Removing Cerakote

[superman]

Anyone have experience removing cerakote?


The quick searching i have done seems to point to media blasting. I would like to preserve the anodizing if i can but really my concern is the threads as those are also covered.

[Lt. head-shot]

Proper application of Cerakote involves some sort of media blasting/sanding, so the ano underneath is likely already lost unfortunately. You might be able to scrape away with a pick in the threads, but I'm sure it would be quite tedious.

[DocsMachine]

Cerakote (and similar) are basically epoxy coatings, either oven cured or chemical cure. One thing you might try is the same trick for removing powdercoating- find some of the old, full-power methylene-chloride paint stripper, and soak the part.

And I mean soak- immerse it if you can, or find a small ceramic dish or tray (not plastic) that you can fit the part into, and cover liberally with the stripper. Once well-slathered, cover the works with some kind of lid- also not plastic- in order to keep the fumes in, and to keep it all from drying out.

And leave the whole mess to sit, periodically slathering on fresh stripper. Keep it somewhere warm, but not hot.

Powdercoat usually takes several days in my experience, before it's soft enough to scrape. And often a couple more after that to get everything in the nooks and crannies.

I don't honestly know if that'll work on Cerakote, but I do know it won't affect the anodizing. That's the first thing I'd try before anything drastic.

You might also call the manufacturer, and see what they recommend.

Doc.

[superman]

I appreciate the response. Thought about sending you a pm. I figured you would know.

I do have some jasco paint stripper. I will see if I can toss a test part in a container for a few days and see what happens.

[Grendel]

Like Doc said you can use Powder Coat stripper but straight acetone will work as well (I've used both on real firearms). The better it was applied the harder it will be to get off (longer time in the bath). It should not have a huge affect on the threads themselves but may ruin type II anodization's appearance. Patience is the key to getting it off. On harder surfaces then aluminum media blast is the better method but something relatively soft like what our markers are made of I would just put in a bath of acetone and forget about it for few days.

[superman]

I may give the acetone a shot first. seems like the less aggressive approach.

[Ecapnation]

Worth also giving MEK a try..... I stripped epoxy primer from a micro mag using that

[DocsMachine]

Both acetone and MEK might be easier to find than real MC paint stripper these days.

On the container, don't use something you'll ever use for cooking/eating- my trick has been to hit up secondhand stores for used, cheap, bakeware. You'll want something ceramic or stainless steel- for a while there, I had a ceramic meatloaf sized dish with a clear glass lid that was perfect for this. Could fit anything up to a full-size 'Cocker body even with the feed neck.

Acetone or MEK would need to be 'refreshed' more often than the stripper, since the lid won't seal perfectly.

Let us know how it works out!

Doc.

[superman]

I will be sure to check out the local 2nd hand store on the way home.
Working on a lcd angel so fingers crossed.

[Grendel]

You can use LDPE (4) or HDPE (2) for acetone as long as it is not for long term storage but acetone will eventually degrade the plastic (weeks). LDPE/HDPE is the material used in most dispensing bottles for acetone (as well as other chemicals). Stainless steel is my go to for this type of thing. If you can not find something you like at the 2nd hand store try a restaurant store many have used/re-stocked items. I use a couple of stainless chafing dishes with covers I got from SC State Surplus years ago.