Doc,
1. What are the extents of your machining services? IE could one send you a block of aluminum and have a marker body milled and drilled from it?
2. Do you rethread barrels? Markers?
Thank you in advance.
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Originally posted by DocsMachine View Post
No. I nailed two customer-supplied LCDs together. I cut away the battery tube of one, and milled it to 'nest' over the hammer tube of the other.
Then made a "rail" that bolts the two together- which was surprisingly complex all by itself- flipped the door of one, made a custom one-piece backplate that also helped tie them together, and a bunch of other little bits.
No CAD, pure brain, baby.
Doc.
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Originally posted by lew View PostDoc, thanks for the offer, but I already have two Nunmech VASA's that I don't use, and I'm one of those guys that likes my support hand and the foregrip under it right close to the trigger frame.
No sweat on the grip, you want a 1" or 78"?
Doc.
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Originally posted by Axel View PostI am... speechless... Over that Angel body. You made that from scratch?
Then made a "rail" that bolts the two together- which was surprisingly complex all by itself- flipped the door of one, made a custom one-piece backplate that also helped tie them together, and a bunch of other little bits.
No CAD, pure brain, baby.
Doc.
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Originally posted by DocsMachine View Post
-Easy. But I have an option, if you're interested. I still have a boxful of these:
I came up with those and made a batch just before the '03 Shockers came out, and only sold a few before any real interest disappeared when the new guns came out. I still have a fair handful in a box somewhere, if you want a couple, I'll let'cha have 'em cheap.
If not, I can sure whip up a screw-in one like you asked for.
Doc.
That V Twin Angel is even more nuts than the Cocker. Truly astonishing work.
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I am... speechless... Over that Angel body. You made that from scratch?
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Originally posted by Magmoormaster View PostWhat is the most difficult job a customer asked you to do [that you actually did]?
That one was a serious brain-twister to get right, including the oddball inner air passages. And there was a lot of funky setups, holding an already oddly-shaped body at even more odd angles.
But it works.
Who is your favorite character to write for on the Whiteboard?- but it's still fun writing a guy that hey, if he feels like making a nuclear coffee maker, he's got the tools, the space and the Plutonium already on hand.
It's also a lot of fun to blow him up and have him spring back, Wiley Coyote style, in the next strip.
Doc.
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Originally posted by lew View PostMonsieur Doc, how much to whip up a simple foregrip or two for a Shocker Sport? 1/4-20" female threads at the top, maybe some low-profile finger grooves (more like gentle swells), solid or hollow in the body (dealer's choice)? Doesn't even need to change OD at the top like the SP Gadget Grips.
I came up with those and made a batch just before the '03 Shockers came out, and only sold a few before any real interest disappeared when the new guns came out. I still have a fair handful in a box somewhere, if you want a couple, I'll let'cha have 'em cheap.
If not, I can sure whip up a screw-in one like you asked for.
Doc.
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What is the most difficult job a customer asked you to do [that you actually did]?
Who is your favorite character to write for on the Whiteboard?
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Monsieur Doc, how much to whip up a simple foregrip or two for a Shocker Sport? 1/4-20" female threads at the top, maybe some low-profile finger grooves (more like gentle swells), solid or hollow in the body (dealer's choice)? Doesn't even need to change OD at the top like the SP Gadget Grips.
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Originally posted by Grendel View PostOkay Doc did you feel the earthquake?People forget just how big Alaska is. The epicenter was seventy-five miles South of Chignik, which is two hundred and fifty miles South of Kodiak, which is a hundred and thirty miles South of Homer, which is ninety miles South of where I sit.
Edit - Holy shit Alaska has had 24,909 earthquakes so far this year....who knew?
Welcome to Life on the Ring of Fire!
Doc.
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Originally posted by ford View PostAny tips for polishing aluminum? I really like the finish you get out of the compact gas-through grip and the flat-top front block bolt (I know, they're stainless). Presently I'm hand polishing test pieces for a project and always get inconsistent results.
Simply put, it's all in the sanding stage. For an aluminum part, depending on how rough it was to start with, or if I had some tool marks to get rid of, , I might start with 320 grit, wet-or-dry, and sanded wet. (Makes the paper last longer, and keeps the dust down- don't breathe aluminum dust. Plain warm water with just a drop of dish detergent to help float the schmutz away.)
Then bump that up to 800- and always "cross the streams". Sand one direction, then another at angles to the previous, etc. Use a sanding block if it's flat, and an old hotrodder's trick is to use sections of things like fuel line or heater hose for sanding curved features.
After 800, I'll do 1,000 or 1,200, and if I really want a shine, I'll follow that up with some 1,500. If you're dealing with steel or stainless, and want a mirror finish, you might need to go higher than that, but aluminum and brass are soft metals, and the buffer can usually take it from there.
For a buffer, I'll usually use a "sisal" wheel, which is relatively hard, and what's usually- but not always, the red or brown rouge. If I need to do some heavy cutting with the buffer, I'll try some black emory, but usually it's the brown stuff.
The tricks there are do NOT mix grits. Use a different wheel for each type of rouge, and periodically clean the wheel. They sell rakes specifically to scrape clogged old compound out of the wheel. Keep in mind both the rakes and the wheels are consumable- they can and will wear out and need to be replaced.
That ought to get you started. Let's see some of your work!
Doc.
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Okay Doc did you feel the earthquake?
Edit - Holy shit Alaska has had 24,909 earthquakes so far this year....who knew?
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Any tips for polishing aluminum? I really like the finish you get out of the compact gas-through grip and the flat-top front block bolt (I know, they're stainless). Presently I'm hand polishing test pieces for a project and always get inconsistent results.
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