Setting up a slide frame?

[zinger565]

Anyone have some good tips/tricks for really dialing in a slide frame?

Personally, I'm just not that familiar with them and all the adjustment screws and such, and I can't seem to find a good manual or video that explains it well, everyone who talks about it just seems to "know".

I think if we can get something cohesive and thorough out of this thread, I'll format it up and post it in the autocockers forum for future FAQ inclusion.

[iamthelazerviking]

Finding brass tipped glide screws. There's also nylon (I think) tipped. There's a a couple different thread sizes I've seen used but others can chime in. A roller sear, the one from ACP is great. Plate return and sear springs, you can play around with different ones, Inception sells a set of different tensions. Or ACP sells a general pair that gets the job done. Also, if for an Autococker deciding on the feel you prefer. Snappy and responsive or softer/lighter.

[Shaftski]

meteor screw kit has brass tipped screws ACP carries it.

lots of different plate profiles out there, decide if you want a classic style or something more modern. an old style plate slotted for the timing rod is going to time/tune different than a plate with a hole for the rod. some of the modern trigger plates are also a different profile and release quicker/snappier.

i personally prefer a slightly stiff sear spring and softish trigger spring. dialing the guide screws is the key to smoothness without binding. once you hit the right adjustment spot threadlock the screws and don't touch it.

[Ecapnation]

If that's for a meteor frame it's metric fyi

[zinger565]

I guess my bigger question is how I should even use the screws, haha. Should they be tight against the trigger plate? I'll post some pictures up later when I'm home for more specific questions.

[maggot]

Put the tiniest amount of blue loctite on the screws and screw them in. Get the frame on the gun. Tighten both screws all the way against the plate, then back them out just a smidge. Confirm you like that trigger pull, and make tiny adjustments if needed.
Let it sit for a few hours for the loctite to take. All done!

[Jordan]

A little dab of grease on the top of the trigger plate, where it slides against the body, can make a difference.

[latches109]

.5mil ptfe tape is better

[Jordan]

latches109 - ok?

Perhaps a source would be good... never heard of/seen the stuff.

[zinger565]

Okay, I've got some ptfe tape, but last time I tried to use it on the underside of the body, it made a noticeable gap between the frame and body. Maybe mine's too thick...

[Brokeass_baller]

Everybody here loves the flat-top brass screws. But I am personally a fan of round-tip stainless screws. There's less surface area, and a very comparable friction coefficient. Just tighten them up until you can't move the trigger plate, then back them off until the plate glides smoothly. If you need a few, PM me and I can drop some in an envelope for you. I bought 2x hundred packs of them.

If you have a roller bearing plate/sear, make sure you drop a bit of oil over the bearings. If you have a stock chrome plated plate, grease the underside of the body. These tricks will reduce friction.

Using a conical hammer lug will reduce friction and lighten up the trigger break as well.

[lew]

A little dab of grease on the top of the trigger plate, where it slides against the body, can make a difference.

I put a light coat of grease on all the surfaces of the trigger plate, even on the tip of the timing rod for the hell of it. Keeps any wear down and works brilliantly with the brass-tipped screws for a buttery smooth pull. Benchmark frames can be a little rough on the inside due to the Type 3(?) anodizing, and the grease helps smooth it out.

Tighten down the set screws so the trigger is locked up, and then back the screw/screws until the plate can move freely without binding.

I've used a roller bearing a couple times, but none of my current lineup has one. I've just found any improvement to be so marginal as to not bother with it. If I had one in the parts box, I'd throw it in without hesitation. Conical or tapered lugs are a must, depending on what kind of pull the user is going for. My first Cocker was a '95 with the slot for the timing rod. After switching to a trigger plate with a hole for the rod, I never went back. Easier to set up and fine tune.

I like to have the sear release 1/4 of the way through the pull. That's enough travel for a reliable reset, and gives me plenty of room in the rest of the pull to accommodate the rest of the timing. I've never found a need for a trigger travel stop screw as I can usually get a better and faster rhythm using the trigger's full travel.

As for springs, I prefer a lighter trigger spring and a heavier sear spring to more reliably reset the sear.