to suggestions. Id even leave it for the texture

Two methods that stand out to me were polymerized tung oil mixed with mineral spirits. To strip oils and allow adhesion.

linseed oil mixed with spirits was also suggested.

Ive also read oiling them and putting em under vacuum for a few days gets it deep into the pores and helps adHesion.

Read that limseed oil, then beeswax and a ton of polishing.

Ive read mixed reviews on tru oil amd other premixed oil products.


Lastly, Im considering getting a 2 part epoxy kit and making 4 or 5 tiny batches and brushing thin coats of clear epoxy on. I have a table made with this, and the stuff is damn strong. Not sure how much itll want to build up on grips though. I legit just poured it over my table a few times and let it harden. This may be very different on grips. Id think it would add strength to the grips over all though.


All I know, is I dont wanna ruin these with a tacky finish that wont dry, but Id like a durable enough finish that they have a few years of protection before they need more work, and from what Ive read, they are oily enough that I need to know what Im after to finish them.


Any suggestions?

[XEMON]

Ive also read oiling them and putting em under vacuum for a few days gets it deep into the pores and helps adHesion.

that's my go to ... boiled linseed oil.
I made a "vacuum tank" with some PVC pipes and have a small vacuum pump that goes straight to it.

I've had good results with "wood harder" to, same process in the vacuum pump.

Wood harder/epoxy in a vacuum pump is called "stabilized wood", might be worth a quick search ...

[bellicose]

I use Cactus Juice to stabilize. I have Doug fir bark in the vacuum chamber at the moment.

[XEMON]

How do you like it?
Can you re-use the extra juice that didn't soak in the wood?
Always wanted to try it, but always deterred by the price.

[Shaftski]

Sand, wipe clean with denatured alcohol. Immediately brush on a layer of straight shellac. This will help seal in the natural rosewood oils and the shellac should not get tacky. Once shellac is dry, lightly sand, remove dust and apply oil free based top coat like oil free varnish.

Be careful sanding/cutting as oily woods have pretty toxic dust. I use breathing protection, full cover clothing, gloves, and a lot of ventilation.

[SignOfZeta]

Linseed oil or carnauba. Reapply annually. Anything else will eventually flake off.

The smoother the surface the better, and I mean this very much. See if you can get it almost as smooth as glass, then wax every day for like two weeks.

[bellicose]

I'd fill the crack with epoxy, but you can mix it with a dye. I would not epoxy the whole grip, you lose the wood feel.

[Knuckle Dragger]

I always use tung oil and mineral spirits for the first couple applications to penetrate and prevent further drying. Then pure tung oil for the last, really burnish it in so the oil polymerizes. Here’s a set of grips I made from walnut for my dads revolver. Did those a couple years ago, tung oil finish and still look and feel good.

[bellicose]

I also use Doctor's Woodshop Pen Plus as a finish. It is a friction finish that I use wood turning, but you could rub really fast...

[lew]

Unlike linseed oil, tung oil actually provides a waterproof finish.

I only use tung oil on my tables, gunstocks, etc... I'll dilute the first coat or two with mineral spirits or isopropyl alcohol by about half to allow the oil to penetrate further, then the following coats are 100%.

[Sniperfan]

My dad made some grips for a 1911 out of ironwood, and the only finish that worked well was carnuba. I think some woods just don't work really well with linseed oil or polyurethane.

Wow, that H&R is in .32 S&W. I have a Colt OP on .38 S&W. Not the easiest ammo to find anymore.