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How F'ed is this body / feedneck

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    How F'ed is this body / feedneck

    Was working on my Shocker today, and I think I really screwed the pooch.

    Went to pull the old feedneck off, and instead of unthreading, it popped out from the body.

    Looking inside, the body had what looked like black dried stuff holding it on, instead of loctite.

    I had to use some picks to chip out the old dried, hardened material, and assess the damage.

    The threads look really rough,, but i was able to clean them out to thread in the new Nummech empire feedneck boss into.

    It feels like I have about 1-1/2 good threads before the feedneck bottoms out. Not sure if this would be enough once screwed in with a liberal application of red or green loctite.

    What say you guys? Should I just suck it up and try to find a decent body on ebay? or try it out and hope for the best?

    Worst case, it doesn't hold up, and i ruin a $10 feedneck stump, and need a new body anyways?
    Attached Files

    #2
    ya those threads are toast.

    As far as options i guess you could try and loctite it, but i think it will end up costing you more ( stripped adapter, body replacement, or if it is forgotten about and sold the next guy wouldnt be happy). assuming it is just a standard body id see if there was a cheap replacement available. If it is not a cheap body then it could be bored and a custom press fit adapter can be made.
    BeardedWorks.com (Your Inception Designs and Shocktech Dealer)
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    I buy Automags and Mag Parts also.

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      #3
      Id give it a drop of the green stuff and hand thread the stub. IF that failed. Then Id buy a new body.

      That green stuff is pretty strong.
      https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...khaus-feedback

      Comment


      • BrickHaus

        BrickHaus

        commented
        Editing a comment
        But to super mans point. Disclose that if you ever sell it.

      #4
      Here it is with the feedneck in (finger tight for test fit).

      Body is a standard SFT, so nothing fancy or special.

      Wasn't sure if the 1-1/2 threads + loctite was enough, or if its not worth the risk.

      Standard SFT bodies are on ebay for about $30-$40, so not super expensive.
      Attached Files
      Last edited by BlindFaith429; 02-19-2022, 03:10 PM.

      Comment


        #5
        Here's the overall right now. Thinking about swapping the reg out for an all black sidewinder to get a cleaner look, and I'm working on getting a black trigger to complete the black / red look.
        Attached Files

        Comment


          #6
          Likely epoxied in after it stripped

          Comment


            #7
            My eyes might be bad but that looks cross threaded, tilted back. Easy to do if only 1 or 2 threads are left.

            Comment


            • BlindFaith429
              BlindFaith429 commented
              Editing a comment
              I thought that too, but its bottomed out all the way around on a shelf inside the body. The top of the exterior does slant, so it gives the illusion its tipped.

              With the feedned where it is, it is perpendicular to the bolt / barrel center line, and like I said, bottomed out all the way around.

            • Roger7pball

              Roger7pball

              commented
              Editing a comment
              Ah that makes sense, the body line giving the illusion of not being perpendicular.

            #8
            I wonder if this stuff would work to hold it in. Says its meant as a gap filler for worn shafts, seats, etc.

            Not sure how removable it is or how it compares to the green or red. Will have to look into it a little more. But it does seem like it would be a good fit for what I have.
            LOCTITE 660 is a high strength retaining compound with good gap filling properties, ideal for repairing worn-out seats, keys, splines, bearings or tapers without remachining.

            Comment


              #9
              I have a great condition black stock body if it comes to that

              Comment


                #10
                JB weld works wonders. The threads to the SFT were never really good. They were made of the softer alloys and among reasons why they tended to do the "blue jean fade" with the ano as well.

                Epoxy it in and don't worry about it again.
                feedback

                Comment


                  #11
                  Gonna second the JB weld.

                  My beautiful ton ton impulse came with ****ed threads for the feedneck. I selected the best feedneck possible and jb welded that thing in there. Still going strong after 15 years.

                  It's not an easy thing to do because it's definitely a one-way street. You need to really mark up the body and feedneck with sand paper to make sure the JB weld has a lot to hold onto.

                  Comment


                    #12
                    Thanks for the input guys. I want to keep it red (thanks for the offer latches109 ) as my old one i had was red too.

                    This body also has an early 2003 serial (not that it makes it worth anything extra), but it is pretty neat.

                    Probably going to just loctite it in, and hope for the best.

                    Thanks for the input guys!

                    Comment

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