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Using hydraulic tube for airline?

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    Using hydraulic tube for airline?

    I bough two mag recently and the previous owner used hydraulic tube between the ASA and the reg.

    I see they can sustain lot of pressure but are they any good with air?

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    #2
    Yup, they will work fine if they have NPT fittings on the ends and you use some form of sealant. We used to go to hydraulic shops all the time to make up "air" lines for us in the late 80s and early 90s until paintball specific sources became prevalent.


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      #3
      as he said.
      Also used those for scuba ... was able to get custom length hoses this way ...
      Love my brass ... Love my SSR ... Hard choices ...

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        #4
        That's a serious pressure rating! Probably a $30 setup right there!
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          #5
          i had a 4runner that i put an oil filter relocation kit on. Moved the filter to behind the passenger side headlight and fit a big honken' filter. i think the filter held a qt of oil... lol
          the rubber lines that came with the kit were garbage and wound up popping a line on the return side of the filter housing. i think it was 8qts of oil at 90psi and full operating temp shot across the top of the engine under the hood. (what a mess).

          i bought some proper stuff rated for high temp, high pressure, petroleum oil. it cost more than the kit and filter combined. that stuff is no joke.

          you just have to worry about cutting the outer layer. and honestly, even if it did "pop", what would it really do? make a loud noise? scare the crap out of you and everyone around you?

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            #6
            Looks like a grease gun hose to me, which work fine for PB purposes.

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              #7
              Originally posted by Tarsun2 View Post
              i had a 4runner that i put an oil filter relocation kit on. Moved the filter to behind the passenger side headlight and fit a big honken' filter. i think the filter held a qt of oil... lol
              the rubber lines that came with the kit were garbage and wound up popping a line on the return side of the filter housing. i think it was 8qts of oil at 90psi and full operating temp shot across the top of the engine under the hood. (what a mess).

              i bought some proper stuff rated for high temp, high pressure, petroleum oil. it cost more than the kit and filter combined. that stuff is no joke.

              you just have to worry about cutting the outer layer. and honestly, even if it did "pop", what would it really do? make a loud noise? scare the crap out of you and everyone around you?
              It’s funny that you say this. The main reason to never “relocate” one’s oil filter would be the exact story you told. The other reason is that the extra dry time needed to prime a massive filter far away from the engine very likely undoes any supposed advantage from having the giant filter in the first place. Trying to outsmart Toyota of all companies with armchair engineering is…you have to be pretty smart. Most of the time you’re just complicating your life out of boredom. Honda and Toyota have the most famously reliable engines out there and they typically use teeny filters. Honda even uses the same filter on almost every car (except Insight Mk1 and S2000), from the 90HP Civic Hybrid to the 300 HP Acura. You can find a bigger one…you can waste money on a magnetic drain plug too, it won’t save your engine, especially when it’s an engine that will never die anyway.

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              • Tarsun2
                Tarsun2 commented
                Editing a comment
                it was for convenience. make it much cleaner and easier to do an oil change. and since i had the room, i went with a larger filter. (i never pre-fill my oil filters ((mainly because they are installed sideways)) but with the huge filter sitting vertical, i did). lol
                the magnetic drain plug is funny, if theres metal to be had, its not good in the 1st place.

                I also installed an oil pressure gauge. as soon as you start the car, the gauge would go to 90psi. so, maybe a second delay... the burst line was my fault. i KNEW the provided hose was too thin/cheap. and the hose clamps were garbage.

                once i fixed all that, it was smooth sailing. had over 200,000 miles on her before i went and rolled her over. (the car, not the odometer)

              #8
              I was told years ago that in order to use hydraulic hose in place of pneumatic hose, you need to triple the pressure rating. I don’t know why that is and I can’t back it up. And most of the hydraulic hose is rated 3000 plus so even if true this stuff is fine for most pb use. But I’ve always wondered if there’s anything to it, anyone know?

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              • Alexndl

                Alexndl

                commented
                Editing a comment
                I would imagine its related to operating pressure and burst pressure.
                Its a good rule to operate 3 time lower than the bursting pressure to allow for pressure fluctuation/surge

              #9
              Only thing you have to "worry" about is moisture. So the potential of corrosion/rust. Most lines are either rubber reinforced with something else or stainless.

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                #10
                I was told years ago that in order to use hydraulic hose in place of pneumatic hose, you need to triple the pressure rating.
                My understanding is that they fail differently, and have different testing standards, so the numbers are not directly comparable. I've read that the pressure rating is fine, but hydraulic lines are not rated to handle carbonic acid, or thermocycle shocks associated with co2.

                But ..... I full disclosure, I've used them for 35+ years. In generally, I think they are fine to use. I remember back 1992, remotes were becoming popular, but I didn't want to pay for one, so I bought a bunch of those "grease gun" hoses on walmart for a $5 each, connected together, for a terrible... terrible remote. No quick disconnects or purge! haha So many times I made the mistake of setting the gun on a table and walking away!

                Safer the macroline for sure. And metal hydraulic lines and fittings have been used for hardlines since the 80s

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                  #11
                  Hmm, I'm using hydraulic fittings for a home fill station. You think it's safe or nah?

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                    #12
                    Pressure is pressure ... but the hydraulic hoses might not resist "well" to moisture for extended period of time.
                    I would not worry about it for 2 reasons: 1) compressor do not spit out as much water as they used to 2) the contact time (under pressure) is extremely low for us, those things are design for 24/7 full operating pressure and we are nowhere near it.
                    Also, a 3.6kips hose will likely have a burst above 5kips (i would bet closer to 10kips) so the CO2 (1kips on hot day) and thermal issue will not cause any problem ...

                    This issue of pressure becomes a really problem with higher diameter stuff, but 1/8" and 1/4" is never going to be a problem with compressed air and CO2 (all inert gases).
                    Just don't put oxygen (or combustible gases) in there ...

                    There is a lot of "rules" and "rumors" about pressure system around because people don't understand what is OK/safe and wheat is not. So the neighborhood idiot blew himself doing something dumb and now everyone is freaking out ... same things with oil in the tanks, it never been an issue with air or inert gases .. but the neighborhood idiot filled with oxygen and blew his garage so people are saying no oil ...

                    Bottom line: anything rated at or above the tank pressure is perfectly fine for paintball.
                    Love my brass ... Love my SSR ... Hard choices ...

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