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ADA: Ask Doc Anything!

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  • lew
    commented on 's reply
    I'm not Doc, and, if I was, I'd never admit to it, but that Riot guy seems more like a hamster than a squirrel. I've never known a hamster to be good at business, so beware.

  • Carp
    replied
    Doc.. Should I attempt a trade transaction with Riot? Does he seem a bit squirrelly to you?

    Leave a comment:


  • un2xs
    replied
    It has been said time and again that AutoCocker won the barrel thread wars. However, there was superior threading available.

    What barrel threads were best and why? In a perfect world, what would be the standard barrel thread if paintball had a do over?

    Leave a comment:


  • lew
    replied
    Originally posted by DocsMachine View Post

    -The Shoebox? They're metric, 1.6 x 0.35, 18mm long overall.

    Doc.
    You marvelous boreal bastard. Yes, the Shoebox. Thanks a ton!

    Leave a comment:


  • DocsMachine
    replied
    Originally posted by Alexndl View Post
    I would be interested if you make a run of tight bore barrel for SL68
    I have a SL68 and original SL68-II that would be happy to see more field time
    -That's on the list, but these days, I sure can't give any kind of an ETA.

    Personally, just for a one-off, I'd find a tight-bore Phantom barrel and have the end turned down to fit the SL.

    Doc.

    Leave a comment:


  • DocsMachine
    replied
    Originally posted by lew View Post
    Doc, Do you know the thread specs for the solenoid mounting screws for a Shocker Sport?
    -The Shoebox? They're metric, 1.6 x 0.35, 18mm long overall.

    Doc.

    Leave a comment:


  • lew
    replied
    Doc,

    Do you know the thread specs for the solenoid mounting screws for a Shocker Sport?

    The ones I got from another source were too short in the four bodies I tested and they won't respond to email.

    Leave a comment:


  • Alexndl
    replied
    Originally posted by DocsMachine View Post

    SC-SL back in 1996
    But then, I still have the gun itself somewhere, and I've been meaning, also for years, to dig it out, re-polish it, and see if I can't finally fit it with a tighter-bore barrel.
    I would be interested if you make a run of tight bore barrel for SL68
    I have a SL68 and original SL68-II that would be happy to see more field time

    Leave a comment:


  • Alexndl
    commented on 's reply
    Always loved the look of those fastback
    Who made this frame?

  • XEMON
    commented on 's reply
    I've been wanting to get my hand on one of those ... They don't seam to pop up for sales much ...

  • Silvester17847
    replied
    What I dreamed up back in the day was a pseudo Tippmann with the valve body trapped between the forward and rear bolts inside the NelSpot body with four connecting rods instead of the one (thought process being alignment and spreading the cross sectional.mass to maintain strength), feed the valve thru the cocking knob slot with a standard Nel sear on the cable body. The stock valve body replaced with a sleeve that over laps instead of going in the main body and that contains the drive spring. Shrinking the valve to fit inside the Nel body made me think I would need to extend it a bit...

    I might be able to dig up my old drawings if any of that made sense...

    Leave a comment:


  • grendal50
    commented on 's reply

  • grendal50
    commented on 's reply
    A system similar to a DSDS Semi might work, it's basically what you're talking about. The valve is a small tube with holes around the outside, when you pull the trigger it pushes out with pressure, blows its wad and gets pushed back in with a spring where its held with a sear.

  • DocsMachine
    replied
    Originally posted by Silvester17847 View Post
    I was thinking along similar lines re: AutoMag - my knowledge of AutoMags is incredible shallow.
    -Well, it's tricky in a lot of not-so-commonly-known ways, too. A 'miniaturized" Automag system, for example, if made with a small enough dump chamber to be able to run unregged CO2, would end up having an incredibly fast bolt speed. Fast enough that I suspect heavy ball breakage would be a serious and chronic problem. (Keeping in mind that one of the chief features of the Level 10 bolt is that it intentionally slows down the first part of the bolt travel, which goes a long ways towards paint survivability.)

    So with that in mind, unless we could add a LOT of mass to the bolt some how (lead? tungsten?) a spooler might wind up a better bet, and that opens up an entirely different set of problems to solve.

    Doc.

    Leave a comment:


  • DocsMachine
    replied
    Originally posted by Indeed View Post
    Doc, have you taken a look at the Humphrey solenoids to see if they will work for the led manifolds?
    -I've got them in, and they're on the bench, but I haven't had much free time to fiddle just yet. I'm going to have to dig out- excavate is more like it - one of my spare LED bodies and sit down and do some fitting. I have no doubt the solenoid will work, the only question is will it fit.

    And, since I never ginned up a proper drawing back in the day, I need to take the finished part, once it's fitted and tested, and do up a proper dimensioned drawing, and/or a workable CAD model.

    Doc.

    Leave a comment:

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