Thread locker for Cocker

[Bulldogr6]

Last month I bought an Empire Resurrection autococker. Been enjoying it but Empire obviously doesn't use threadlocker on anything. I have had the set screw for the ram come loose, the pump arm rod come loose and now the ASA is loose. Going to give it a once-over listen threadlocker but all I have is automotive grade medium strength and permanent on hand. I was thinking the (green) low-strength might be a good choice because they're small fine threads. Just looking for some input on what you guys would use.

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[JasperStout]

The blue stuff has always Worked for me. Just use it really sparingly on the the tiny screws like the 3 way collar set screws

[nobbie333]

I have heard vibra-tite works great but I have not tried it yet

[Siress]

Vibra-tite gel has been my go to for about a year now. No problems so far. It's cheaper and way more convenient to use in the pump bottle - even vs. the loctite sticks.

[Knuckle Dragger]

I use VIbra-Tite blue for the ASA and frame screws, it’s great. I use Vibra-Tite VC-3 for rod shafts, hammer lugs and small grub screws that cant be wrenched down tightly.

[Jordan]

Loctite is the devil. More specifically, RED loctite.

Find some low strength Loctite if you must. Don't use anything automotive related, it's going to be the wrong application.

[lew]

Vibra-Tite or blue Loctite.

[Siress]

Loctite is the devil. More specifically, RED loctite.

Find some low strength Loctite if you must. Don't use anything automotive related, it's going to be the wrong application.

Looks like mama is wrong again. Thread locker is a necessary part of many assemblies. Even red loctite. You want to talk about it making disassembly a headache, though, try some of the green variants that can only be removed while it's still hot; since it will resolidify as it cools, vs Red that will degrade upon heating and be readily removed afterward. That stuff is a real PITA. Only way I know to remove it from paintball parts is to clamp the assembly in a vice, put on an ovenmit for your wrench hand, and hold a torch in the other. I got pretty good at it, but the learning curve lead to many blemished finishes.

[DocsMachine]

There is no application in paintball- NONE- for red Loctite.

The ONLY time red should be used, is if the part absolutely will not ever be removed, like a thread repair insert for a grip frame, a plug to close off an unwanted eye hole, etc.

NOTHING else on a paintball gun needs red. Red should not be used anywhere. I have had to hammer open so many guns after the stupid, idiotic, moronic, mouth-breathing, inbred mongoloid owner glued shut with red simply because the goddam tube said "high strength" and their unwound Chinese-made clockwork brain said "hey, 'high' strength is better than this 'medium' strength crap!"

Blue Loctite or the equivalent Vibra-Tite are just fine for any paintball application you'd care to name.

You know when I use Loctite at all? Pretty much the one and only time I get even just blue out, is to put a drop on the valve nut of a 'Cocker. Those things come loose way too often (which is why Inception, and others, have gone to the Spyder-style slide-in valve) so they get a small drop of blue. That and 'sealing' LP hose barbs are pretty much the only times I use Loctite.

Blue should be used sparingly, and red not at all.

Doc.

[MrKittyCatMeowFace]

Red makes polar bears angry too XD

[Siress]

There is no application in paintball- NONE- for red Loctite.

The ONLY time red should be used, is if the part absolutely will not ever be removed, like a thread repair insert for a grip frame, a plug to close off an unwanted eye hole, etc.

And then you listed some suitable applications in paintball. haha I've never been bothered by red to be honest. I have a few different torches here that deal with it just fine. Typically I'll use a butane lighter with the jet flame, a pencil torch, or just a hot air gun. Still, I agree with the caveats on use that you stated, Doc. I'd also contraindicate for any time that application of heat to degrade the red loctite would destroy the part. And even eye holes might want to be reused by some other owner, so I'd suggest a lower strength than red - unless tapping them destroyed the reuse potential. I see it as a warning to anyone that knows what they're doing. It forces them to study the design before continuing. It also has the risk of them just going ham and stripping the drive interface... so... I'm really only advocating for using it as a warning when you know who will be working on it in the future - which is practically never unless it's yourself.

And before I get labeled as 'that guy we can blame for all the red loctite issues we've had', I'm pretty sure I don't even own red thread locker right now. That's how rarely I actually see use for it. That said, I'll continue to defend it as a product and it's limited applications in paintball.

[DocsMachine]

And then you listed some suitable applications in paintball.

-Sure, in paintball repair, or mods intended to be permanent, sure.

But day-to-day? No. Blue is more than sufficient for virtually any day-to-day paintball use you might want to name, and most often, you don't even need that.

I've never been bothered by red to be honest.

-I have. I've seen too many ruined 'Cocker bodies because some idiot glued the valve in, and then torched it brown in an effort to get it loose. I've had to drill out 'Cocker detents and rethread the hole, I've had to cut a set of Stickies off because some mouthbreather glued the screws in, I can't count the number of stripped screws I've had to extract thanks to some dolt gluing his gun together, and I've had to tell at least half a dozen players over the years, that both the reg and the tank are ruined and unsalvageable because some moron glued the reg in place, and then tried to pipe-wrench it back out.

I have a few different torches here that deal with it just fine.

-There are many things that don't heat well (springs, O-rings, poly seals) and no torch can save the screw the owner has already stripped out because it won't turn. Yes, in many cases I've been able to simply apply a little heat and get things loose- but in nearly as many cases, the part arrives already damaged or the screws already stripped.

And before I get labeled as 'that guy we can blame for all the red loctite issues we've had', I'm pretty sure I don't even own red thread locker right now. That's how rarely I actually see use for it.

-I use it a lot. Probably more than I do blue. But half the time I'm using it, I'm repairing damage that was caused by red in the first place- drilling out a stripped screw, reinstalling feed neck threads after I had to machine the old ones away, rebushing a detent hole, etc.

That said, I'll continue to defend it as a product and it's limited applications in paintball.

-Defend away. But the fact is, the only legit use in paintball- that is, on paintball guns or equipment- is when you're doing a mod or repair intended to be permanent. You do NOT use it on grip screws, on feed necks, on rail mounts, on tank threads, on microline fittings, on LP hose barbs, on eye covers, on pump rods, on front block bolts, or anything else attached to a paintball gun.

Permanently installing a Heli-Coil, permanently fitting a stripped-screw plug, permanently installing an eye-hole plug? Sure. Those are ideal uses. Knock yourself out.

Use it to hold your grip frame on, your rail screws in or your eye covers on? I'm gonna charge you $60 to fix it and probably laugh at you while I do it.

Doc.

[Bulldogr6]

I use VIbra-Tite blue for the ASA and frame screws, it’s great. I use Vibra-Tite VC-3 for rod shafts, hammer lugs and small grub screws that cant be wrenched down tightly.

The Vibra-tite VC-3 sounds like a great product. I have some on the way and the low strength stuff as well.

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[Knuckle Dragger]

I use that stuff for everything. Sadly it’s not available locally so I have to get it online. I use it for adjustment screws on my yard equipment, carburetors you name it.