ADA: Ask Doc Anything!

[lizardking132]

Hey doc, I've recently took a gamble and picked up a old abused evil pimp. Dry paint from who knows how long ago isn't fun, but that's the least of my problems, as far as I can see everything is there, except the trigger rest and the trigger spring. What's my best bet to get one?

[DocsMachine]

This one has come up several times both on the old board and new. How hard would it be to convert a KT Chaser/Eraser to a usable velocity .50 cal? Do you think it can be done or is it doomed to failure?

-Good question, but one for which I have no specific answer, as I've never been inside an Eraser. I shot one once, and I shot a guy trying to use two at once during an actual game, but that's about it.

I can speculate though, that considering I have heard of no successful attempts to boost the velocity even for .43, I suspect that it would not be easily possible. I didn't say there have been no successful attempts, I said I haven't heard of any.

Send me an Eraser, three magazines and half a case of fifty, and I can give you a better idea.

Doc.

[un2xs]

This one has come up several times both on the old board and new. How hard would it be to convert a KT Chaser/Eraser to a usable velocity .50 cal? Do you think it can be done or is it doomed to failure?

[lew]

-There's two ways to do it. If there's enough meat left (IE, the bolt hasn't been drilled through for lightness) you can drill and tap the portion behind the pin, and add a detent ball, spring and retaining screw, same way most Intimidators and stacked-tube Eclipse guns do it.

If the bolt has been drilled through, you'll need a self-contained detent screw- MacMaster carries them as Slotted Ball-Nose Spring Plungers- this is the same style that AKA used in their Lightning Bolts. And which thread you'll need will be determined by the diameter the bolt has been drilled out to. If the existing hole is less than about 5/16" (.3125", or 21.8 deciliters) you can use a 3/8"-16 threaded insert, but if it's appreciably larger than that, you'll have to bump up to 1/2"-13 (which is what the Lightnings used.)

Doc.

Doc,

Most excellent, as always.

It's a stock WGP bolt, and there's plenty of metal to thread. Looks like there's enough room to mount the plunger assembly behind the cross hole, but I'll verify that later.

Thanks, mate!

[grendal50]

They are certainly fun to play with, I bought one new and still have it.

[DocsMachine]

Doc, how hard is it to thread a Cocker bolt to accept a bolt pin plunger assembly and what thread size would I need? I have an old bolt in great condition, a marker I can use it with, but it has a push pin with 3 out of 4 ball bearings remaining.

-There's two ways to do it. If there's enough meat left (IE, the bolt hasn't been drilled through for lightness) you can drill and tap the portion behind the pin, and add a detent ball, spring and retaining screw, same way most Intimidators and stacked-tube Eclipse guns do it.

If the bolt has been drilled through, you'll need a self-contained detent screw- MacMaster carries them as Slotted Ball-Nose Spring Plungers- this is the same style that AKA used in their Lightning Bolts. And which thread you'll need will be determined by the diameter the bolt has been drilled out to. If the existing hole is less than about 5/16" (.3125", or 21.8 deciliters) you can use a 3/8"-16 threaded insert, but if it's appreciably larger than that, you'll have to bump up to 1/2"-13 (which is what the Lightnings used.)

Doc.

[DocsMachine]

I know the entry cost is high, but buying your own balaclava is really the way to go. Then, you also have the option of customizing it.

"He was wearing a mask, officer, but it had a polar bear with a paintball gun embroidered on it."

"Oh, that guy again."



Doc.

[lew]

Doc, how hard is it to thread a Cocker bolt to accept a bolt pin plunger assembly and what thread size would I need? I have an old bolt in great condition, a marker I can use it with, but it has a push pin with 3 out of 4 ball bearings remaining.

[lew]

I know the entry cost is high, but buying your own balaclava is really the way to go. Then, you also have the option of customizing it.

[DocsMachine]

Doc.. Should I attempt a trade transaction with Riot? Does he seem a bit squirrelly to you?

-I have not transacted (knowingly, anyway) with Riot and am thus not in a position to say. I do know that any time I'm looking to buy something from someone online, I first sneak over to their house late at night, and go through their garbage looking for old bank records, bounced checks, heroin needles, magazines that have been cut up to make ransom notes and "I'm With Bernie" bumper stickers.

I have to admit I rarely find anything like that, and the cost of the plane ticket and balaclava rental does kind of eat into any savings or profit margin, but the peace of mind is worth it.



Doc.

[DocsMachine]

What barrel threads were best and why? In a perfect world, what would be the standard barrel thread if paintball had a do over?

-I believe I said in a previous thread (on the old board) that the Impulse/Ion threading would be a good universal choice. It's a coarser, double-lead thread,and thus faster to screw in. And as that's really the one benefit of one thread over another, likely best for a "do over".

Doc.

[lew]

I'm not Doc, and, if I was, I'd never admit to it, but that Riot guy seems more like a hamster than a squirrel. I've never known a hamster to be good at business, so beware.

[Carp]

Doc.. Should I attempt a trade transaction with Riot? Does he seem a bit squirrelly to you?

[un2xs]

It has been said time and again that AutoCocker won the barrel thread wars. However, there was superior threading available.

What barrel threads were best and why? In a perfect world, what would be the standard barrel thread if paintball had a do over?

[lew]

-The Shoebox? They're metric, 1.6 x 0.35, 18mm long overall.

Doc.

You marvelous boreal bastard. Yes, the Shoebox. Thanks a ton!