SP1 Issues

[Toestr]

I recently picked up an sp1 locally, which appears to be an ex rental at an old local field. Other than having dried paint all over it, it was in surprisingly good condition inside. Striped it down and lubed the reg, bolt and fittings on the board, but didn't change any orings, because they all looked good.

Anyway, I aired it up and there's a slight leak coming from the feedneck, and it takes a few trigger pulls in quick succession before the solenoid starts to puff, and a few more before it will fire. It needs that for every shot. It's a fresh battery and the pressure is up almost at the point the pressure relief valve on the reg kicks in.

Any insight would be appreciated.

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[punkncat]

Obviously your first step is going to be to re-ring it. Make sure you get all those internal body rings as well. It's been a LONG time, but the "noid poppit" comes apart too (little metal clip). A lot of time it can get gummed up. It's an Ion in a body kit with no other differences I am aware of.

[Toestr]

Obviously your first step is going to be to re-ring it. Make sure you get all those internal body rings as well. It's been a LONG time, but the "noid poppit" comes apart too (little metal clip). A lot of time it can get gummed up. It's an Ion in a body kit with no other differences I am aware of.

Ya I'll have to order some orings for it. I don't think it has the same solenoid as the ion though.

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[Meleager7]

The best way to repair that solenoid is to completely remove it!

get yourself the two fat guys mech kit!

[Toestr]

The best way to repair that solenoid is to completely remove it!

get yourself the two fat guys mech kit!

If it's anything like an enmey, no thank you. If I'm going to get a mech spoolie, I'll be an Emek.

Also I basically got this for the ability to shoot full auto with anti chop on the cheap.

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[Olsson]

The reason it takes a few trigger pulls before your SP1 actually fires is most probably due to the orings being swollen from age. I assume that you have used different brands of batteries, and brand spanking new ones. Anyway, this is a known issue on all of those guns, the Vibe, the SP1, etc, etc. And don't focus on the fact that the orings look good. It is perfectly possible, if not downright common, that the orings can look pristine, but you have the leak you described, and the unwillingness to fire for a few shots.

The main culprit is usually the green oring on the bolt, i.e. the bolt front seal, but I would hazard to guess that you will also have to switch out the other orings on the bolt as well. Another well known oring to cause these issues is the green oring inside the body, i.e. the bolt guide seal, and also both of the orings on the bolt guide. However, do yourself a favor and get a complete rebuild kit, and switch every oring you can. The green one on the inside of the body can be somewhat of a pita to get back, but be patient, so you don't damage it.

I would also advise to buy from GoG, rather than any other brand of oring kits. The only reason for that is that there are two (I think) orings that is manufactured in significantly harder material than buna - somebody help me out here, not urethane I believe. So far I haven't found a single other brand that doesn't switch out those harder orings to cheaper buna.

[Toestr]

The reason it takes a few trigger pulls before your SP1 actually fires is most probably due to the orings being swollen from age. I assume that you have used different brands of batteries, and brand spanking new ones. Anyway, this is a known issue on all of those guns, the Vibe, the SP1, etc, etc. And don't focus on the fact that the orings look good. It is perfectly possible, if not downright common, that the orings can look pristine, but you have the leak you described, and the unwillingness to fire for a few shots.

The main culprit is usually the green oring on the bolt, i.e. the bolt front seal, but I would hazard to guess that you will also have to switch out the other orings on the bolt as well. Another well known oring to cause these issues is the green oring inside the body, i.e. the bolt guide seal, and also both of the orings on the bolt guide. However, do yourself a favor and get a complete rebuild kit, and switch every oring you can. The green one on the inside of the body can be somewhat of a pita to get back, but be patient, so you don't damage it.

I would also advise to buy from GoG, rather than any other brand of oring kits. The only reason for that is that there are two (I think) orings that is manufactured in significantly harder material than buna - somebody help me out here, not urethane I believe. So far I haven't found a single other brand that doesn't switch out those harder orings to cheaper buna.

Good to know. I bought an ans brand 3x full rebuild kit last night so oh well. It'll probably be a couple weeks until I get it, so I'll have time to figure out which orings are the hard ones. I think one of the ones on the bolt is a harder tank size one, but it might just be the age. I'm also unsure if I had the dwell set for CO2 or HPA when I tested, so that could have been an issue as well. I'll go through and replace any moving seals when I get the kit.

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