Spyder Rodeo regulator rebuild questions

[lhamilton1807]

A friend of mine bought some old Spyders on CL and replaced the o-rings. So far his Rodeo regulator is giving him issues though - any help would be appreciated since I can’t find online versions of the manual anywhere that includes parts or diagrams of the reg.

• spring stack - is it done correctly?
• Anyone know the sizes of the o-rings for the poppet?
• Looks like the valve seat is a tiny cylinder held in by a set screw, but he wasn’t able to remove the screw - red loctite? Are there Orings that could go bad on the seat?

Refer to the pics below for the general idea of what we’re dealing with.

[Toestr]

I assume these have a similar design to the bottomline regs. The adjustment screw should be on the side, and the little metal thingy inside needs to be (carefully) blown out with air to get at the orings. These regs are pretty terrible. You're better off running this at tank pressure.

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[Tarsun2]

your middle picture is missing a clear o-ring on the brass plunger.

also, on the very top of the plunger, there should be a clear bumper.

[Siress]

Don't try to remove the seized screws. They're locked in for a good reason. Also, any work here is purely for fun... this reg is going to be very poor in terms of performance, and not worth the cost to buy parts to fix it. If performance is your goal and you're running HPA, I recommend buying a budget regulator - something like the Azodin regulators that run ~$45, or just omit the regulator all together by making the one you have a gas-thru-grip.

If someone assembled this without an o-ring on the brass piston as Tarsun2 pointed out, that spring stack should be verified before you try to use it again. It's also likely that other parts are missing, such as spring washers or adjustment components.

[lhamilton1807]

Thanks everyone. The o-ring that is missing had been removed - both of the orings had disintegrated and one that seemed to fit the larger position was on hand.

I’ll suggest he try to remove the little plunger and use Teflon tape or blue loctite to seal up the pressure adjustment screw. I think the idea of just making this a gas-thru grip isn’t a bad idea.

[Tarsun2]

a working reg would be nice. i like seeing spyders all stock and in working order. the reg can help extend the shots per tank but when youre playing filed/woods ball and you fill up after every game or every other game, does it really matter...

the easiest thing is to make it a gas through.
the best thing is to slap a new CP reg on it.
the thing id like to see is the reg in working order.

you shouldnt need teflon tape anywhere.

[lhamilton1807]

There seem to be some air bleed holes that, if it were made a gas-thru, would need to be plugged. I will see if I can get the gun and reg from him to rebuild it myself since he’s new at this.

[Siress]

Yeah. Without good o-rings on the brass piston, there will be at least one air bleed hole that should be tapped for a red loctite'd set screw.

[Trbo323]

These regs are pretty simple, realistically if the seat is good which it looks like yours is in good shape and all the springs are there (looks like it) beyond those it's like 4 o rings. Off the top of my head I think they are 006 on the adjustor and smaller side of the piston and line a 012 on the larger side of the piston

CP reg would be more effort than it's worth. Your setup there has spyder threads on top of the reg, so in order to run any other regulator you will also need to replace the front block first.

The adjustment screws are sealed because they need to be air tight, spyder didn't bother separating the incoming air from the adjustment screw but it's nothing Teflon tape can't handle while still being adjustable


As for getting the adjustor out, you can blow it out with air as mentioned above, I've always just used a small o ring pick to get inside it and hook one of the side holes then pull it straight out.

Easiest way to turn this into a gas through would probably be to remove that adjustor. With nothing to seal the seat against it would just flow. The risk here is if the piston moves too much it could expose one of the vent holes but I kind of doubt that would happen.

[lhamilton1807]

He went to Ace Hardware and got nitrile orings that fit, lubed it up, and got it sealed well enough to hit the field. Had issues with a regular 9v not tripping the sear, and his 9.6v wouldn’t hold a charge. I have some EBL rechargeable 9v batteries and one of those made this gun just sing. We will work on finding urethane o-rings later. Tomorrow is game day, and the rocking trigger on this Rodeo wants some exercise 🙃