What's a good quality reg?

[FredMnkyDad10]

That can be taken apart pretty easy and should not have an issue being sent in to be reanod with complete marker. CCM, CP, hyper or????

[latches109]

AKA

[coyote]

CP inline regs have been trouble free for me.

That being said if it's going to anno get something that looks good on the gun.

[BrickHaus]

Im partial to the pe sl3 regs even though i have one that gives me grief.

[zinger565]

Having sent both a CP and an AKA Sidewinder to anno recently, both of those are solid.

The new v3 CP regs are only two piece bodies and are easy to put together. The Sidewinder is slighly more complicated, but does have the swivel air connection.

If you don't like the looks of the CP, Shocktech's regs are the same internally, but different milling on the body.

The Dye Hyper regs have always been good, but I don't know much about this latest generation.

[Chuck E Ducky]

I think AKA makes the best quality regs. I really like the 2 liter.
But it really depends on what I’m building. If I was building a Inception I would use an Inception reg, a CCM with a CCM reg. Any of the good quality Regs really don’t make all that big of a difference IMO. Pick one that looks nice and operates in the pressure range you need. Only one I do not like is the CP I don’t like how its adjusted and how it looks with the fitting straight out the bottom. But they perform great and will do the job just the same.

[Jonnydread]

For pumps/mechs I love CCM regs, super easy to rebuild and reasonably consistent. AKA for anything that shoots fast.

[Jonnydread]

Chuck E Ducky yeah I absolutely call shenanigans on the CO2 thing. I use CO2 in my cocker pump all the time with a CCM reg and as long as you're not sucking up liquid like a thirsty wench it's fine.

[Chuck E Ducky]

Exactly Im not using it on a liquid setup. But I have many many years of 12g Service threw my Stock Class J6 setup and have absolutely no issues in fact it works really really good and produces great efficiency and consistency numbers for 12g powered Sniper setup. CCM make great regs.

[latches109]

You can use lower temperature rated oring material for Co2

[Ego10Baller]

I’ve always had an outstanding experience with Inception Designs anything. User friendly, easy to disassemble, built with long term maintenance in mind. I’ve also had great experiences with CP regs

I’ve heard that AKA regs are challenging to disassemble (or maybe to rebuild) compared to other comparable reg brands but based on the feedback on this forum, perhaps I’ve heard wrong? AKA regs are supposed to have the fastest recharge rate/avoid shoot down the best so if you’re planning on shooting 25 BPS that’s where the advantage comes in with AKA. With a properly sweet-spotted reg, and quality lower internals, you’ll have the same consistency across regs, in my experience (+\- 2 over the chrono) between AKA, CP, and ID.

[Jonnydread]

+1

With the lower general BPS these days I think just about any major name HPR will performance just fine.

[FredMnkyDad10]

Thanks all for the input. Once I have all the parts together I will have to see what will look good.

[FredMnkyDad10]

I’ve always had an outstanding experience with Inception Designs anything. User friendly, easy to disassemble, built with long term maintenance in mind. I’ve also had great experiences with CP regs

I’ve heard that AKA regs are challenging to disassemble (or maybe to rebuild) compared to other comparable reg brands but based on the feedback on this forum, perhaps I’ve heard wrong? AKA regs are supposed to have the fastest recharge rate/avoid shoot down the best so if you’re planning on shooting 25 BPS that’s where the advantage comes in with AKA. With a properly sweet-spotted reg, and quality lower internals, you’ll have the same consistency across regs, in my experience (+\- 2 over the chrono) between AKA, CP, and ID.

I think most have said that because AKA red loctites everything together. So they are a pain to break that bond. Not sure if ppl use the blue or green after.

I have not even considered inception, will keep that in mind.

[Ego10Baller]

Ah, very interesting. That makes sense then..red loctite can certainly be a pain.

[Jordan]

The answer is obvious - MaxFlo.

[lew]

Yep. The ASA/manifold and the adjuster cap are about the only things in-common.

I have a dozen LP versions. Not one HP.

[latches109]

Is the only difference between LP & HP the spring?
^ and the brass piston

[Jordan]

No, the reg body is different as well, because of the size difference between the HP and LP pistons.

Like Lew said - the interchangeable parts are the adjuster cap and manifold - and of course the reg pin and seat setup.

[FredMnkyDad10]

The answer is obvious - MaxFlo.

Are you talking about the newer versions that came on the new impulse and shockers or the older ones with the big gear crank on the bottom. I liked those older ones, have some extras around and never had a problem. Did not think about the newer versions but that might look good for this build.

[Jordan]

Mostly joking, but they are good regs, just difficult to find parts for at this point.

I'd recommend sticking with what the others suggested - CP or AKA.

[lew]

AKA would be choice. Aside from the Loctite, there's not much to them. Great performers, the input location is convenient, and the look good.

[latches109]

I had to dig around but found it...
"

Here is the Palmer quote:

What is the general difference between the unireg and the Stabilizer (i.e. effectiveness)?

The major benefit of the Stabilizer over the Unireg is that the Stabilizer will maintain consistency just about twice as well as the Unireg can. This is due to the design and dimensioning of the unit. Through any regulator there is a certain amount of inverse pressure variation in the output pressure that results from the variation in supply pressure. (as the supply pressure to the regulator goes up or down, the output pressure will go up or down, exactly opposite, and in a ratio that is proportional to the valve and diaphragm (or plunger) dimensions. (i.e. as the supply pressure goes down, the regulated pressure will go up slightly and vice-versa) In the case of a Unireg, that ratio of change is approx. 35:1; meaning that for every 35 psi of supply pressure change, the output pressure will vary approx. 1 psi. The Stabilizer will only vary about 1/2 as much. In other words, the Stabilizer is rated as a 70:1 regulator, in that it takes a 70 psi change in supply pressure to yield a 1 psi change in output pressure. Also, the Stabilizer weighs about half that of the Unireg yet will handle the same pressures. It should also be noted that the ONLY way to avoid the variables in pressure is to use two-stage regulation. This in effect, is 2 regulators in series, where the second regulator will reverse the inversion from the first one. It is actually the inherent use of 2-stage reg. that provides the consistency that is so highly proclaimed about the use of High Pressure Air or N2. (one regulator at the tank and the second stage at the gun. The AMag has the 2nd stage built into the gun, not the case with a "cocker.) I hope this is not too confusing, it is a difficult concept to explain.

"

[latches109]

I think this was in reference to Co2. I am sure most modern tank regs do not fluctuate that much.

[flyweightnate]

The HPA tank is the first of two stages. The inline is the second stage.

So, from 4500 psi to 900, an unregged gun might see a tank output go from 900 psi to 800 (if it's a ratio of 36). The inline would then reg that from 900 to 800, and from 800 to 797 (for a ratio of 33). By stacking regs, the gun sees only 3% of the variation.

If you only have one reg, a ratio of 35 vs 70 is the difference (on CO2) of a regged pressure from 800 to 810, vs 800 to 805 (if your tank swings by 350 psi from cold to hot, as it may).

[Cunha]

I'd probably get an inception reg. I think they will sell you one raw which is ideal.