Does anyone have any photos of a disassembled Tippmann 68 special.

[I-tech]

Still trying to figure out what's wrong with this marker. The exploded diagram is worthless.

[OpusX]

I know Myrkul recently rebuilt one. Not sure if he took pics.

[Myrkul]

I can probably get pics up later today. Need to flip the cup seals anyway.

[I-tech]

[I-tech]

Here's what I got. Not sure if anything is missing or wore down. Just need something to compare to. Especially the trigger and sear area.

[Meleager7]

I see some rust ,so probably a good idea to get those parts cleaned up, then rebuild with fresh orings. If the valve was not leaking, do not take apart, and run with it until it breaks. Inspect your sear and the bolt for wear. Reassemble and test. Oh yeah, to test properly, you’ll need a siphon tank since these guns were designed around sweet, delicious liquid co2

[Myrkul]

Based on your photos the trigger & sear area looked fine. Obviously if there is a spring or something broken in there it'll need to be replaced, but I have never had a reason to dig in that far, and yours looks fine.

Tippmann 68 Special "O" Ring Sizes

Front Bolt "O" Ring: #015 (9/16 ID 11/16 OD 1/16 Wall)
Front Bolt Linkage Arm Retainer: #011 (5/16 ID 7/16 OD 1/16 Wall)
Power Tube Face Seal: #116 (3/4 ID 15/16 OD 3/32 Wall)
Internal Valve Seal Front: #012 (3/8 ID 1/2 OD 1/16 Wall)
Internal Valve Seal Back: #012 (3/8 ID 1/2 OD 1/16 Wall)
External Valve Seal: #020 (7/8 ID 1" OD 1/16 Wall)
Hammer Face Seal: #020 (7/8 ID 1" OD 1/16 Wall)
Hammer Linkage Arm Retainer: #011 (5/16 ID 7/16 OD 1/16 Wall)

Probably go urethane wherever you can because Liquid Co2, but mine is mostly buna and works fine.

Here is a photo dump I did while fixing a slipped snap ring (I bent it) in the front of the valve earlier today.

Grub screw on top:


Unscrew the back cap:


Remove the Hammer linkage arm retainer:


Pull the tube:












That should cover most of it. They are pretty simple inline blowbacks. Designed to run on Liquid Co2, Bret G converts them to HPA by carving out a bunch of excess space in the valve (he shaves down the brass part of the cup seals to add volume) and drops the internal micro line (again to improve volume).

Additional Info:
They take SL-68II barrels, (Palmers still makes them, possibly J&J (at least I think they still have a few). I'd call them first before shelling out for brass) and the shroud is a chopped SL-68 II shroud (I believe it came from the factory this way?) Hopper adapters are necessary, luckily 3D Printing to the rescue!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274627855729.

I've also spoken to Tippmann parts about it, and apparently PB sports won the bid for the NOS service parts back in 2004 when Dennis sold the company. Good news is they still have them! (Good for us anyway, I think Tippmann parts made the right move by passing on them, just not enough demand).

https://www.pbsports.com/collections...-factory-parts

I ordered a replacement internal gas line for mine from them and there were zero issues. So it's real and not just an outdated web page.

Now if only I could fine one of these bad boys.....that would be the tits and make it usable again.

https://www.baccipaintball.com/tip256.html

[MrBarraclough]

Great write-up. Coincidentally, I rebuilt my own 68 Special this past weekend after letting sit in a storage tote for twentysomething years. Thankfully the cup seals were fine, so it was just a matter of replacing o-rings. Other than the bolt o-ring, I'm pretty sure the rest were the ones that came on the gun when I bought it used in 1994.

Interesting thing that I discovered: The valve spacer C-clip is apparently unnecessary. Or at least, my gun has always been missing it and appears to function just fine. I'm not entirely sure what functional purpose it serves anyway. Limiting the forward travel of the valve body to prevent the front of the valve from opening too far perhaps (and making sure the rear opens enough to reset the hammer)? My relatively free-floating valve seems to work. The only constraint on its movement is the rolled pin that you have to tap out in order to remove it from the receiver. From its design, I would think that the valve body would have to move back and forth in order to work, since there doesn't appear to be any way to open the forward cup seal otherwise.

Anyone else notice that on Bacci's site, every valve-related part has the same information about being for external line guns only, not internal line, copied and pasted into the description? I'm not sure what that is about because I cannot see or think of any real difference between the valve bodies pictured on his site and the one in my gun (which has an internal gas line, like nearly all 68 Specials outside of the very earliest production runs). I can see that there are different valve bodies that either have the groove for the spacer C-clip or do not, but otherwise they all appear the same to my eye.

Also, in my experience a siphon tank has not been strictly necessary. Back when I played with this gun in the 90s I just ran a normal 20oz tank, and last night it test fired fine with a new non-siphon CO2 tank.

[Myrkul]

I'm not even a little bit surprised that yours has so many og seals on it. Mine was cycling somewhat reliably WITHOUT the hammer seal when I first got it. That is good to know that I might be able to run this without a siphon, I suspect it will have velocity issues though.

[StrayBlackCat]

The only thing I would change in disassembly is not pushing the opposite cup valve seat through the valve body. but remove both spring clips. Most 68-Special valves are left in the rough in the center or may have sharp edges on the 90 degree fitting threads. You can cut the o-rings.

[StrayBlackCat]

I just noticed that sub-comments do not allow pictures. I take siphon tank was the issue for the original post. As for the rest, some pictures are needed. The unfinished valve surface that can damage o-rings. Picture 1
The valves for the external line have two or three additional o-rings that seal the receiver body. Picture 2, This picture shows the back force on the valve as the paintball is propelled. The external feed valve has a retainer screw to the middle of the valve to limit travel. All valves with threaded holes in the side are internal line. Those include retainers like the rolled pin and the C-spacer versions. the retainers are critical to achieve proper and stable velocity of the 68 cal paint. Co2 gas can cycle a 68 but the velocity will be very low and reliability poor. The C-spacer was the last retainer version as well as the best. Not only did it limit back travel to apply more driving force to the ball. It also limited forward travel reducing the beating on the power tube, extending its life.