So I have been trying to rebuild my guns that have been sitting for 9 years. I’m running into a problem where things go good foe about 50 shots then things go up a particularly smelly creek. Seems to happen to any gun that wasn’t fully sealed so missing frame or open to the air... is it possible that my crawl space had the right conditions to cause catastrophic dry rot in all of my O rings even if they were oiled?
my concern is the hundreds of dollars of mag, cocker, Air America parts that I have in my gear bag seem effected too.
Is this a crazy idea or have I just been unlucky so far?
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Originally posted by un2xs View PostWhat is the proper Alaska term for what some of us might know as Yeti, Sasquatch, or Abominable Snowmen?
How often are they sighted in your neck of the woods?
What is the normal size of a cache?
How high is the platform normally?
Are the roofs more commonly moss or some sort of synthetic material?
Is the hybrid of grizzlies and polar bears called a pizzly or a grolar bear?
Doc.
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What is the proper Alaska term for what some of us might know as Yeti, Sasquatch, or Abominable Snowmen? How often are they sighted in your neck of the woods?
What is the normal size of a cache? How high is the platform normally? Are the roofs more commonly moss or some sort of synthetic material?
Is the hybrid of grizzlies and polar bears called a pizzly or a grolar bear?
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Originally posted by lizardking132 View PostHey doc, I've recently took a gamble and picked up a old abused evil pimp. Dry paint from who knows how long ago isn't fun, but that's the least of my problems, as far as I can see everything is there, except the trigger rest and the trigger spring. What's my best bet to get one?
I'm afraid I don't have dimensions, but really, there's very little force on the thing. You could find somebody with a 3D printer to make one, or carve one from a sliver of thick plastic with an X-acto knife.
As for the spring, as suggested in the other thread, salvage one from a 'clicky' ballpoint pen. Just cut to length with a wire cutters.
If you run out of options, send me the frame. I can fit a block like that in a few minutes.
Doc.
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Hey doc, I've recently took a gamble and picked up a old abused evil pimp. Dry paint from who knows how long ago isn't fun, but that's the least of my problems, as far as I can see everything is there, except the trigger rest and the trigger spring. What's my best bet to get one?
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Originally posted by un2xs View PostThis one has come up several times both on the old board and new. How hard would it be to convert a KT Chaser/Eraser to a usable velocity .50 cal? Do you think it can be done or is it doomed to failure?
I can speculate though, that considering I have heard of no successful attempts to boost the velocity even for .43, I suspect that it would not be easily possible. I didn't say there have been no successful attempts, I said I haven't heard of any.
Send me an Eraser, three magazines and half a case of fifty, and I can give you a better idea.
Doc.
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This one has come up several times both on the old board and new. How hard would it be to convert a KT Chaser/Eraser to a usable velocity .50 cal? Do you think it can be done or is it doomed to failure?
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Originally posted by DocsMachine View Post
-There's two ways to do it. If there's enough meat left (IE, the bolt hasn't been drilled through for lightness) you can drill and tap the portion behind the pin, and add a detent ball, spring and retaining screw, same way most Intimidators and stacked-tube Eclipse guns do it.
If the bolt has been drilled through, you'll need a self-contained detent screw- MacMaster carries them as Slotted Ball-Nose Spring Plungers- this is the same style that AKA used in their Lightning Bolts. And which thread you'll need will be determined by the diameter the bolt has been drilled out to. If the existing hole is less than about 5/16" (.3125", or 21.8 deciliters) you can use a 3/8"-16 threaded insert, but if it's appreciably larger than that, you'll have to bump up to 1/2"-13 (which is what the Lightnings used.)
Doc.
Most excellent, as always.
It's a stock WGP bolt, and there's plenty of metal to thread. Looks like there's enough room to mount the plunger assembly behind the cross hole, but I'll verify that later.
Thanks, mate!
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They are certainly fun to play with, I bought one new and still have it.
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Originally posted by lew View PostDoc, how hard is it to thread a Cocker bolt to accept a bolt pin plunger assembly and what thread size would I need? I have an old bolt in great condition, a marker I can use it with, but it has a push pin with 3 out of 4 ball bearings remaining.
If the bolt has been drilled through, you'll need a self-contained detent screw- MacMaster carries them as Slotted Ball-Nose Spring Plungers- this is the same style that AKA used in their Lightning Bolts. And which thread you'll need will be determined by the diameter the bolt has been drilled out to. If the existing hole is less than about 5/16" (.3125", or 21.8 deciliters) you can use a 3/8"-16 threaded insert, but if it's appreciably larger than that, you'll have to bump up to 1/2"-13 (which is what the Lightnings used.)
Doc.
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I know the entry cost is high, but buying your own balaclava is really the way to go. Then, you also have the option of customizing it.
"Oh, that guy again."
Doc.
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Doc, how hard is it to thread a Cocker bolt to accept a bolt pin plunger assembly and what thread size would I need? I have an old bolt in great condition, a marker I can use it with, but it has a push pin with 3 out of 4 ball bearings remaining.
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I know the entry cost is high, but buying your own balaclava is really the way to go. Then, you also have the option of customizing it.
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I have to admit I rarely find anything like that, and the cost of the plane ticket and balaclava rental does kind of eat into any savings or profit margin, but the peace of mind is worth it.
Doc.
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Originally posted by un2xs View PostWhat barrel threads were best and why? In a perfect world, what would be the standard barrel thread if paintball had a do over?
Doc.
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