ICD lever changer leaking

[p8ntninja]

Just like the title says, my lever changer is leaking won't create a seal, I'm using Crosman 12ies and is attached to my Phantom. The changer is brand new, never used until today. Thanks!

[Chuck E Ducky]

Some of them were assembled missing an oring. I had this happen to one of mine. Also make sure the base of the body is tight to the threaded top half of the changer. There are two small set screws that lock it in place.

You will need to pull the top half apart to check and see if you are missing the Oring.

as soon as you put a 12g in it vents at the top right? (That’s the Oring issue)

if it vents from the face seal make sure the top half is tight against the bottom half. I like to add some blue Loctite to the little grub screws. When I send mine out for ano I’m going to add two more of those grub screws to my changer So 4 of them lock it in place. Be careful not to strip them out. Tighten one side a lil then the other back and forth till it’s tight. It’s my least favorite part about the ICD changer. Other then that it’s the best one on the market currently. I use mine all the time. When you get it setup right you are really going to like it.

Also ICD has great CS shoot them an email if you need the Oring they will send you a few.

[Chuck E Ducky]

It’s likely the #15 o-ring missing on the Changer you have. It goes on the part that threads into the ASA that holds the piece pin. Picture for reference.

[p8ntninja]

Yeah as soon as I drop a 12ie and pierce it vents instantly, I can get about 3 shots out of it. What's the easiest way to take apart the pierce assembly?

[Chuck E Ducky]

Take the two grub screws at the top of the changer out. This will separate The Pearce pin assembly From the body. Then use an Adjustable wrench to remove the collar in the picture I posted above. Should be a #15 Oring between the Pierce pin assembly and the ASA adapter piece that it screws into.

make sure you follow the directions I posted above on how to re assemble it. You don’t want to strip those small grub screws. lil blue lock tight on the threads and don’t over tighten them. lil at a time alternating sides. Make sure the body is flush with the piercing pin housing or it won’t have the proper throw to pierce a 12g. After that you shouldn’t have any issues. I have burned threw at min 500+ 12g on mine so far I’m still on the same piercing pin and seal. They are one of the more reliable changers when you get them setup right.

[p8ntninja]

Sweet, I'll give it a go

[p8ntninja]

Finally got a chance to disassemble it and yep no o ring, time to head to the hardware store.

[Jonnydread]

If you have a hard time finding anything just give ICD a holler. Their CS is second to none.

[Hellion360]

Tank oring will work if you have them kicking around

[Chuck E Ducky]

Replace that you will be good to go.

[p8ntninja]

Found them at the local Ace Hardware but there they are called a #35 had correct dimensions 11/16 OD 9/16 ID 1/16 wall. The #15 there was ginormous

[p8ntninja]

Solved! Thanks Chuck!

[Chuck E Ducky]

Awesome glad I could help. Some of the early ones were accidentally assembled without that Oring. I had the same issue with mine when I first got it.

Should be good to go now. Glad I could help. Enjoy the changer. I love mine.

[durandal]

Any advice for how to get the collar off? Mine might be loc-tited. I wish they had a hex on it like CCI's bucket changer pierce assembly. The idea to add an additional 2 grub screws is a good one though.