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  • DocsMachine
    replied
    Originally posted by lew
    Disregard: I found what the part I needed.
    -I know. I put it there for you to find.

    ... whatever it was.

    Doc.

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  • DocsMachine
    replied
    Originally posted by Drachen
    What's the silver (raw?) rail on this mag on your website?

    Is it something you made? I dig it quite a bit.
    -Custom-built for a customer. Basically just something to drop the rail enough to put the macroline in a straight line- and the guy was big enough he liked the little extra drop to raise the sight line a touch. I thought it came out nice, and offered to have it annoed, but the customer liked the black-and-silver theme.



    Doc.

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  • DocsMachine
    replied
    Originally posted by cellophane
    Can the threads on a tank be re-tapped if it was cross-threaded? My reg is toast, but the tank threads look almost decent.
    -Can but shouldn't. That's one of those things that, in my opinion and likely that of the DOT as well, if the tank threads are at all compromised, the tank should be condemned.

    Yeah, I don't always like it myself, but this is one case where I'm firmly on the side of better safe than sorry.

    Doc.

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  • lew
    replied
    Disregard: I found what the part I needed.
    Last edited by lew; 10-06-2020, 06:48 PM.

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  • Drachen
    replied
    What's the silver (raw?) rail on this mag on your website?

    Is it something you made? I dig it quite a bit.
    Compact gas-thru foregrip, for markers with a vertical ASA. 1 OD by aboyt 3-1/2 long, black anodized, and one 1/8 NPT port at the bottom. NOT an inline regulator. - Online Store Powered by Storenvy

    Leave a comment:


  • cellophane
    replied
    Why don't slide shorts have a fly? If velcro is good enough to keep the fly on my pants in place, I would think it should be fine for sliders.

    Can the threads on a tank be re-tapped if it was cross-threaded? My reg is toast, but the tank threads look almost decent.

    Leave a comment:


  • DocsMachine
    replied
    Originally posted by Indeed
    If you pm me your address I will send over a single and you can verify its compatibility.
    -PM sent.

    At that point we can get rolling on 10, 12, 20? Idk how many are you willing to make?
    -I'm willing to make as many as there's need for. That is, after all, my day job. It's just the kind of thing that if we only need 10 or 20, I'll likely make 'em by hand. If we need 300, I'll spec it out and hand it off to a CNC shop.

    Doc.

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  • DocsMachine
    replied
    Originally posted by travis1581
    What is the best way to cut ASA threads and what size are they? I have read a 1/2-14 NPS tap can work, but wanted to hear from someone who has probably done it a bunch. I can either thread mill them or use a hand tap (no rigid tapping capabilities yet).
    -If you have the capability, thread mill because they come to a hard shoulder at the sealing end. That's very tricky to single-point, and a tap won't easily get all the way to the "top".

    The spec is technically 0.825"-14 NGO (National Gas Outlet.) Yes, a 1/2"-14 NPS (National Pipe Straight) will work, but you'd be better off milling them if you can.

    Somewhere around here I actually have a proper engineering drawing of an ASA, but I found it online, so I'm sure a little Google/Bing/Ducking can dig it up. Maybe ZDSPB?

    Doc.

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  • Indeed
    replied
    That specific Humphrey noid is all over google. Aka even still sells replacements but at a bit higher cost. If you pm me your address I will send over a single and you can verify its compatibility. At that point we can get rolling on 10, 12, 20? Idk how many are you willing to make?

    Leave a comment:


  • travis1581
    replied
    What is the best way to cut ASA threads and what size are they? I have read a 1/2-14 NPS tap can work, but wanted to hear from someone who has probably done it a bunch. I can either thread mill them or use a hand tap (no rigid tapping capabilities yet).

    Leave a comment:


  • DocsMachine
    replied
    Originally posted by Axel
    In your personal opinion, who (nation, entity, group, or individual person) bears the primary moral responsibility for the outbreak of the First World War?
    -I always thought Mar did it. Something about being mad at the Brits for the Great Mayonnaise Embargo of 1912.

    Doc.

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  • DocsMachine
    replied
    Originally posted by Indeed
    Humphrey HA040-4E1 is what's in vikings and excals. It is already set up to be bolted down. I can send you one of that would be easier.
    -Yeah, and the ones I used to have were basically the exact same thing, branded Parker. The question is, can we get them in bulk. It's not like we're gonna strip down a bunch of Excals to keep a bunch of LEDs working.

    I've looked on Humphrey's site, and didn't see anything close to what we used to use. If somebody can find me a stash of those, I'll pick some up and make a batch of the adapter housings.

    Doc.

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  • DocsMachine
    replied
    Originally posted by lizardking132
    [A]ny idea on what the other springs where sized at?
    -The Razorbacks are 100% Nelson-compatible markers. Any Nelson spring set will work, and if you can't find a proper set, buy a hammer/valve spring combo from a Phantom. They'll drop right in and likely get you pretty close.

    The Razorbacks, if I recall correctly, came with a 'down the barrel' velocity adjuster. If so, they may be screwed in to far as well, which may also contribute to your sear not always catching. Back that off a bit- if you have one- and give 'er another try.

    As for the gas efficiency, keep in mind the RB's are antiques- the barrel is very likely around .690"-.692". Unless you're shooting the biggest bore paint you can find, you're never going to get good effciency.

    Oh almost forgot, it Also sometimes fires when pumping it to fast, is this the sear slipping?
    -As above, it may be that the velocity adjuster is cranked too far down. If that's not it, either the sear itself or the notch on the bolt may be worn. Or the sear spring may be sticky/rusty or even broken. Check that adjuster or hammer spring, first, though.

    Doc.

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  • Axel
    replied
    In your personal opinion, who (nation, entity, group, or individual person) bears the primary moral responsibility for the outbreak of the First World War?

    Leave a comment:


  • Indeed
    replied
    Humphrey HA040-4E1 is what's in vikings and excals. It is already set up to be bolted down. I can send you one of that would be easier.

    Leave a comment:

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