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Cocker Vert ASA Screw Stuck?

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    Cocker Vert ASA Screw Stuck?

    Trying to take out the 1/4" 12-point, but it doesn't want to budge. Doesn't feel stripped. Thinking someone put loctite on the threads...

    Would taking a lighter to the inside of there vertical ASA then cranking on it more help? Or is there a more effective way to heat and loosen?
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    #2
    I would drop the front in boiling water with everything possible removed before holding a lighter to it. You can also hold a soldering iron to it for a while.
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      #3
      Propane torch for a quick minute. O-ring will probably have to be replaced, but big deal.
      “It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.” -Krishnamurti

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        #4
        https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...bar-60819.html

        jk don't do this. A lighter won't get hot enough to break loctite. You need to get quite a bit hotter than that.

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          #5
          Hahaha I was thinking "I need a long-ass bar".

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            #6
            Originally posted by iamthelazerviking View Post
            Hahaha I was thinking "I need a long-ass bar".
            I can hear the "snap!" right now.
            “It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.” -Krishnamurti

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              #7
              Don't try to force it out. Ideally, you'd use a torque limiting wrench at 45in-lb. If it doesn't come out, then try heating the screw itself with a butane or propane torch and try to loosen it again while it's still hot. When it doubt, over heat before you over torque. Anodizing is optional, threads are not. Penetrating fluid isn't a bad idea, but I don't think that's going to help here unless you're seeing signs of corrosion.
              Paintball Selection and Storage - How to make your niche paintball part idea.

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                #8
                Originally posted by Siress View Post
                Don't try to force it out. Ideally, you'd use a torque limiting wrench at 45in-lb. If it doesn't come out, then try heating the screw itself with a butane or propane torch and try to loosen it again while it's still hot. When it doubt, over heat before you over torque. Anodizing is optional, threads are not. Penetrating fluid isn't a bad idea, but I don't think that's going to help here unless you're seeing signs of corrosion.
                Corrosion or not, penetrating oil can lower the force required by 70%.
                “It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.” -Krishnamurti

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by lew View Post

                  Corrosion or not, penetrating oil can lower the force required by 70%.
                  Source?

                  I also suspect that it will damage all rubber and plastic that it comes into contact with: o-rings, gaskets, cup seals, bolts, solenoids... I'd disassemble everything before squirting that into the ASA, and preferably run it through an ultrasonic cleaner with degreaser then detergent and rinse before reassembly.
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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Siress View Post

                    Source?

                    I also suspect that it will damage all rubber and plastic that it comes into contact with: o-rings, gaskets, cup seals, bolts, solenoids... I'd disassemble everything before squirting that into the ASA, and preferably run it through an ultrasonic cleaner with degreaser then detergent and rinse before reassembly.
                    Source was some machinists publication and that's all I remember. And yes, that stuff will destroy any rubber and urethane seals. Ultrasonic cleaning's a bit excessive, though, and many ultrasonic cleaning solutions will eat aluminum. A simple rinse in alcohol will suffice.
                    “It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.” -Krishnamurti

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                      #11
                      I will do some more testing. Can't confirm if red loctite or not. But it's pretty damn snug, so guessing so. I will try the boiling water trick first.
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                        #12
                        Starting to think it's rust and not loctite. Time for some WD-40
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                          #13
                          Update:
                          It was rusted. WD-40 soak + ratchet + vice grip = came out smooth as butter.
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                            #14
                            Excellent! Be sure to treat that body to a dip in some ~30% citric acid to dissolve any remaining rust.
                            Paintball Selection and Storage - How to make your niche paintball part idea.

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