newbie question: barrel orings?

[ramagupa]

wondering what size/material for good barrel orings that go on the barrel back for screwing the barrel in. i have some tank orings but they dont stretch very well. also have an oring on the barrel now but it gets sandwiched too much and starts to stretch around the barrel

thanks guys

[flyweightnate]

Normal buna is typically fine, but each barrel uses its own size. I rarely use orings on a cocker barrel, and I think 017 or 018 are pretty good sizes for most other barrels.

[Cunha]

There should not be an o ring sandwiched between your barrel and your breech.

the barrel should bottom out on the inside breech. When you soften that connection with an o ring up at the front of the breech, it makes it much easier to cause damage to the interface

if there’s an o ring channel in the barrel that would go inside the breech to help center things or whatever, any o ring that fits is good. Go to a local ACE hardware

[Chuck E Ducky]

Black bunna you can stretch them a lil if need be it’s not an exact science. I like to go with one a lil smaller then the barrel OD so it stays in place when you tighten the barrel against the body.

They keep the barrel from locking on by over tightening, makes a nice seal for efficiency, and keeps it from loosening up on you too.

[Jordan]

There should not be an o ring sandwiched between your barrel and your breech.

the barrel should bottom out on the inside breech. When you soften that connection with an o ring up at the front of the breech, it makes it much easier to cause damage to the interface

if there’s an o ring channel in the barrel that would go inside the breech to help center things or whatever, any o ring that fits is good. Go to a local ACE hardware

How would you damage the "interface"? I've been using an oring for years and nothing has damaged anything yet... conversely, I've seen people use Vicegrips to remove barrels that they overtightened.

[Cunha]

When you core sample and the barrel is only bottomed against a piece of rubber on the top radius, the end that is deep inside the gun can move sideways just a hair and it can smash into the side of the breech when the whole “interface” isn’t strong.

when it’s bottomed against the breech and all the threads are pre loaded, it doesn’t have anywhere to go. From tip to back the force can go into the gun body directly and the threads being pre loaded are all able to give the most strength possible to keep that barrel in line.

I don’t make a habit of core sampling either. But I’ve seen damaged breeches and they were people who used O rings.

[flyweightnate]

Yeah, that's the difference between cocker threads and other barrels.

Spyder, Phantom, ICD, and some others all use a pretty loose fit, so the o-ring helps center the barrel and keep it from loosening (especially on blowbacks, which vibrate a bit more).

Typically, if there's a groove, I add an o-ring; if there's not, I don't.

[Cunha]

Agreed. If there’s a groove for an O ring I use an o ring. Like standard CCi barrels, spyder barrels.

Chuck, yeah that’s all true a hundred percent.

[Chuck E Ducky]

I feel like anytime you take a bad dive your taking a chance on damage. That’s part of the game. The oring when fitted just fills the void between the end of the threded part of the barrel and the beveled area of the body. Most all barrels come this way. I don’t know how well barrel threads seal the breach but a common thing in Xball/Mech is to loosen the barrel off the oring a turn chronograph then tighten it back up on the field it’s good for a 20-25fps cheat, and corner to corner your paint hits first because it’s moving faster. The points over 1/4-1/2 turn back it’s under chronograph. That’s why you see people people grabbing their barrel “to insure it’s tight” all the time It’s a habit formed from this exact thing.