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Brass work help

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    Brass work help

    Hey guys. I was asked to take a stab at repairing my nephews trombone he let the slide get all rusty and crappy, so it was dragging, and he broke this slide handle.

    They figured I could use a soldering iron to fix it, which I know I cant.


    I was going to go to home depot, and get lead free silver solder for plumbing, flux, a pocket torch, and some emry cloth.

    After some ypu tube research I see that q propane pocket torch likely wont melt silver solder, but I also figure with the thin walls it may work.

    On the bright side, if I wreck it they said I can havcait for making loudner.


    So how would you go about trying to repair? Should I order solder vs trying plumbing solder?
    https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...khaus-feedback

    #2
    This thread is worthless without pics ehh?
    https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...khaus-feedback

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      #3
      So…you were trying to fix a rusty trombone?….🤪



      ok, so I would order a thin silver solder so it’s easier to work with….unless you want to trash it and sent me the end of the trombone so I can use it to make a ridiculously obnoxious single shot
      JeepDVLZ45's Feedback

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      • JeepDVLZ45

        JeepDVLZ45

        commented
        Editing a comment
        Also, I am a big proponent of using low-ish temp solder and a heat gun. It heats much slower, but it eliminates the potential to burn the flux.

      • BrickHaus

        BrickHaus

        commented
        Editing a comment
        Ill hit amazon for some silver solder, but thats just it. There's so many variances even for jewelers solder.

        Id like to get it fixed. Itll boost my confidence to do hot work on my guns if I succeed.

        Plus hes on his last trimester of middle school and his mom said she would upgrade his trombone for high school, so its only gotta last a trimester, and Ill be able to get it back.

        My plan was the ridiculous blunserbuss too. Maybe i will send it your way.

      • JeepDVLZ45

        JeepDVLZ45

        commented
        Editing a comment
        I’ll send you the link on what I use in a PM

      #4
      don't go crazy with the heat and remember that solder itself is very soft and weak. thinnest necessary layer of solder will be the strongest, use more solder and joint just becomes structurally weaker. i use MAPP for soldering brass and copper but heat gun and low melt solder will work fine.

      if you can sweat copper pipes you can handle this.

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        #5
        Propane will work, but Mapp is faster, and oxy acetylene is obviously the fastest.
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        • JeeperCreeper

          JeeperCreeper

          commented
          Editing a comment
          The solder home depot carries usually has a melting point of 460*F

        #6
        I took some lead free solder I had, and my wife's stained glass soldering iron. Cranked the iron to 540, fluxed, and got this.. it aint the prettiest, it aint the worst I've seen, but it seems strong enough to last the kid a trimester.

        I didn't think it would bind but it did. Color me surprised.

        Thanks all.
        https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...khaus-feedback

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          #7
          Rusty? Nothing on it should be rusty. It's all brass and nickel.

          Depending on the age of that thing, the nickel plating may have worn from the mouthpiece. If it has, look into getting it replated. The brass used in nearly all brass instruments is leaded.
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          • BrickHaus

            BrickHaus

            commented
            Editing a comment
            Rusty trombone is a.... lets say urban dictionary term..you are welcome to look that up on your own. Haha there was some rust on the slides though, or at least orangish corrosion on the nickel. Nothing a little soap band scour pad didn't work off though.

          • Brokeass_baller

            Brokeass_baller

            commented
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            Lol. I'm familiar with the term. I just thought maybe you were being serious in your original post.
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